Mini 14 bolt issues
- Thread starter insyder
- Start date
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Voyager28
Single-Sixer
Hard to tell from the photos, but, the problem appears to be with the slide handle separating at the disassembly notch in the receiver. It looks like it was either not assembled properly to begin with or it is slightly bent.
If it were me I'd send it back to Ruger before shooting it again.
Bob
If it were me I'd send it back to Ruger before shooting it again.
Bob
#1).....Get out your manual, look at item #27-"cover plate" in the parts drawing, and then look at yours as depicted in your lower photo.
I've never seen a factory cover plate that looks like the one in your rifle. Every one that I've ever seen is stamped from a rather thin material, and only features a small "thumb nail tab" facing towards the outside.
#2)....Remove your barreled action from the stock and afterwards, remove the recoil spring (#19) and guide (#18).
#3)....Insure that the op-rod is sitting in it's channel, draw it (and the bolt) fully to the rear, then remove the cover plate (#27).
#4)....Remove and inspect the Ejector Bolt Lock, Bolt Lock plunger and Spring (items #26 #24 & #25, clean off any debris you find, add a touch of oil and reassemble.paying particular attention to the hole which the Ejector Bolt Lock locates and pivots.....and at where the ejector tab is being presented in relation to it's clearence-grove on the side of the bolt.
#5)...reinstall the cover plate and reinstall the barreled action into the stock,but do not install the recoil spring and guide, or the trigger ass'y.....you can use tape or a rubber band to hold the action in place.
#6)....ckeck for full motion of the bolt-lock/ejector ass'y, and that it moves freely up and down.
At this point you can also work the slide and bolt back and forth while watching to see if the ejector is positioned so's that it slides slides easily through it's notch in the bolt.
The object of the exersize here, is to see if maybe "something" is amiss with those particular parts relative to how they interact with each other during the bolt's travel.
In other words, it might be that "that something" is side-loading the bolt to the degree that the bolt is causing the op-rod to be pushed through it's disassembly notch during operation.
My guess is that if that is indeed the case, it'll have to do with the ejector to bolt-grove relationship being out of whack...and if so, there should be visable evidence-marks on the side of the bolt and/or some sort of burr on the ejector, and/or abnormal rub marks on the side of the Ejector Bolt Lock itself......any of which, if present, might have to do with your cover plate.
Other than that, I'm back to suspecting a bent op-rod.
In any event though, I'd still send the rifle back to Ruger so they can bring it up to spec......and while I was at it, I'd be asking them about that strange-lookin' cover plate too....just sayin'.
Hope this helps.
DGW
I've never seen a factory cover plate that looks like the one in your rifle. Every one that I've ever seen is stamped from a rather thin material, and only features a small "thumb nail tab" facing towards the outside.
#2)....Remove your barreled action from the stock and afterwards, remove the recoil spring (#19) and guide (#18).
#3)....Insure that the op-rod is sitting in it's channel, draw it (and the bolt) fully to the rear, then remove the cover plate (#27).
#4)....Remove and inspect the Ejector Bolt Lock, Bolt Lock plunger and Spring (items #26 #24 & #25, clean off any debris you find, add a touch of oil and reassemble.paying particular attention to the hole which the Ejector Bolt Lock locates and pivots.....and at where the ejector tab is being presented in relation to it's clearence-grove on the side of the bolt.
#5)...reinstall the cover plate and reinstall the barreled action into the stock,but do not install the recoil spring and guide, or the trigger ass'y.....you can use tape or a rubber band to hold the action in place.
#6)....ckeck for full motion of the bolt-lock/ejector ass'y, and that it moves freely up and down.
At this point you can also work the slide and bolt back and forth while watching to see if the ejector is positioned so's that it slides slides easily through it's notch in the bolt.
The object of the exersize here, is to see if maybe "something" is amiss with those particular parts relative to how they interact with each other during the bolt's travel.
In other words, it might be that "that something" is side-loading the bolt to the degree that the bolt is causing the op-rod to be pushed through it's disassembly notch during operation.
My guess is that if that is indeed the case, it'll have to do with the ejector to bolt-grove relationship being out of whack...and if so, there should be visable evidence-marks on the side of the bolt and/or some sort of burr on the ejector, and/or abnormal rub marks on the side of the Ejector Bolt Lock itself......any of which, if present, might have to do with your cover plate.
Other than that, I'm back to suspecting a bent op-rod.
In any event though, I'd still send the rifle back to Ruger so they can bring it up to spec......and while I was at it, I'd be asking them about that strange-lookin' cover plate too....just sayin'.
Hope this helps.
DGW
Chief_10Beers
Blackhawk
Middle Pic, looks like a bent Op Rod................................
insyder said:
Well, it could be that a prior owner "improved" the rifle untill it has finaly quit working.
That aint an unusual state of affairs these days, and one that invariably involved some amount of aftermarket pasts swapping....which is all the more reason to send it back to Ruger for inspection and proper repairs.
My own experience with Ruger's customer service is that they are courteous and quick...."quick" meaning that when I sent mine in, it was back in my hands in under 2 weeks.
DGW
