Bearcat-.22 Long Rifle to .22 Magnum?

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Muley Gil

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I was able to just slip the twist end of a #2 drill bit into the muzzle of my Bearcat. I should be good to go for magnum ammo. I got another cylinder from a forum member. Now I need to rent a reamer and get this project done. :)
 
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If it were me, I'd carefully check the shank on that #2 bit with a mic. Why do this? Just to be sure we're all on the same page. I do know for certain that some inexpensive drill bits can be "less than perfect".

JMHO :wink:
 

Hondo44

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Muley Gil said:
I was able to just slip the twist end of a #2 drill bit into the muzzle of my Bearcat. I should be good to go for magnum ammo. I got another cylinder from a forum member. Now I need to rent a reamer and get this project done. :)

Bravo, anxious to hear how happy you are with it!
 

Armybrat

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Feb 22, 2007
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Here is my new Bearcat. It will remain as a .22lr. 8)

E4101-ECF-E7-B7-42-BE-B56-B-526-FEE6-E8387.jpg
 

foxtrapper

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Apr 30, 2008
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Armybrat said:
Hondo44 said:
Armybrat,

That's nice, still has the 4" barrel.
Actually it is a 3.5" barrel.

Oddly enough, the stainless Shopkeeper barrel is 3" according to the catalog. Who knows why the difference?
Seems folks with the ss 3" have to pick out the empties,the extra 1/2" in blue solves that. I'm waiting for the unfluted 3 1/2" in stainless!!
 

daveg.inkc

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Hondo44 said:
The Long Rifle bore (diameter of the lands) is .222"; the WMR is .224".

A #2 drill is .221" at the cutting end and a more accurate test. And check your drill bit with a dial caliper or a micrometer. Recognize the shank of the drill bit is smaller than the actual cutting edges, so use the cutting end of a new drill.

The 7/32" (.219") drill bit is too small to discern the difference in bore sizes. It will enter a clean .222" bore.

Bearcats were introduced in 1958 so those produced before 1960 likely have LR only bores; #s A001 thru X453, and possibly later. I don't have one that early to confirm.

Super Bearcats introduced 1970 (all steel except trigger guard until 1973) all have the .224" bore.

The Single Six LR only .222" bores ended at ~ #150,000 in 1959.

All Lightweight Single Sixes have .222" bores thru #212,530 when they ended production in 1959. The S (seconds) model Lightweights assembled in 8/64 and 4/65 are all numbered below #212,530 and may have either bore because they were assembled later.
. Jim, I wish you were closer, I have an Alpha Cat you could measure bore. I really want a .22 M in a Bearcat. I handled a Wrangler, bronze finish. Then dealer layed a 1959 Single Six Magnum on glass counter. I bought the 1959 Ruger. I would rather have the early Rugers, they all shoot great for me. Character, with a solid feel.
 
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foxtrapper said:
Seems folks with the ss 3" have to pick out the empties,the extra 1/2" in blue solves that. I'm waiting for the unfluted 3 1/2" in stainless!!

On my Shopkeeper, I turn the cylinder ever so slightly when ejecting empties. This allows the ejector rod to gain purchase on the mouth of the cartridge case, and push it out that way. Works great for me, on my revolver.

As long as the ejector rod has a straight 90-degree cut on the end, it should work. If the end of the ejector rod has been chamfered or tapered, this is not likely to work as well, if at all.

Personally, I don't care for the looks of the Birdshead's "crescent" style ejector rod head. While not a deal breaker, I also don't find it very comfortable in use.

I have an extra stainless ejector rod here (Thank You, RF Classifieds!). I plan to trim that to length, and install it on my Birdshead. As long as I leave the trimmed edge square and sharp, I should have no problem ejecting empties by the using the case mouth.

Hmmm... maybe I should see if a Bullseye or other style ejector rod is available. Some of my New Model Single-Sixes have an ejector rod head that somewhat follows the contours of the barrel and ejector rod housing. A little bit nicer looking, just a subtle detail to the discriminating eye.

Or, I could just go shoot some more tin cans with it, just the way it is! :p
 

Armybrat

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Yeah, the crescent-shaped ejector rod head (designed to slide over the cylinder pin) seems flimsy and is kind of ugly. Ruger could have enclosed the forward end, making it cup-shaped like half a thimble.
I hadn't thought of changing to another ejector rod.
 
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I'm thinking of having a Bearcat, bored to 22 magnum. BUT... with the wrangler coming out, it might be a better culprit to to have bored to 22 magnum. Does anyone have any pro's or con's they can give me to help me decide?
 

Hondo44

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BP Jack,

I have an original Lightweight Single Six. This was a 1st variation Lightweight in filthy, sorry shape with virtually no finish left when found and won it on Gunbroker for $195. The original Martin Hardcoat alloy cylinder was apparently replaced with a steel cylinder when it was retrofitted with a transfer bar safety by Ruger. The bottom of the main frame is stamped with an 'R' under the grip frame. I re-converted back with OM action parts. It took me extensive flat polishing to realign seams and remove dings.

orig.jpg


I took a spare OM fluted Mag cyl (shown above), fit it to the frame, and have shot it over 10 years now with no ill affects to the alloy frame. Rather than go thru the work/expense of reaming the cyl, I'd pick up an OM mag cyl if you like a fluted cyl, or a post 1976 NM mag cyl if you like non-fluted and fit to the Wrangler frame. Then you'd have a convertible Wrangler.

I'd also install a standard NM trigger/hammer w/o the voids of the MIM hammer and trigger. And install a NM steel XR3 grip frame or OM alum alloy XR3 size grip frame to replace the zinc GF (the OM alloy GF will need the trigger slot widened for the NM wide trigger and the cyl stop spring hole drilled).
 

Hondo44

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Armybrat said:
Yeah, the crescent-shaped ejector rod head (designed to slide over the cylinder pin) seems flimsy and is kind of ugly. Ruger could have enclosed the forward end, making it cup-shaped like half a thimble.
I hadn't thought of changing to another ejector rod.

The Colt .22 peacemaker ejector knob makes a nice replacement especially for the Ruger Bearcat, also the Single Six models. And you could drill out the back like a thimble as you mentioned. Shown on my Super Single Six .32 mag:

standard.jpg



For Ruger large frames or even the Single Six, I use the Colt SAA ejector (or one from the many clones is cheaper). On Vaq .45:

orig.jpg


And here's my method to get the Ruger's crescent button or Colt button to nest up tight under the barrel when at rest, instead of dangling like the Ruger crescent button. Because the Ruger housing slot is straight and not curved like Colt's, I corrected the way the crescent button, Ruger or Colt didn't tuck up tight against the barrel when at rest. It also works for the Ruger crescent button and old round button which also kind of dangles. It may not bother some owners but it's simple to do if it does.

I grind and polish a 'cam' curve in the end of the rod/button as shown below (Colts thread together, Rugers are riveted and may need slight re-peening). The curve must 'nest' or align with the curve of the housing attachment screw when the button is up tight against the barrel in a Ruger straight slot housing. The curved surface of the end of the rod contacts the screw under tension of the return spring and it will "nest" on the screw by "camming" or turning the rod and button tight up against the barrel. Works for the Colt 'bullseye' round ejector button as well.

orig.jpg
 
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