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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 4:24 pm 
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Bearcat

Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 10:54 am
Posts: 11
Location: Cicero, IL
I would like to remove the cylinder on my Ruger GP100 so I can hone the chambers using a drill press and a Flex-hone. Need information on how to remove the cylinder from the gun.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 5:39 pm 
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Buckeye
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Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 1:01 am
Posts: 1865
Location: Tabor City, NC.
Remove the grips , capture the main spring & remove the strut/spring assembly (I put black dots from a sharpie to keep it all oreinted) , pull trigger & remove hammer .

Now look down the hammer well & you`ll see a plunger .

It has to be pushed toward the muzzle while pulling the trigger group from the frame (some are very stubron, both plunger & trigger group). I make & sell a tool to faclitate removal , see it in Reoccuring items section under "Ruger Popper"

NOW IT`S VERY IMPORTANT NOT TO PULL TRIGGER WHILE REMOVING THE GROUP FROM THE FRAME OR WHILE IT`S OUT , PARTS WILL MOVE OUT OF PLACE & SPRINGS WILL EJECT.

Until ya become aquainted with how to dissamble the trigger group do it in a gal. ziploc bag .Your manual or plenty of sites with the diagram of the GP internals are at your disposal !!

I also suggest using a flap type (easily made with a wooden dowel) instead of a flex hone , the flapper will keep it all more square & even !!! Go slow & clean & oil often !!!

Oh yeah measure carefully !!!

There`s a member CAS that does it very reasonable using reamers , the best part is ya can do all the shipping usps & FRB since the cyl. is`nt serial #ed !!!

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:43 pm 
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Hawkeye
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Location: So. Florida
Removing the crane and cylinder from the gun is easy as it is one of the major assemblies designed to come out of the gun. There are videos and instructions on how to do that. But if you want to take the ejector and cylinder off the crane that is a different story as they are captured by several small pieces that are not easy to disassemble and even harder to re-assemble. It's not impossible if you have three hands. At least that's what I have been told. Here is an article that briefly describes the procedure. 8) 8)

http://www.milesfortis.com/guests/mcump/mc06.htm

quote> One task, seldom undertaken and rarely necessary, is removal of the cylinder from the crane assembly. Since this involves removing the frame latch and the ejector rod, it is a scary proposition until actually undertaken. Then, like most of the Ruger processes, it becomes transparently easy. After either removing the grips or the entire crane assembly, observe the relatively large hole in crane in front of the cylinder. Stick a small tool-( I used a large caliber, unbent paper clip) into this hole and depress. Then shove the through-pin out of the side of the frame and start picking parts out. This single pin, visible with the crane /cylinder assembly locked in battery retains the latch, the ejector rod and they cylinder itself. Everything goes back together in reverse and just won’t fit if you put them pointed the wrong way. <end

...Jimbo

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:42 am 
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Bearcat

Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 10:54 am
Posts: 11
Location: Cicero, IL
Jimbo357mag wrote:
Removing the crane and cylinder from the gun is easy as it is one of the major assemblies designed to come out of the gun. There are videos and instructions on how to do that. But if you want to take the ejector and cylinder off the crane that is a different story as they are captured by several small pieces that are not easy to disassemble and even harder to re-assemble. It's not impossible if you have three hands. At least that's what I have been told. Here is an article that briefly describes the procedure. 8) 8)

http://www.milesfortis.com/guests/mcump/mc06.htm

quote> One task, seldom undertaken and rarely necessary, is removal of the cylinder from the crane assembly. Since this involves removing the frame latch and the ejector rod, it is a scary proposition until actually undertaken. Then, like most of the Ruger processes, it becomes transparently easy. After either removing the grips or the entire crane assembly, observe the relatively large hole in crane in front of the cylinder. Stick a small tool-( I used a large caliber, unbent paper clip) into this hole and depress. Then shove the through-pin out of the side of the frame and start picking parts out. This single pin, visible with the crane /cylinder assembly locked in battery retains the latch, the ejector rod and they cylinder itself. Everything goes back together in reverse and just won’t fit if you put them pointed the wrong way. <end

...Jimbo


Thanks for the information

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