P345: Stainless Steel vs. Blued Alloy Steel?

I am going to buy a P345, but I haven't decided for sure which version to get (stainless steel or blued alloy steel). I read in the Ruger FAQ that stainless steel is "relatively more resistant to corrosion than blued steel". I also saw that it said stainless steel "surface discoloration and/or rust can occur as a result of perspiration, contact with some types of holsters and exposure to moisture, humidity, salt air or chemicals." It sounds like that either choice is good and they just need proper maintenance and it will last.

I like the appearance of the blued model better than the stainless, however if the stainless is proven to last longer and is more resistant to corrosion/rust it is worth the small increase in price. I live in the Seattle area, so humidity does play a small role (but not too much) in my decision. My questions are: 1. How much LESS resistant to corrosion/rust is the blued alloy steel version? and 2. What are the known pros and cons for each version?

I appreciate the insight.

Colby, If there is any chance that corrosion might be a problem I would go with the stainless. The black finish Ruger uses on their carbon steel slides isn't much protection at all. One time I got a bit of rain in the holster with my P95 when I was outside. I forgot to tend to the gun when I got home and when I thought to do it a week or so later rust pitting was already developing on the slide. I normally keep the exterior of that gun wiped down with oil and yet one exposure to rain started corrosion.

Thanks, Ferguson. I appreciate your input on this. I have done a bit more reading since my initial post and it sounds like there are a number of strikes against blued steel. I have read a lot of people saying that not only does it rust more easily, but that blueing also tends to wear off over time (from going in and out of a holster, etc.). I have also seen where people say even if stainless does develop rust or discoloration it is much easier to remove/correct than with blued steel.

So, in the case where corrosion is even a possibility are there any pros (other than cost) for choosing blued steel over stainless steel?

Stainless is more shiny and can making shooting in bright light more difficult. Ruger stainless is fairly matte and I don't think it would cause any significant problems here. Personally I like the way blue or black wears with age. It gives the gun character. If you shop around you can probably get a stainless 345 for the price of a blue one.

It gets warm here in Texas, and things get sweaty, so I much prefer stainless (or something like Glock's tennifer treatment) for it's better resistance.

I used to own all stainless.
Now I am back to blue, yes it wears faster, and you have to keep some
oil or wax on it, but the ruger "plum" blue I like against a black frame.
To me stainless has become a bit boring.
Since I ain't carrying it as a duty gun, it makes no difference which
to get.

I agree the stainless is better for some issues. I got the blackened slide because I thought it might conceal a little better, but I was really looking for an excuse because I just prefer the look. I figure at some point I may have to have it recoated, but I don't have a problem with that, and it doesn't show wear in over a year of holster play, I mean practice, so it will be a while.

If you get one, don't hesitate to get the Pachmeyr grip. It is incredible how good the P345 feels with one. I have the XD model which works great. The Hogue, imho, is too slippery. The pach has a more textured surface in the palm area and is more slip resistant.

I am still leaning toward stainless despite the fact I like the blued appearance better. Living in a place where it rains well over a third of the days each year (along with over two thirds of the days each year being cloudy) gives plenty of opportunity for corrosion. It seems like both options have a risk of rust/corrosion, but the chances are less with stainless and easier to deal with if it does happen. No matter which version I choose I will just need to take good care of it to prevent the chances of rust/corrosion. I even e-mailed Ruger to see what their input would be, and they pretty much just quoted their online FAQ and told me it is really my choice which is best (see below).

RESPONSE FROM RUGER: "Firearms made of stainless steel are more resistant to corrosion than blued steel firearms; however, surface discoloration and/or rust can occur as a result of perspiration, contact with some type of holsters and exposure to moisture, humidity, salt air or chemicals. Exposed surfaces of the firearm should be cleaned and lightly oiled after use or after exposure to adverse conditions. The pros and cons would be a matter of preference on each different model. I would recommend you find which pistol best suits you, for your needs."

I think if it will be a carry gun, stainless will hide holster wear better, and in general will maintain its looks longer. At least that was my thinking. I love my 345, the softest shooting 45 I ever fired.

Ruger's stainless is tough. I have been carrying a stainless Sr-9 IWB for the best part of a year without a prob. Usually I rust a gun during the hot summer months down here in VA. The previous summer I got a nice case of rust going on a "blackened stainless" Smith M&P 9mm........ I am pretty impressed with Ruger's stainless. Blued steel plus sweat equals a rust bunny.

Well... if appearance is the priority, blued steel may get the nod.
But if function is the priority, stainless alloys have the clear advantage.

This ain't no museum piece.

As the P345 pistols are designed for dependability for a killing cartridge, serious anti-personnel dependability means functionality. Stainless alloys combined with indestructible polymers means it can take much, much more bad weather, body sweat and exposure/chemical abuse and keep on operating, while keeping a decent appearance for your investment.

Mr. Obvious strikes again!

Well, if you are going for function over form, ask anyone that knows something about metal, and they will tell you to go with blued steel over stainless. Stainless is softer than the 4140 they make the blued out of. So from a pure functioning standpoint, blued is "better". I am a machinist by trade, and can tell you that the ONLY reason to use stainless steel over chromoly steel is for corrosion resistance. Stainless steel doesn't have any properties that make it better than 4140 steel other than that one, and has several that make it a worse choice. Take care of a blued gun, and it wont rust. (In the post above, getting it wet and leaving it in the holster for a week isn't taking care of it .)

Stainless is for people that either A: like the look, B: will have the gun in an eviroment where they simply CANNOT avoid getting the gun in the elements for long periods without the ability to strip and clean/oil it, or C: are lazy :lol:

If you like the look of blued, get blued. take care of it, and it will not rust.

Corrosion resistance was my point. Carbon steel in a corrosive environment is a much more-limited service (function) life fact.

Not sure about Utah, but summers in Charleston or the gulf coast will rust a blued gun in a weekend. Even ss alloys will show grey & red corrosion of course, albeit much slower. That is function advantage.

I dropped my SS Commander in a snowbank one night and didn't find it for a week. Wanna guess which parts were orange & pitted when I got it back? I had an Encore that rusted shut due purely to bringing it in from the barn (hunting season) for ONE night. Wanna guess which parts rusted from condensation? It wasn't the stainless parts.
My FIL replaced the carbon springs in his duty revolver on the FL west coast, as-required by his depertment. They learned about corrosion IRL.

Not everybody uses their guns for casual use only. Stainless does indeed give better functionality in many circumstances. That makes it better.

True one can invest in IVD and plated coatings for any carbon steels, but the same is a given for SS alloys.

Cosmetics aside, from a BSME in Aerospace & Energy Technologies perspective, I choose blued carbon steels for my non-man-purposed guns, and stainless for anything I could use in anger. 8)

I went with the stainless slide...for that matter, all of my sidearms are stainless. Since I planned to keep them forever, I choose that specifically for the better upkeep and corrosion resistance.

I ended up going with the stainless version. I only have 50 rounds through it, but so far so good. I am planning on putting more rounds through it in the next few weeks so I can get it dialed in. It definitely doesn't kick as hard as I expected a .45 to kick, but I am fine with that. Thanks for all of the input, everyone.

Why decide, just get both!

What kind of holsters are Ruger referring to in saying 'some types' may promote rust?

ClayinVA said:

What kind of holsters are Ruger referring to in saying 'some types' may promote rust?

Click to expand...

Leather.

Leather can absorb moisture from the air or your body, then later deposit it on your gun. Keep your gun well oiled and dont store it in the holster, and you will be fine. For my HD pistol that stays in the holster all the time, I got a nylon holster. Nylon is good so long as you keep it clean and dont spill stuff on it . Kydex is best in that area, no chance of a problem unless you put the gun away wet, and even then, the kydex isn't going to hold onto the moisture like leather and nylon would...

Thanks, good to know.. I have one leather holster and when I have left my P95 in it it seemed like the finish was duller when I took it out. This did not seem to happen when I had it in nylon. I will look for kydex for future purchases.

You guys must be "Sweat Hogs." Gun's 'n Sweat is all I read about anytime the question of blue vs. stainless is reaised. I generally do my sweating down out the gym. As for stainless weapons? I suppose if one wanted to go snorkeling in the ocean with his pet 1911, then sure, stainless. I've been messing with gun's and rifles since '65 and never saw the need for stainless anything, with the exception of tableware of course. :roll:


A.W.