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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 9:21 pm 
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Bearcat

Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2001 2:01 am
Posts: 51
Location: Houston, Texas, US
You did, I assume, a standard cleaning BEFORE you fired the first round from a NIB pistol. Taking any new small arm out of the factory box without cleaning, inspection and light lube to the range is the same as running a new car down the interstate without checking to make sure the crankcase has oil.

Enjoy your LCP! I just found a "Coyote Texas Edition" on sale no less at Academy. Looking forward to breaking it in tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 7:20 pm 
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Bearcat

Joined: Sun Nov 26, 2006 2:01 am
Posts: 30
Location: West Michigan, USA
I have a brand new LCP and it put smilys on my ammo too. The bullet is hitting the flat at the bottom of the feed ramp. I fixed the problem on my KT 3AT with a dremel and rounding off the flat, so the bullet slides all the way up and in. I'm leaving the LCP alone, as the smilys don't seem to affect accuracy and I haven't noticed any bullet setback.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 7:48 pm 
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Bearcat

Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2001 2:01 am
Posts: 51
Location: Houston, Texas, US
HIVO wrote:
Send it back. I think you will be pleased with Ruger's CS. That being said, you shouldn't need service on a new LCP. Whoever test fired the gun should be retrained!! My LCP is in the 373 serial # range and it has been flawless. If I ever buy a new pistol and have to do anything to make it shoot............... Ive got to calm down Im gittin mad, good luck hope it all works out!
HIVO


Agree 100%. I have sent new pistols back to S&W/Walther, Colt, Beretta and Ruger over the years. Each had "issues" and were repaired or replaced free. Working right is their responsibility. In addition the company knows its liability if, for example, a round goes off before it is fully chambered. The "smileys" mentioned could end up with a primer being struck with the slide out of battery. Dangerous.

Hope all goes well........I'm a Sturm Ruger shareholder. Dangerous products translate to poor stock performance.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 7:56 pm 
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Bearcat

Joined: Sun Nov 26, 2006 2:01 am
Posts: 30
Location: West Michigan, USA
The smiley is the result of the top round in the mag going forward under recoil and hitting the flat of the feed ramp on the barrel. Don't see how it would cause the round to go off.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 1:09 pm 
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Blackhawk
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2008 5:30 pm
Posts: 539
Location: Upper Himalayas
There is no association between the serial number prefix and the particular problem you are experiencing however the choice of ammo could be an influencing factor - I might have missed it but I didn't read where you identified the brand.

If you have not done so already, call Ruger in Prescott. More than likely they will issue you a prepaid mailing label and advise to send the gun back. Prescott's turnaround time is very fast normally. However.....may I suggest that before you do that, you ensure that the gun is sufficiently clean and lubricated and, I would give it another range test before opting to box it up. Tolerances on this gun are fairly tight particularly when new and it is not unusual for there to be something of a break-in period before things settle in. Not always but sometimes.

An excellent break-in lube for the rails and metal to metal contact points is Brian Enos' Slide Glide Lite, a low viscosity grease that stays put and is specifically designed for carry weapons - I have found over the years that it also reduces wear extremely well - and I highly recommend it for the LCP for the first hundred rounds or so (I have no business association with the company, just a user). And, don't be afraid to slingshot that slide (to chamber the first round) with "conviction." You are not going to hurt anything.

Finally, although you may not feel comfortable doing (or feel you should have to do), many LCP owners have benefited from a little light polishing of the barrel feed ramp and chamber (before the rifling begins) to enhance feeding and reliability. If done correctly, it is both easy to do at home and will in no way warm your weapon or void the warranty. If you are not comfortable doing/trying any of this and you continue to have a problem (and with a variety of factory ammo to rule out brand sensitivity), then the gun should be sent back to Ruger. As not to re-invent the wheel, here is a good "how-to" on LCP barrel polishing for those interested:

http://elsiepeaforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=838.0


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 10:15 am 
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Bearcat

Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2010 10:01 am
Posts: 4
Location: Goldsboro NC USA
Similar problem with mine. Bought it new a few months ago and hadn't fired anything in it but FMJ. So I got some American Eagle JHP's and it would stovepipe/double feed nearly every shot. Thought it might be an ammo issue so I got some Aquila JHP's. Same problem. Fires FMJ flawlessly.

Contacted Ruger and they sent me a UPS label to send it back.
It went out Thursday.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 5:07 am 
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Hunter

Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2003 1:01 am
Posts: 2546
Location: Indianapolis, IN
I bought my LCP in August of '09 (serial # 372-something), and I had the EXACT same issue/observasion. I use Winchester WWB 95gr truncated FMJ. When chambering a round, if I let go the slide fast, let fly home, it would go without hitch. But if I let it return slowly, the bullet head would get stuck on the feed ramp...

I switched to Wolff 12# extra power recoil springs, and it solved the problem. Ruger's factory recoil springs weight is 9#, and Kel-Tec P3AT uses 11# springs. I was afraid that 12# might be too heavy, might give me stovepipes. It shoots beautifully, and the brass doesn't fly as far away as it used to (5 or 6 yards away) now...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 9:29 am 
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Single-Sixer

Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2008 9:48 am
Posts: 381
Location: FL
doublebarrel_2 wrote:
I bought my LCP in August of '09 (serial # 372-something), and I had the EXACT same issue/observasion. I use Winchester WWB 95gr truncated FMJ. When chambering a round, if I let go the slide fast, let fly home, it would go without hitch. But if I let it return slowly, the bullet head would get stuck on the feed ramp...

I switched to Wolff 12# extra power recoil springs, and it solved the problem. Ruger's factory recoil springs weight is 9#, and Kel-Tec P3AT uses 11# springs. I was afraid that 12# might be too heavy, might give me stovepipes. It shoots beautifully, and the brass doesn't fly as far away as it used to (5 or 6 yards away) now...


In general, with any semi-auto pistol, it's best to not "ride the slide" when chambering a round and let the full strength of the spring and mass of the slide chamber the round.

-JT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 5:44 am 
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Hunter

Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2003 1:01 am
Posts: 2546
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Grendel wrote:
In general, with any semi-auto pistol, it's best to not "ride the slide" when chambering a round and let the full strength of the spring and mass of the slide chamber the round.

-JT


You are right. I was saying that, for the LCP with the original factory springs, one has to be really snappy with the slide when chambering the first roung in a slingshot way. If the bullet head touches the feed ramp before you release the slide, it'd get stuck, with full strengh of the springs...


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