There is a fellow on GB advertising a no.1 as stainless, the barrel clearly marked "made in the 200th year of American liberty", 1976. The pistol grip cap has been replaced with what appears to be a slightly smaller stainless-looking cap, with a phillips head screw holding it on, and the rifle has engraving. I'm under the impression that 2000 was the first year of stainless production. What say the experts here? Regards, 021
1976 ruger no. 1 stainless?
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gewehrfreund
Buckeye
Never heard of such a beast, but others might have. Just when you say "never" regarding the No. 1, something comes along to prove one wrong.
Still, I'd be willing to say that this is just a Liberty gun that has been messed with (i.e. blue removed from barrel). The grip cap missing the medallion is a pretty good giveaway.
Still, I'd be willing to say that this is just a Liberty gun that has been messed with (i.e. blue removed from barrel). The grip cap missing the medallion is a pretty good giveaway.
Could have been refinished in electroless nickel or industrial hard chrome.
singleshot
Single-Sixer
As far as I know, the 1996 RMEF stainless receiver/blued barrel was the earliest stainless No. 1 (chambered in 30/40 Krag).
60 engraved receivers (adam'--father/son work).
5 supposedly w/o engraving as spares (unknown as to the where-about's of these).
There was a guy on 24hours who said he had a 96 or 97 full factory stainless (receiver/barrel) He never did post pictures, nor offer up the serial numbers, so I have no clue as to the authenticity of his post.
I am unable to locate the GB sales you are referring to, is it possible to get a link?
60 engraved receivers (adam'--father/son work).
5 supposedly w/o engraving as spares (unknown as to the where-about's of these).
There was a guy on 24hours who said he had a 96 or 97 full factory stainless (receiver/barrel) He never did post pictures, nor offer up the serial numbers, so I have no clue as to the authenticity of his post.
I am unable to locate the GB sales you are referring to, is it possible to get a link?
singleshot
Single-Sixer
GB serial # 130-35464
I have #2 of the RMEF rifles; serial # 133-33502. I understand Ruger parts bin receivers, but going from a 130 prefix to a 133 is a huge spread. Plus I'd like to think that the last two digits (02) are in sequence with the 60 rifles built. Then again, I have never seen another RMEF rifle to verify this.
A side note: On my rifle, the trigger, safety and the top of the falling block are all blued. The side of the falling block are indeed stainless in color, just the top is blued. I think this mix master style was done to allow the blued barrel to mesh in.
OR.... Those stainless parts where not available and or manufactured in 1996, only the receiver and the lever.
More questions than answers.... Makes it kind of fun when time allows.
Regardless, the GB rifle is beautiful. The buttstock could be replaced with a OEM one w/o much effort.
Lastly, the micro-grooves (for lack of better words) on the top of the quarter rib looks to either still retain a blued color, OR it was designed that way by the person who engraved it, OR it's just the angle of the photo.
I have #2 of the RMEF rifles; serial # 133-33502. I understand Ruger parts bin receivers, but going from a 130 prefix to a 133 is a huge spread. Plus I'd like to think that the last two digits (02) are in sequence with the 60 rifles built. Then again, I have never seen another RMEF rifle to verify this.
A side note: On my rifle, the trigger, safety and the top of the falling block are all blued. The side of the falling block are indeed stainless in color, just the top is blued. I think this mix master style was done to allow the blued barrel to mesh in.
OR.... Those stainless parts where not available and or manufactured in 1996, only the receiver and the lever.
More questions than answers.... Makes it kind of fun when time allows.
Regardless, the GB rifle is beautiful. The buttstock could be replaced with a OEM one w/o much effort.
Lastly, the micro-grooves (for lack of better words) on the top of the quarter rib looks to either still retain a blued color, OR it was designed that way by the person who engraved it, OR it's just the angle of the photo.
gewehrfreund
Buckeye
A 1B Liberty gun, so definitely not stainless; just given a "stainless" look by the engraver to to highlight their work. All factory including the wood which has been reshaped a bit for a custom look, which seems like talented amateur work to me on close inspection (the lack of replacing the grip cap medallion is a dead giveaway).
Too bad about the cracked buttstock; that's some great figure.
Too bad about the cracked buttstock; that's some great figure.
singleshot
Single-Sixer
lol....
I was looking at the buttstock figure also, almost indicative of an older rifle. It's a shame about the crack. A person could look at many No. 1's and not come across one that has that amount of figure.
I've got a couple spare buttstocks, but they are later and look very similar to what a fence post would look like with a couple coats of linspeed oil. Functional for war time usage I guess.
I was looking at the buttstock figure also, almost indicative of an older rifle. It's a shame about the crack. A person could look at many No. 1's and not come across one that has that amount of figure.
I've got a couple spare buttstocks, but they are later and look very similar to what a fence post would look like with a couple coats of linspeed oil. Functional for war time usage I guess.
French Grey.
The following is a post from a firearm builders forum that simply explains a method.
There are a variety of methods used to get French gray. A common method is to blue first using hot caustic salts and then etch the blue off with dilute hydrochloric or acetic acid. You can also do this with a good quality cold blue as the base coat. The combination of the bluing and etching just takes that shine off the surface which allows the engraving to show better.
The following is a post from a firearm builders forum that simply explains a method.
There are a variety of methods used to get French gray. A common method is to blue first using hot caustic salts and then etch the blue off with dilute hydrochloric or acetic acid. You can also do this with a good quality cold blue as the base coat. The combination of the bluing and etching just takes that shine off the surface which allows the engraving to show better.
