Proper method for adjusting a No. 1 three screw trigger

I have always liked the trigger on my 222 No. 1 but recently have had the pleasure of pulling some very nice custom (not No. 1) triggers and thought that I could perhaps improve on mine a bit. Problem is that I don't really know if there was a proper sequence for adjustment and I am not 100% sure which screw does what. So - looking for some older No.1 experts to help me through the process correctly.

Presently there is no perceptible take up and the trigger breaks cleanly with very little over travel. Just hoping that I can reduce the pull somewhat.

Here is a pic of my trigger with the internal adjusting screw shown. That is the one to adjust for pull - right?



http://cubeupload.com/im/ebdyguy/IMG1013.jpg

Not really. The "third", internal screw adjusts sear engagement. If your trigger already has a crisp let-off (i.e. no creep) then you should not adjust the internal trigger any further.
You can improve things by adjusting the overtravel (front screw). Turn it in until the trigger won't release when pulled then, while keeping pressure on the trigger, back it out until the trigger releases; then go another 1/4 turn or so to ensure reliable function.
Also, back out the rear screw (the return pressure, or "pull" adjustment)as much as reasonable, or replace the return spring with a lighter one. I have found that the OEM sear spring has more than enough pressure for safe function of the trigger and have left out the trigger return spring entirely, on occasion, but I am not suggesting that to anyone else, especially on a gun used for hunting or anywhere other than at a bench at the range.

Finally, some careful polishing of the sear and hammer engagement surfaces should result in a lighter pull, as well as light polishing and light lubrication of any other moving or interacting parts in the trigger/sear group.


P.S. I'm south of Syracuse and used to visit CNY Sports in Central Square a lot when I worked up in Oswego County. I picked up a No. 1 or two there over the years. :wink:

A dream of many, a Ruger No.1 in 222............tis a fine rifle I am sure. I have been thinking of rebarreling a donor to 222 for a good while, but as you know, life is life.

The picture you showed, shows the sear/hammer engagement screw that triggers used to feature, but the lawyer market got good I guess.

Sounds like you are in fair shape for a factory trigger all in all. Movement of the sear engagement screw adjusts the overlap of the two controlling surfaces of the hammer and sear. You can get tons of engagement or none at all. Be it may, the movement of the screw as you can see in the picture, will move the safety bar up closer to the safety retaining surface. Does not have a lot of clearance now; suspect that it was custom fitted at the factory, safe on; safe off; probably and a little movement upwards will preclude you from engaging said safety system with the tang button. The little spur at the rear of the safety lever will hit the bottom of the safety stop(on the pushbutton riggin) and that can lead into issues I prefer not to discuss.

I think the basic three screw safety is ok, the old Canjar single set and Kleppinger(Austrian) are probably more better from a target prespective. As pointed out, tis no real need for a sub 1oz trigger on a 458; hard on the nose and eyebrow.

I have been looking over the fence at getting away from Ruger's two or three screw trigger, they are multi-link. The Jard single piece gets rid of the links in general, but no experience here with one; hearsay on the net is just that too.........

Thanks for the replies. I do understand it a bit better and might try to undertake the polishing as the adjustments probably close to optimum. There is very little total trigger travel at all right now. I am also looking at a Jard trigger for one of my other more modern No. 1s. I want to keep the 222 alone since it is a first year gun and actually operates quite well

I have worked on machinery all my life. I also was going to try to get a little "FREE PEDAL", out of a Massie 165 gas. It took several tries and the best part of 2 weeks off and on to get it back to a "HIGH PEDAL". Sometimes...........leave well enough alone..