SR 1911 10mm issue

Hello all,

Not very happy with my new Ruger 10mm. I picked it up last weekend and it has already been sent back to Ruger to get repaired. I literally put 3 rounds of Double Tap ammo through it and the slide seized up (will not cycle). I have purchased many Ruger firearms over the years without any issues. This is the first Ruger firearm I have had to send back.

ideal73 said:

Hello all,

Not very happy with my new Ruger 10mm. I picked it up last weekend and it has already been sent back to Ruger to get repaired. I literally put 3 rounds of Double Tap ammo through it and the slide seized up (will not cycle). I have purchased many Ruger firearms over the years without any issues. This is the first Ruger firearm I have had to send back.

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Sorry to hear that. Problems with new Ruger firearms are a lot more prevalent than they should be.
On the bright side, they do have good customer service.
Please post what they tell you the issue was and what they did to resolve it.

It was probably galling. If you do some research on the 1911 forum, you will find the Dan Wesson stainless slide/frame models (no coating) have had a reputation for doing the same thing. If the tolerances are too tight, and there is a burr on the rail, they can seize right up. I had that happen with a Dan Wesson C-Bob. Needed a rubber mallet to knock the slide off the frame. I lapped the frame to slide with some JB Bore paste / oil mix and it never happened again.

Anyone hear about taking a new 1911,

hand cycling the slide fifty or more times
(I prefer three to five times that many),

dry firing it 250+ times,

detail strip it,

clean and lube it properly,

then go to the range?

I've yet to have a 1911 fail after and initial handling as above.
HALF of the ones I've not done that to had some type of problem.

GOLLY-GEE-WHIZ Batman, they are 1911s. :shock:



PLEASE don't go with the "they should work out of the box" arguments.
We all want them as inexpensive as possible.
(Just like the Dem'z should have accepted Trump by now)
A friend even had his Wilson Combat fail without that.

I have had stainless steel slides with ftb's. My KelTec P-11, and a S&W 4506. A good greasing of the rails made it all right.
gramps

OP, sorry to hear about your issue. Ruger will fix it, and you should have your gun back in a snap.

As for the advice others have offered about fixing it with a soft mallet, while I suspect I'd have done that if it had been my gun, this is your gun, and you're certainly within your rights to send it back. After all, it's a brand new gun.

One other comment about 1911's. The internet experts have been doing their best to condition us all to demand that all new 1911's must be tight as drums, or they are junk. While this tends to make for accurate guns, it also increases the chances that a new 1911 will not be 100% reliable right out of the box.

They will make it right. I usually field strip, clean & lube any new gun before its first range trip.

I literally put 3 rounds of Double Tap ammo through it and the slide seized up (will not cycle).

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Did you lubricate it prior to shooting it?

Six weeks and not even a second post . . . . we may have scared him off.


As a P.S. to my post above . . . .
I really like Slipstream as the lubricant for slide and rails. It is X-PEN-SIVE
at $15 for two ounces, but considering it takes about five drops to handle
a NIB gun, that seems acceptable.

My SIL got a new Colt a few years back and brought it to CO with them
as they came up for vacation. We were at the table while he cleaned it
in preparation for the range, the next day. He was about done and I
suggested Slipstream. He gave me that look of "OK it's wife's dad so I'll
humor him" and said fine, let's see how it works. I put a few drops on the
rails and slide, then handed it back to him. Talk about your basic
deer in the headlights look . . . suffice it to say he wanted information
on where to get some.

Does that mean Slipstream is better than any other? I doubt it, but it
does mean it's a good option. YMMV, but I like Slipstream, and you DO
need to use a good quality oil for rails and slide.

Please don't go off on a "I use Mobil 1" (or any other motor oil). Why
would it be called (incorrectly) motor oil, if it were for guns or sewing
machines? Let's face it, if you can afford to shoot, at today's prices,
you can afford to use good quality supplies that are specifically for the
application you have at hand.

I really like Slipstream as the lubricant for slide and rails. It is X-PEN-SIVE
at $15 for two ounces, but considering it takes about five drops to handle
a NIB gun, that seems acceptable.

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Had not heard of Slipstream, may have to check it out. I use M-Pro 7. It costs about half as much as yours, but similarily only a few drops is needed and it lasts a good while. I have heard the Mobil 1 whispers as well, but I will stick to a purpose made product for as little of it that it takes.

Six weeks and not even a second post . . . . we may have scared him off.

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Typical drive-by complainer. One post to his credit :roll:

I believe it's called a b!tch and ditch

I Use S T P . On A Cotton Swab On My Rails. My .02.

Troll?

Mine had a small brown spot on feedramp but not thinking it's rust since barrel is stainless steel. Otherwise, it's a great piece.

Mine has two bobbles in the first two mags shot in it and after that has ran like the proverbial sewing machine. What I attributed to mag malfunctions I now believe was a very tight new gun issue. Love it now.

Steve...........

Mine has been great but so far only a couple hundred rounds of three different brands of ammo. Have used CLP for SS on it. Nice pistol for the price.

A 1911 10mm shooter who doesn't know about (grease vs oil vs dry) lubrication? All signs point to a false claim. :roll:

mohavesam said:

All signs point to a false claim. :roll:

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After four months and still only one post . . . . Yup. :roll:

I use a dab of Mil-Tech grease on all wear points and for the rails for years, no problems so far.

Steve.........