RugerForum.com

This is a Ruger Firearms enthusiast's forum, but it is in no way affiliated with, nor does it represent Sturm Ruger & Company Inc. of Southport, CT.
It is currently Sun Dec 15, 2019 7:26 am

All times are UTC - 7 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 23 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: What finish...?
PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2019 5:19 pm 
Single-Sixer

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 2:01 am
Posts: 115
Location: Dubuque IA USA
All or any of these will work and look good depending on your tolerance for detail.....although universally recommended, flattening the dried finishes between coats with very fine steel wool leaves broken iron fibers inside the wood pores which I can see and don't like. Strong magnets and blowing with air will reduce these but not eliminate.
Brownells product number 032-00-009, Dico Abrasive Wool-fine grey is better. It is about 360 grit and is the same as the Scotchbrite grey pads. Go very lightly to get the effect you like and with no shiney iron fibers locked inside the finish.
Pour your finish into small paper cups to avoid contamination of your bottle, same recommendation for bluing solutions.
I have used both Permalyn Sealer and Waterlox Origional on different individual shotgun stocks, both diluted 50/50 for deeper penetration of the waterproofing effect. Dilution may give a more level finish also if flattened between applications. Just double the number of applications to deposit the same amount of finish. It dries faster too but wait at least 24 hours.
I don't see any reason to wet sand revolver grip wood with dilute finish to fill the pores....a long process which I do for a glass smooth professional job on long guns. Revolver grips, you may want to have the extra texture left in place.
The Minwax Rub on Poly may be the most damage resistant, but I haven't tried it.

_________________
You can't hit 'em if you can't see 'em.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: What finish...?
PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2019 5:58 pm 
Single-Sixer

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 2:01 am
Posts: 115
Location: Dubuque IA USA
All of these are good and will work. I have used 50/50 dilutions of Permalyn Sealer or Waterlox Origional wet sanded in to fill the pores on shotgun projects. The dilution with Mineral spirits is said to increase penetration of the water resistance factor. Put on twice as many of these faster drying coats to get the same amount of finish built up. 24 hours minimum to dry.....there is no real hurry and you will enjoy doing it.
Although usually recommended to flatten the finish with very fine steel wool, if you examine closely you will leave shiney little broken iron fibers in the pores and elsewhere. Even strong magnets and forced air won't get them all off and they will be visible under the next coat.
Brownells has part number 032-000-009, Dico Abrasive Wool- fine grey works to avoid this. Go lightly and sparingly as it is about 360 grit, same as grey Scotchbrite.
Just like with bluing solutions, pour from the bottle into small Dixie Cups and discard the excess to avoid contaminating your main supply.
Revolver grips don't scream out for grain filling, and the texture may be helpful to our purpose. I do it though on long gun stocks even though it may take ten or twelve hours.
Waterlox Original diluted is what I used this year, but the Min Wax Wipe on Poly would be just as water resitant and perhaps more damage resistant on a revolver.

_________________
You can't hit 'em if you can't see 'em.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: What finish...?
PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 6:20 am 
Blackhawk

Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2003 1:01 am
Posts: 947
Location: NYS
Thanks Snakeeyes.... good info. I appreciate it.
J


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: What finish...?
PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2019 8:22 pm 
Single-Sixer

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 2:01 am
Posts: 115
Location: Dubuque IA USA
Cutting Tru oil or Waterlox sealer 50/50 with original mineral spirits probably enables the mixture to penetrate the microscopic gaps in the wood which is good. Just apply more coats, flattening the surface between treatments improves the outcome but I dont like to see the broken iron fibers shining back at me which is inevitable if using 0000 steel wool.
Brownell's has 3M Scotch brite "wool" which works better and also the 3M white pad towards the end.
Next I will try the Minwax Wipe on Poly which no one seems to dislike.
You should look up on Google a very simple and easy application using spray on original Armour All, wet, followed immediately with a small amount of full srengthTru Oil. Just rub it in with a pad or your fingers and in a minute, you will feel a chemical reaction occur which is sort of an enhanced drying effect. At that point rub to flatten with a clean cotton cloth. A few hours is enough time between passes. Six to eight successive coats over several days will give what I think is a perfectly lustered deep gorgeous finish which enhances the wood as well as working ten or twelve hours with Waterlox.
The technique sounds crazy, but some guitar makers are using it. It is easy and quick. I went to as many as ten coats on some practice wood which at that point, the finish began to look milky from deep down in. That many not necessary anyway.....probably incomplete drying between coats.

_________________
You can't hit 'em if you can't see 'em.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: What finish...?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 9:21 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Fri Apr 03, 2009 7:01 pm
Posts: 7233
Location: People's Republik of Kalifornia
Johnnu2 wrote:
Two good recommendations from guys who know what they're doing... thanks. p.s. does Tru Oil go bad? I have a spray-can of the stuff that must be 10+ years old.....


If the spray can nozzle wasn't cleaned before storage it may be plugged up. But if it sprays the true oil is still good.

Tru oil in the bottle must have the lid screwed on tight and be stored up side down or the air trapped in the top of the bottle will dry the surface of the contents.

If it's had too much exposure to air and gets tacky to where it doesn't dry, dump it. To prevent that, when using it don't leave the bottle open to use out of the bottle. Pour what you need out of the bottle into a dish or similar and close up the bottle.

_________________
Jim
Ruger single action "collector, accumulator, builder and shooter"
NRA Life
CRPA Life
CRPC Life
SASS Life
SWCA
RCA


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: What finish...?
PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2019 7:01 am 
Blackhawk

Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2003 1:01 am
Posts: 947
Location: NYS
Thanks Hondo appreciate the info.... as well as all the other great ideas. Coincidentally, I haven't been doing any 'finishing' since I posted that question in March; but just this week decided to strip and re-finish the J.C. Higgins .22 rifle that my father bought me back in the mid 1950's.... I did a botch job of it when I was a 'yewt'; and after all these years of feeling my hands get sticky on the old .22's stock, I decided to try and do it right this time.... you know, before the 'big round-up in the sky'. She shoots beautifully and I still take her out to the range a few times a year just to show the kids what a real .22 can do :-)))
THANKS ALL,
John


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: What finish...?
PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2019 2:53 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Fri Apr 03, 2009 7:01 pm
Posts: 7233
Location: People's Republik of Kalifornia
John,

You may be able to remove the stickiness with a wipe down using a little lacquer thinner or paint thinner on a lint free cloth like a piece of old Levi jeans. Or a good wipe down with toothpaste and damp cloth. Or even 0000 BRASS wool (not steel wool which will leave tiny metal fibers in the wood to later rust). You've got nothing to lose since you plan to refinish any way and the stickiness has to come off first and will not sand off. It just gums up the sand paper. Have fun!

_________________
Jim
Ruger single action "collector, accumulator, builder and shooter"
NRA Life
CRPA Life
CRPC Life
SASS Life
SWCA
RCA


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: What finish...?
PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2019 5:13 pm 
Blackhawk

Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2003 1:01 am
Posts: 947
Location: NYS
I've already got it stripped. Now I could use some thoughts on how to remove (or not) the discolorations that have permeated the wood. I've applied the stripper twice (used some light citristrip so as not to incur the wife's wrath). Then I wiped down with denatured alcohol (twice) and then washed with plain water and hung to dry. I don't want to sand if I don't have to... thought maybe bleach?? Or, just leave it alone and put some Tru-Oil, tung oil etc etc and be done with it. Here are some pics. Any thoughts greatly appreciate (Jim or anyone).... no biggie, after all it IS just a J.C. Higgins from Sears :-)
Image

Image

Image

FINALLY COMPLETED, used jacobean stain to cover the blotches somewhat and then Tru-oil (3 coats):
Image
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 23 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC - 7 hours [ DST ]


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group