Ruger American Predator 223 Remington...questions.

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Dantforth

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I have just purchased a used one. My questions are regards to ammunition and accessories. I am wondering if anyone here can recommend ammunition or handloads which work in their rifle? I also would like to add a cheek rest. Also, are there any adjustments which might improve accuracy? Thanks, Dave
 
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Midwest Illinois
I have the American Predator in 223 and 243. Both are very accurate. The 243 is amazing, getting 3 shot groups with all touching. The 223 shoots into .5" with various factory loads. It seems to do best with 52 and 53 grain bullets. I put a Boyd's stock on the 223 just for looks. Other than that they are stock with 3-9x40 scopes on them.
 

pisgah

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Honestly, you will get more, and more useful, answers once you try it out and determine if there are any problems to address. What works fine for mine might just be gosh-awful for yours.
 

rugerjunkie

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If you want to talk to some guys who are a wealth of information wether you've reloaded for 50 years and think you know it all , or are new to it , the techs at Sierra are great guys to chat with. And like I said , even if you've reloaded for years , ya just might learn something from those guys!
 

wwb

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pisgah said:
Honestly, you will get more, and more useful, answers once you try it out and determine if there are any problems to address. What works fine for mine might just be gosh-awful for yours.

What he said. Take it out and shoot it for function to uncover any problems. As far as accuracy, everybody on the forum can give you their most accurate .223 load, and I'd be mighty surprised if any two of them matched.

My bull-barrel Savage Model 12 FV is most accurate (i.e. smallest groups) at 100 yards with a Sierra 60 grain Varminter and 25.5 grains of Reloder 15. Smallest 300 yard groups is a Nosler 69 grain BTHP and 24.0 grains of Reloder 15. The chances that these are the best performers in your rifle? Just about nil.
 

pisgah

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Dantforth said:
I know that but am looking for a place to start. I reload. Also wondering about aftermarket add on cheek rests for the butt.


Since you reload, you already know the best place to start -- in your manuals! :wink:
 

Hylander

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May 1, 2008
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California
Did you get the rifle with the Rotary mag or AR mag?
As far as hand loads:
These are great for me and safe in my firearms and not hot loads.
Please start lower and work your way up to make sure they are safe in your firearm.

Super accurate load:
55 Vmax, seated 2.250
25.7 8208 XBR
Rem 7.5 Primer

Very accurate hunting load:
55 Vmax, seated 2.250
25.7 TAC
Rem 7.5 Primer

Unleaded Squirrel load:
40 Nosler Lead free, seated 2.255
26.5 TAC
Rem 7.5 Primer
 

Dantforth

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Thanks Hylander. This is what I was looking for. Somewhere to start. It is the rotary mag model. I have reloaded for over fifty years for many different calibers. I even cast my own bullets and reload for some interesting calibers like the 57 Snider and the 577-450 Martini Henry. I do appreciate your input. David
 

Hylander

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Hey David,
I just ordered the same rifle tonight.
I don't care for the AR mag style, just don't like the mag sticking out.
Also the Rotary mag model feeds much smoother.
Let us know how yours shoots.
 

Dantforth

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I am returning home from California on the 2nd of March. I will be anxious to take it to the range. I do have some factory ammunition so I will try that first. I will post here after my range time. David
 

Dantforth

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Westport, Ontario, Canada
So, I am home. The rifle is lovely. I do notice that the barrel is touching the stock at the very front of the fore stock. I expect the barrel is intended to be free floated? If that is the case I will remove some material to accomplish that. Has anyone done this with a RAP green sock? Advise?
 

onehandgunner

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Nov 24, 2011
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Los Lunas, N.M..
About a year ago I bought the same rifle. I like it, it seems to shoot and function fine with no barrel to stock contact. I may fill the butt stock with silicone. I did have the barrel cut and crowned at 18" for balance and portability reasons. Have not shot it since the "cut". I hope to use a 65gr Sierra Game King once I find a suitable powder.
 

pisgah

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I don't know if that slight barrel-to-fore-end contact is "intended" or not, but I will say that it is pretty much universal in the economy line of rifles with synthetic stocks. I've seen it in Rugers, Remingtons, Savages, etc., etc. And I don't know that it's necessarily something that needs correction. It frequently shows little or no ill effect on accuracy. I've see free-floating help such rifles and I have seen it hurt them. A .270 Savage Axis I have started shooting patterns after I free-floated the barrel; after adding a pressure point in the fore-end that exerted significantly more pressure than the original stock did it turned in to a consistent sub-MOA shooter. So clearly, that contact is not always bad and can be go
 

Dantforth

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Pisgah, the contact is on the left front corner so I cannot see how it would be a positive. I intend to free float it but did not want to charge into it without speaking to someone who had some experience with this. Do I just go at it with sandpaper? If so, which grit? Is the green compromised to reveal some other colour underneath or is the green colour consistent all the way through? Hoping someone can help.
Dave
 

onehandgunner

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Los Lunas, N.M..
Before you attack it with sandpaper, loosen the action screws and see if you can re-position the action/barrel to stock then re-torque . I have read that this can solve the problem in some cases.
 
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