10/22 won't eject shells

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dlbarr

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Messages
17
Don't know the year of mfr on this rifle, the SN is 112-......... and apparently is old enough to not have the warning on the barrel. What parts do I need to fix the problem & where should I buy them? Numerich, Brownell's, Midway, factory or ......??

Thanks for the input
 

hpman66

Hunter
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
3,807
My quick answer would be to install a Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor and to clean the chamber/barrel of the 10/22.
 

collectormzornes

Blackhawk
Joined
Oct 25, 2007
Messages
733
I recommend that you inspect the bolt face where the bullet case sets and make sure it is not filled with residue if so clean it because it can make it not seat properly and the extrcator not grip the ring of the case as it should. If that area is clear make sure the extractor functions properly by lightly pulling back on it and seeing if it returns to it's normal position. Do not pull back to hard as it may come out and send the spring flying across the room. If the extractor does not function like it should clean that area and check the spring to make sure it is not broke or missing. If none of the previous works it is time for a new extractor. You might post a pic of the bolt and some one might be able to tell from the pic as to what the problem is.
 
Joined
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10,426
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Collectormzornes is right.... the chamber maybe just gunked up.... the round is supposed to be ejected first 'naturally' from the power of the propellent... then as the bolt goes back the extractor actually grabs it and helps eject it 'out' of the receiver.
 
Joined
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9,933
Location
missouri
Specifically, does the rifle "not eject" or not extract. A 22 this old may be full of crud from firing. If the rifle has been "parked" for a while, this crud will harden. Carbon and powder fouling in the chamber can inhibit extraction resulting in the extractor slipping over the rim or maybe just slow bolt travel to the point that the case isn't ejected and remains held to the bolt by the extractor.
More detailed information is needed to determine the cause and resolution of the problem. Kind of like saying your car "won't go" doesn't get you a good fix.
 

dlbarr

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Messages
17
The bolt face, chamber and barrel are all very clean. The extractor does grip the case but the empty does not "fling out" the port - just stays gripped by the extractor. Haven't taken the bolt out yet to inspect anything else...
 

Precision32

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Messages
629
Location
Ocala, FL
Pull the bolt and make sure the rifle is completely clean. When you have the bolt in hand, check the extractor. The extractor should cam out 0.010" to 0.015" as you slip a round up under it. This gives the extractor some pre-load and holds the case tight to the bolt face until it hits the ejector and kicks it out of the ejection port.

If you don't get the cam out you can fit the extractor to the bolt by filing the inside of the extractor between the hook and the square lug at the other end.

There is no need to spend money on a new extractor.
 

dlbarr

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Messages
17
OK, so here's what's happening (the bolt is spit-shine clean):

I placed the safety on & removed the clip, held the gun vertical & muzzle up so that I could view the operation of the bolt. Loaded a round in the chamber and hand-cycled the bolt. The extractor pulled the shell back, the ejector however only very slightly contacted the the edge of the shell. Therefore, the shell is not hit with enough force in order to eject it out the port. The ejector certainly LOOKS OK but then, I'm not a gunsmith.

Next round of advice?
 

Precision32

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Messages
629
Location
Ocala, FL
Exactly what I posted before. The extractor does not pull the round out when you fire the round. The round is pushed out by the expanding gases from the powder. All the extractor does is hold the cartridge case tightly to the bolt face until the bolt recoils back far enough for the case to be hit by the ejector and kicked out the ejection port. From your description, the extractor IS NOT holding the case tight to the face of the bolt.
 
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
9,933
Location
missouri
The bolt should be run back "briskly" to achieve ejection. The back of the bolt makes contact with a crosspin which stops it's rearward travel. If you don't feel that contact distinctly, you didn't rack the bolt hard enough. Keep in mind, it doesn't take much force to fling an empty 22 case. I tinkered with a 10/22 that had a similar problem. The owner had "over thought" the recoil buffer idea and had placed a piece of plastic tubing over the crosspin. The plastic swelled enough to prevent the bolt from running far enough back to eject.
 

Precision32

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Messages
629
Location
Ocala, FL
We all have different experiences. I have run a 10-22 with a piece of 1/4" wood dowel. The bolt never hit the dowel shooting SV ammo.

The primary ejector of the 10-22 is the magazine. Specifically the bump out on the left rail. If the gun cycles far enough in recoil to pick up a new round it has traveled far enough back to properly eject the spent case.

I can shoot 22 Long in my 10-22s and the gun will cycle and eject every time. Velocity can mask a poorly fit extractor. A 22 should have a range of ammo of 250% between the minimum and maximum loads.
 

collectormzornes

Blackhawk
Joined
Oct 25, 2007
Messages
733
From what I am reading now it appears the issue may be that the ejector is wore down and not making good contact when the bolt and empty case comes back. I would also try another magazine if that is the magazine you have used for years and years it may help to replace it as I think it has something to do with the ejection also.
 

dlbarr

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Messages
17
Precision 32, in terms of filing the extractor, just how much should i start with? Is this something that has to be approached very cautiously or can I just dress it down a fair amount on the first go-round?

I realize that sometimes fitting requires removing & installing more than once. Just want to speed up the project if at all possible. Thanks
 

dlbarr

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Messages
17
Also, I forgot to mention: when I was cycling the bolt by hand, I noticed that there seemed to be a fair amount of clearance between the bolt and receiver. Given that, if I pushed the bolt over toward the "ejector side" of the receiver while cycling, the shell would easily eject. The receiver does not "look" worn, per se, but I again, I'm no gunsmith and haven't looked at many of these parts.

Thanks again.
 

Precision32

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Messages
629
Location
Ocala, FL
dlbarr said:
Also, I forgot to mention: when I was cycling the bolt by hand, I noticed that there seemed to be a fair amount of clearance between the bolt and receiver. Given that, if I pushed the bolt over toward the "ejector side" of the receiver while cycling, the shell would easily eject. The receiver does not "look" worn, per se, but I again, I'm no gunsmith and haven't looked at many of these parts.

Thanks again.

Understand that ordinance has some of the sloppyist fits of almost any machinery. It has to to assure that it will run even when dirty. Ever shake a 1911? If it doesn't rattle, I'm a little suspect of the gun. That rattle is why they run so reliably.

Your observation of your bolt/receiver and the fact that if you push the bolt towards the ejector and the case ejects confirms in my mind that the extractor is not fit proper. You're loading the extractor hook against the case when you push the bolt towards the ejector, making it hold the case tighter than it normal does.

I fit the extractor on every 10-22 I sell, along with the firing pin. I take the extractor and clamp it hook up in a small vice, making sure the space between the hook and lug clears the jaws of the vice. Using a small flat file I remove material at a slight angle, taking more off at the hook end and practically nothing at the lug end. Take off about the thickness of a business card, that's about 0.010". That's a good start.

Install the extractor back in the bolt and try putting a cartridge case up under it again. You should see the extractor move out and the case should snap up in place with some 'authority'. You can feel the click when the hook goes over center of the case.

As a caution, when you take the bolt apart, place it in a large plastic bag. The springs can find hiding places you never will. Don't ask me how I know this. :mrgreen:
 

Richbaker

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
640
Location
Tucson, AZ
Had to read that several times to realize you were taking material off the "arm" between hook and lug..... Pictures may help those that can't visualize what you are doing there.
 

Precision32

Blackhawk
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Jan 11, 2011
Messages
629
Location
Ocala, FL
All I can get is dial-up out where I live. Pictures and you-tube are a waste of time. A 2 minute video takes something like 3 hours to down load!
 

IADiver

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 16, 2013
Messages
1
Over the years my 10/22 would seem to not wanna kick 'em out consistently. I bought and installed a volquartsen extractor and have not had a problem since. I used to think it was the mag i was using. good luck
 

ElrodCod

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 17, 2007
Messages
105
Location
Rogersville, Tennessee
dlbarr said:
OK, so here's what's happening (the bolt is spit-shine clean):

I placed the safety on & removed the clip, held the gun vertical & muzzle up so that I could view the operation of the bolt. Loaded a round in the chamber and hand-cycled the bolt. The extractor pulled the shell back, the ejector however only very slightly contacted the the edge of the shell. Therefore, the shell is not hit with enough force in order to eject it out the port. The ejector certainly LOOKS OK but then, I'm not a gunsmith.

Next round of advice?

That ejector is the secondary ejector, the primary is part of the magazine. That's the one that counts when you're shooting the gun. I'd install a VQ extractor, get a new factory magazine, and get a new secondary ejector from Brownells (780-010-044WB Ejector Mfr Part: B80). If that doesn't cure it I'd change the ammo.
 

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