Carryhawk issue.

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gasmandave

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Just bought a Carryhawk. Went to take the yellow disc out and had a difficult time getting the cylinder pin out. Finally after jiggling it it came out but with great difficulty. Then the loading gate would not open. After fiddling with it it opened. Rolled the cylinder out remove the yellow disc and put the cylinder back in. Now the pin would only go in about a third of the way. Again, fiddling and jiggling it went in almost all the way but lacked about a sixteenth of on inch to lock and that was it. Now it won't move either in or out, the loading gate won't open and hammer won't cock or cylinder turn.

Needless to say it's enroute back to Ruger.

I was very shocked with the problem out of a new revolver from Ruger. Hope they get it fixed and returned quickly.

Anyone have any similar circumstances?

Maybe it was a knock off from China.
 
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Did you thoroughly clean it after you took the cylinder out? For me, new from factory guns get taken apart and cleaned before I do anything else. It could be that there was gunk from the factory binding things up and a good cleaning, with brake cleaner sprayed in the action/loading gate area might have cleared up the problem. But it is your firearm to determine what steps you take to rectify the (perceived) problem.
 

gasmandave

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No, I didn't clean it. I felt that as I couldn't take it apart it was messed up worse than just gunk.
I couldn't even get the cylinder pin back in or back out.
 

DHD

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No sarcasm intended, but the pin was in when you took it from the box. With the likelihood of something in the way (small piece of trash, metal shavings, etc) I would clean out the cylinder pin hole and and at the rear of the cylinder frame at minimum. Something is in the way now that wasn't there before. With the cylinder out, does the pin go all the way in, if it does, the restriction is in the cylinder, if it doesn't go in it's at the rear of the frame. Much easier to see what is going on with the cylinder out too. I can and do understand your frustration, but clean that thing before you box it back up and send it off.

From your post, I would assume the loading gate is stiff. For the many BH's I purchased new, the loading gates don't get "right" until some use. In truth, when I get a new one, it comes apart to the smallest piece and polished (the loading gate spring is one of these things that gets a polish for smoother opening). I won't say that I find metal shavings, but I do always find sharp edges from machining. Those get taken care of too during the action/trigger job. Many don't know how to or don't wish to take one apart to do this. I always consider a new BH a beginning of a project and will always change springs, sights, grips, and throats if needed.

Editted: I went back and re read your post and see where you've already sent it back to Ruger. That will work too. No, it wasn't made in China, just made without much individual attention by assemblers.
 

gasmandave

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DHD said:
No sarcasm intended, but the pin was in when you took it from the box. With the likelihood of something in the way (small piece of trash, metal shavings, etc) I would clean out the cylinder pin hole and and at the rear of the cylinder frame at minimum. Something is in the way now that wasn't there before. With the cylinder out, does the pin go all the way in, if it does, the restriction is in the cylinder, if it doesn't go in it's at the rear of the frame. Much easier to see what is going on with the cylinder out too. I can and do understand your frustration, but clean that thing before you box it back up and send it off.

From your post, I would assume the loading gate is stiff. For the many BH's I purchased new, the loading gates don't get "right" until some use. In truth, when I get a new one, it comes apart to the smallest piece and polished (the loading gate spring is one of these things that gets a polish for smoother opening). I won't say that I find metal shavings, but I do always find sharp edges from machining. Those get taken care of too during the action/trigger job. Many don't know how to or don't wish to take one apart to do this. I always consider a new BH a beginning of a project and will always change springs, sights, grips, and throats if needed.

Editted: I went back and re read your post and see where you've already sent it back to Ruger. That will work too. No, it wasn't made in China, just made without much individual attention by assemblers.

Not sure but if I bought a brand new BMW or Mercedes Benz i wouldn't expect to have to take it apart to clean it to make it drive down the road.
 

Big Old Boy

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Just saying, you did not buy a $60,000 gun. I would have done the same as you, send it back.
 

eveled

Hawkeye
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Apr 3, 2012
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You can't compare guns to cars. The user is expected to maintain their own gun. Cleaning is easier than sending it back which is why it was recommended. I'm sure it will be fine when it comes back.
 

gasmandave

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eveled said:
You can't compare guns to cars. The user is expected to maintain their own gun. Cleaning is easier than sending it back which is why it was recommended. I'm sure it will be fine when it comes back.


True, can't compare cars and guns. But both should work right out of the box. Car doesn't work take it in for repair. I should have been able to at least shot it once or twice before having to get into the internals.
If you buy a gun and have to break it down and clean the internals before you do anything else then I guess you've been buying poor quality manufactured guns. I would think better of Ruger than that. I bought many Ruger's both new and used, all have functioned as expected accept this one. A fluke for sure and one that slipped by quality control.

Anyone that breaks down and cleans a brand new pistol not just wipe it down and oil it is well...."OCD".
 

Ugly Hombre

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Aug 2, 2014
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In the past- another country.
all the gun companies seem to have QC issues those days, I bought 2 .45 ACP New Vaquero birds heads. 1st one stainless was like a custom shop gun- fantastic!

2nd one was like it was made in china by opium addicts, out of time, huge cylinder gap- etc, scratched the hades out of the cylinder from the get go- etc.

I also bought a S/A mil-spec that the front sight fell off.

Never heard of any guns leaving the factory like that when I was a kid- even the cheaper ones.

buy from a internet vender- you are taking a chance.
 

hittman

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gasmandave said:
If you buy a gun and have to break it down and clean the internals before you do anything else then I guess you've been buying poor quality manufactured guns.

I thought that too until I bought my first ever AR-15, a Ruger.

I took it straight out of the box and to the range.

Nope ...... won't feed right, won't eject right, etc. Never got more than 3 shots in a row without a failure. :evil:

Members here told me to disassemble, remove the packing grease and anything else, make sure the gun is "wet" and try again. Back to the range I went, and it worked perfectly. :oops:
 

gasmandave

Single-Sixer
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Feb 26, 2010
Messages
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South Carolina
Got the pistol back today.
Ruger replaced the cylinder pin and spring for the loading gate.
They also said if the cylinder pin isn't fully seated when you try to cock the hammer the transfer bar will come up under the firing pin and lock up the pistol. Never heard of that but it is what it is. At least I've got my pistol back!
 
Joined
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Oregon City, Oregon
Hope this works out for you.

Also, there are actually very close tolerances between the pin, the frame, and the cylinder. Everything can seem in order, but the pin sometimes wont go through the cylinder. Just the slightest little misalignment can allow the bin to start, but then bind to a halt. No amount of further manipulation will allow the pin to pass. At this time I start over, allowing the cylinder to find it's own happy position while I'm pushing the pin in.

I can cause any of my Blackhawks to fight me, and not allow the pin pass through. Find the sweet spot, and the pin will almost fall through on its own. 8)

If you were to look at either the base pin or the center hole in a Ruger SA cylinder with a magnifying glass, you'd likely see radial tool marks. On a tight fit, these tool marks do cause interference. Time is well spent by gently polishing and lubricating the base pin as well as the center hole of the cylinder, without removing any measurable material.


gasmandave said:
Anyone that breaks down and cleans a brand new pistol not just wipe it down and oil it is well...."OCD".

Then I am OCD. Actually, CDO. The letters must be in alphabetical order. :wink:

My good Army Ordnance training taught me to break everything down for cleaning and inspection prior to releasing it to the troops. Guns are now made by machines and monkeys and I don't trust either, regardless of the manufacturer.
 

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