How to rust blue, for those that want to know

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I_Like_Pie

Blackhawk
Joined
Aug 24, 2006
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659
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Chattanooga, TN
I have read where if it is a "dry" day that you can make a humidity box that speeds the rusting process. I decided to try it out during one of the cycles to see if it made a difference. I got a pail of hot water and put it to one side of the hanger assembly and covered the whole thing with a tarp.

It didn't really make a difference on a 50% humidity day...and even read where this can actually set you back if there is any condensation that forms on the item you are bluing.

Picture in question:



To follow up on your earlier question on why this is preferred on old double barreled shotguns...I did some research.

It is less because of the temperature differential between processes as much as the use of caustic salts. The caustic salt process is at about 300F where the rusting process is 212F. the solder does contains air bubbles that contain moisture that can expand and cause deformation...minor concern, but worth mentioning. The major reason from what I can tell, however, is that it is really difficult to remove all of the caustic salts from between the barrels...too many voids and you get salt creep as a result.
 
Joined
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11,654
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Thanks, Matt.

FWIW, I went to the Laurel Mountain site and read their descriptions and instructions. It's of note that the solution used is, in fact, called "browning" solution. The addition of the boiling water steps described here produce the blue/black coloration, but if used without the boiling water steps will produce that old, antique "rust brown" color.

http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/barr ... n_inst.htm

I was not aware of this.

:D
 

I_Like_Pie

Blackhawk
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Messages
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Chattanooga, TN
Update....I have now completed 8 reblues with this method. Most were single shot .22 rifles with a simple action, but the results are easy to reproduce and look as good (if not better) than any hot salt reblue I have seen.

The smaller parts such as trigger guards, screws, bolts and so on were hot salt blued by me and match up perfectly to the rust blue process as well...since you are doing the same thing (abeit different methods) it is the composition of the metal rather than the process that determines the color of the final product.

One thing that I have found....somewhat of a warning

I have noticed that the more you polish in preparation for this...the more difficulty and time the process takes. Not because of the time spent polishing, but the resistance of the polished surface to the nitric acid in the formula. It doesn't take well and it ends up producing the same as if you didn't polish. This means that if you are looking for a satin blue you are golden. If you are trying to reproduce the blue found on a S&W or an old SRH...you will not be able to do it with this method. Had a couple of old $150 S&W model 10s that I redid and they took much longer to refinish simply because I did not rough up the finish rather than try to keep the polish intact.
 

bassinken

Bearcat
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May 1, 2009
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South Carolina
That is interesting and good to know. It is like applying a finish to wood. The best oil finishes/stains are applied to wood sanded with no more than 180-220 grit. Any higher grit can burnish the surface so the finish can't soak in. Same principle must be happening here.
 

Easy Ed

Single-Sixer
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Apr 25, 2006
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Altamont, Illinois, USA
Laurel Mountain is very good for browning. I have done three muzzleloaders with it and wouldn't use anything else. Humidity is most important as it will not brown on a dry day without a damp box. Have not tried it for bluing yet. I-Like-Pie have you tried it on any blackhawks yet? If so what were your result?

Ed
 

keen one

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
23
Location
Michigan
Hey here's a plus one for the instructions provided herein! I just finished an old Marlin with rust blue (Brownells formula) 7 coats and the piece looks better than when it left the factory.

Thanks for the good advice all.

One bad thing...now the kids think that immersion in boiling water will convert any iron oxide.
 

I_Like_Pie

Blackhawk
Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Messages
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Chattanooga, TN
Yeah...I am also working on an old Marlin lever action right now. Have noticed that different manufacturers use different steels. All take the bluing differently. Ruger 10/22 barrels finish in 3 or 4 coats while old remington barrels have taken me 9 cycles.



I am 100% convinced that it is a better finish than factory hot salt bluing.
 

Wheelgunner

Single-Sixer
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Oct 24, 2007
Messages
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Canada
I_Like_Pie,

How do you deal with areas where you do not want any bluing. Can they be taped off, coated with something, etc.?

Thanks

Wheelgunner
 

tuner

Bearcat
Joined
Jul 22, 2010
Messages
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Location
Savannah, Ga.
Wheelgunner: I have a similar question for the experts. When rust bluing what is the procedure to protect and clean up the action. Say you have a barreled action that you are rust bluing; you give it a coat in the areas you want to blue, but not in the interior of the action. Then it is placed in a sweat box and allowed to rust, or if the area is humid enough just left to hang and rust. I would think one would not want rust to form inside the action but I do not see how it is avoidable in a no lube, damp environment. How does on e clean up any rust that forms in the tight small nooks and cranies of an action; toothpicks, dental picks and fine steelwool and a lot of attention and elbow grease? Do the experts apply a rust preventative to the areas they do not want to rust, that seems impossible with the need / requirement for an absolutely oil free surface.
 

I_Like_Pie

Blackhawk
Joined
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Messages
659
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Chattanooga, TN
For the inside of barrels I plug them up with dowel rods to prevent the acid from pitting.

I suppose that one would have a similar situation when hot salt bluing with rust getting into nooks and crannies. With that respect there are no shortcuts with rust bluing. You have tho take everything completely apart just like you would for hot salt bluing. A toothbrush, wet cotton cloth or toothpick can be used to card the nooks and crannies in the receiver. Items like the barrel to receiver threading are so tight that you should not have any issues with rust or acid getting into the threads.

I do think it would be possible to rust blue only the barrel with the receiver still attached (or visa versa). Rather than use oil or grease to protect the receiver you could layer a temporary coating of spray paint to the parts that you don't want blued and then remove the paint with thinner or a remover that wouldn't hurt the bluing after you are done. Same for the internal bits you are wanting to protect. I have done this with parkerizing and it worked very well.
 

Wheelgunner

Single-Sixer
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Oct 24, 2007
Messages
226
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Canada
I_Like_Pie said:
For the inside of barrels I plug them up with dowel rods to prevent the acid from pitting.

I suppose that one would have a similar situation when hot salt bluing with rust getting into nooks and crannies. With that respect there are no shortcuts with rust bluing. You have tho take everything completely apart just like you would for hot salt bluing. A toothbrush, wet cotton cloth or toothpick can be used to card the nooks and crannies in the receiver. Items like the barrel to receiver threading are so tight that you should not have any issues with rust or acid getting into the threads.

I do think it would be possible to rust blue only the barrel with the receiver still attached (or visa versa). Rather than use oil or grease to protect the receiver you could layer a temporary coating of spray paint to the parts that you don't want blued and then remove the paint with thinner or a remover that wouldn't hurt the bluing after you are done. Same for the internal bits you are wanting to protect. I have done this with parkerizing and it worked very well.

I_Like_Pie,

Thanks. Sorry for the late response.

Wheelgunner
 

MtnJack

Bearcat
Joined
Nov 2, 2006
Messages
41
Location
Beaver Pa Usa
If some one would be kind enough to post some pictures of a black hawk or single six that was rust blued I would be a happy man. Can a firearm be media blasted and then rust blued? Now in retirement I have the time thank you very much. Mtn Jack
 

fltrainer

Bearcat
Joined
Aug 30, 2012
Messages
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Location
Florida
I_Like_pie, here's a sticky by Valmet 76 on AKFiles.com titled "Rust Blue." Loads of pics. Check it out..... Carl
 

sheep.dog

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 6, 2012
Messages
282
Location
Vermont
Does the firing pin assembly need to be removed before rust bluing a blackhawk? I am comfortable stripping everything else down but I've never removed the firing pin before and I wouldn't want to get rust down in there.
 

Pinecone

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 29, 2007
Messages
970
Location
Maine
While my "current" method is not rust bluing, it has served me well for the dozen or so guns I have restored in the past 10 years since returning to Maine. I have enclosed "before and after" photos of a Springfield Model 87A I restored over the winter. It was one of the most rusted guns I ever undertook to restore. It had layed in a field behind an old barn for several years when it was found. The method I have been bluing these restorations is very simple to apply. A lot easier than either the hot tank bluing or rust bluing. (Been there done that)! After much preparation, draw filling, sanding strips on the lathe, (up to 600 grit) and polishing, the gun was ready for bluing. I hang the barreled action on a wire at face level between two hooks. I use Brownell's Oxpho Blue pretty exclusively that comes in a pint bottle. Use surgical gloves and apply the blue with cotton balls. "BEFORE" I apply the bluing, I "HEAT" the barrel and action with the "high" setting on a hand held "hair" dryer, (I get these from Goodwill used for from $1 to $3) Since one end will cool before the other end is heated, I do a 3 to 4 inch section at a time and coat the whole gun moderately. I repeat the process with several coatings until I get the color I want. The next process is to "stop" the bluing action with a clean rag and cold water. Take the barreled action off the wire and wipe down well with a dry, clean, red, shop rag. Apply a good coat of oil (I use RemOil) and let set for 24 hours. Apply another coat of oil and "LIGHTLY" rub the bluing with 0000 steel wool. From here on out, I put a coat of oil on the gun every 24 hours and simply rub it out with a clean, dry, shop rag and coat again with oil and let cure 48 hours. I do this last step several times over a couple of weeks. That's it. I'm then finished except for putting the gun back together. For small parts, I use the "heat with torch and dip method" in 30W Motor Oil. This method as you can see, puts a very nice blue on the gun. You do "ALL" the bluing in less than an hour and clean up is very easy. I have tried about 8 different bluing solutions with this method and Oxpho Blue definitely gives the very best results, gun to gun!...................Dick
 

SGW Gunsmith

Blackhawk
Joined
May 15, 2010
Messages
966
Location
Northwestern Wisconsin
I know, I came to the party way late, so when I'm done I'll go to my room. :D The ONLY type of bluing I do anymore is "rust bluing". I used to do the hot dip caustic bluing, but with the EPA restrictions involved with the depleted bluing salts disposal, I just don't need to have black helicopters landing on my empire. Here's a Stevens Favorite 1915 that a Grampa brought me to refurbish for his grandson. Before and after photos:

Before:


After:


Before:


After:


The bore on this fine little rifle was rotted out so badly that the only way to get it up and running was to reline it. It now shoots very well and Grandpa and Grandson are both very happy.
 

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