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All

Getting alot of FTE's on my Mark II. Maybe 2-3 per 10 round magazine.
This makes a fun to shoot gun a bummer. Looking to replace my
recoil spring. To my knowledge it's never been replaced. Thinking
Wolff. Any other tips or recommendations?

Thanks

I'd try the extractor first, could be worn.

I agree with 'TG'....start with the extractor, also clean the chamber and the extractor slot real good..........and of course as they always say, start with the ammo and the magazine obviously..........
we've found over the years, in the case of 'rimfire', the ,main culprit is dirt (fouling), the simplist, easiest and cheapest thing to do first............themn try other ammo, and adjust the magazine if needed or try another one.......

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Dan

NRA Benefactor

Replacing the recoil spring (assembly) is the last thing I would try. If you really want to replace the recoil spring--don't. Just replace the whole assembly. It's less than 15 bucks from Ruger sports. You really don't want to go thru the hassle of just trying to replace the spring.

But you need to try the above fix's first. I fixed my stovepipe FTE problems (after trying everything that others suggested) by slightly moving the ejector a little in more towards the chamber. But replacing the extractor usually fix's stovepipes.

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More is better but many is great.

After a nice thorough cleaning I ran 100 perfect rounds through my
Mark II.Thanks for all the insight guys.

On a blow-back action like the Ruger auto pistols, the extractor doesn't "pull" the fired case from the chamber... the gas pressure pushes the case (and the bolt) to the rear. The extractor is there to hold the rim of the case while the ejector "flips" it outward. As mentioned, a bad extractor usually results in a stovepipe, although this can sometimes be attributed to a cockeyed or loose ejector.

The extractor's other job is to pull an unfires round from the chamber.

As you discovered, the most common fix it to clean the chamber thoroughly.... sometimes a light polishing is required as well.