5-Shot Conversion - Documented

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Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
3,205
I'm really enjoying this thread, thanks for taking time to post it.
Now about that cheap-ass made in China dti...........ah, never mind,
I have a couple of also.
Dave
 

Lee Martin

Hunter
Joined
Dec 18, 2002
Messages
2,313
Location
Arlington, Virginia
Step_20_Tagline.jpg


I start by rough facing the end of the barrel. This isn't the final end pass however; that'll come when I set the cylinder gap.

5_Shot_Build_128.jpg


A depth mic is used to measure the front of the frame to the cylinder face. This one mic'd 0.641". I'll turn the shank to that exact length, 0.690" o.d.

5_Shot_Build_129.jpg


5_Shot_Build_130.jpg


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Ruger frames are 24 tpi. Since Blackhawk barrel inlets are countersunk, there's no need for a relief cut before the shoulder. The depth of compound feed for a single form vee tool is 0.036". Total depth on the compound then equals ~0.072". This is a rough approximation though. Ultimately, the frame dictates how deep I'll have to go to obtain nice, tight mating.

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Using a cutting bit, I lathed off the first two threads. Otherwise, these would show through the frame window.

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Testing the frame on the threaded barrel - this one turned out perfect. It was snug but had no bind or tight spots.

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The forcing cone - there are a lot of theories around which style works best. The angle isn't an exact science, as long as it isn't too shallow or too steep. 5 to 15 degree cones work, but we normally use 11 degrees. I don't like deep forcing cones and I'm not a fan of throating. My throats are properly indicated and the cylinder is rigid in battery. Big forcing cones and free-bore only do two things well: 1) They correct poor alignment, and 2) They eliminate choke. My dad summed it up best. If the cylinder-to-bore alignment is dead nuts and the cylinder doesn't move, get the bullet into the lands ASAP.

The compound feed is moved to 11 degrees and a boring bar is mounted.

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A close-up of the shallow 11-degree cone prior to polishing. It was hard to take a crisp picture of it due to poor lighting, metal bits, and oil.

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The barrel is screwed into the frame and as expected, the shank just touched the cylinder face. I removed it and faced 0.002" off the end. The barrel was re-installed, verifying a 0.002" cylinder gap.

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Two things to note:

1) Since I haven't drilled the ejector hole or installed a sight, I'm not bound by thread timing. From what I understand, Ruger adds the front sight and drills the housing hole prior to final installation. If the thread timing isn't perfect, they're chasing TDC on the sight when torqueing. This is why barrel choke is so common in today's Blackhawks.

2) Step 19's barrel indication – again, if this is off, the threading and cone will show runout to the throat. Line-boring and line-indexing only work if the barrel is installed with precision alignment between the bore's axis and the frame inlet.
 

Lee Martin

Hunter
Joined
Dec 18, 2002
Messages
2,313
Location
Arlington, Virginia
Step_21_Tagline.jpg


Using the process described in step 19, the muzzle is indicated in the chuck. I marked 6.100" on the blank and cut it to length.

5_Shot_Build_143.jpg


The extra 0.100" is faced and a small crown is machined. On a bore this big, I don't usually lathe a wide, square crown. It just creates unsightly, thin sidewalls. Instead, a mild instep was made, which is plenty for this 500. It won't be bounced off rocks.

5_Shot_Build_144.jpg


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Before installing the ejector housing and milling the front sight, I'll test fire the gun. That'll happen this weekend with 505 gr LFNs of my design. These were cast on a Mountain mold and lubed with Alox. Alox may not be the prettiest lube, but it flows beautifully and stays put.

Casting_505_LFNs.jpg


I poured a few boxes of these on Sunday.

505_LFN_Box.jpg


505_LFNs.jpg
 

VernTMG

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 30, 2009
Messages
288
Location
Glendale, Az.
Lee I really look forward to this thread your doing thanks for sharing. Question are your revolvers for sale or just for a hobby?
 

Lee Martin

Hunter
Joined
Dec 18, 2002
Messages
2,313
Location
Arlington, Virginia
VernTMG said:
Lee I really look forward to this thread your doing thanks for sharing. Question are your revolvers for sale or just for a hobby?

Glad you've enjoyed it. We don't do gunsmithing as a business for a couple of reasons: 1) Dad and I don't hold an FFL, and 2) Our day jobs keep us plenty busy. Thanks for asking though.
 

Lee Martin

Hunter
Joined
Dec 18, 2002
Messages
2,313
Location
Arlington, Virginia
Step_22_Tagline.jpg


I didn't get a chance to shoot the gun last Saturday. But I did mill the front sight and install the ejector housing.
My eyes take to contrast between the rear notch and front blade. That's why I make my sights out of aluminum. I start by cutting a piece of aluminum square stock.

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The ends are faced in a Bridgeport.

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Using the same endmill, the sides are trimmed to form the blade.

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The rear portion is hogged out, setting the blade's length. Tilting the sight forward allows for the rear ramp to be milled.

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The barrel is 0.800" in diameter. Holding the sight vertically in a vise, the underside is radiused.

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Spotting the sight for the screw hole.

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The hole after drilling and recessing.

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The ejector housing is mocked on the barrel and the table is positioned. It's critical to have the ejector firmly pressed against the frame when you indicate the hole.

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Drilling and tapping for the ejector screw.

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Lastly, the front sight is positioned on the barrel. Once affixed, the table is moved until the sight touches the muzzle end. In the below photo, you'll see the barrel overhangs by about a 0.100". To remove this, the table is dialed to the left so the sight is flush.

5_Shot_Build_156.jpg


The table is locked and the hole is drilled and tapped. Later, the sight will be sanded to remove the machine marks. I'll also round the front edge on a belt sander.

5_Shot_Build_157.jpg


It'll go bang on Saturday. Using the 505 LFN, I'll try two loads - 14.0 of HS6 and 26.0 of H110.
 

Lee Martin

Hunter
Joined
Dec 18, 2002
Messages
2,313
Location
Arlington, Virginia
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The front sight was polished in three phases. The first was with 400 grit sandpaper. This removed the major machine marks, but left scratches. 800 grit paper knocked those down. Final polishing was done with Simichrome and steel wool.

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Lee Martin

Hunter
Joined
Dec 18, 2002
Messages
2,313
Location
Arlington, Virginia
Step_24_Tagline.jpg


With 800 grit sandpaper, I removed any scratches made during the build. For reference, a used piece of 800 approximates Ruger's brushed finish. All screws were secured with blue Loctite. A line was also placed on the underside of the ejector housing for added support.

The completed gun, which shot well on Saturday.

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BPGuy

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 2, 2017
Messages
224
Location
New Mexico
It's amazing how this went from raw materials and rough parts into such a fine, finished revolver.

Almost like magic!

Extremely well done, a revolver anyone would be proud to own.

Thank you for sharing this with us!
 

dingode

Single-Sixer
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
140
Beautiful! Please, if you do more projects post them again for us to enjoy and drool over.
 

David Bradshaw

Blackhawk
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
933
Arisin' Wind said:
Lee Martin said:
A line was also placed on the underside of the ejector housing for added support.

Lee, can you explain this a little more. I don't understand what you did.
*****

Arisen' Wind.... Lee refers to "a line" of strong Loctite between ejector rod housing and barrel.
David Bradshaw
 
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