mark iii - hard bolt pull

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ral3

Bearcat
Joined
Sep 11, 2013
Messages
19
my mark iii hunter (2008 model) when in the de-cocked position is almost impossible to re-cock (i use pliers to reset it) when in the cocked position it has a normal pull - what could cause this? what controls the tension? parts to replace?

thanks for your help

this is a new gun to me and i have never run into this before
 

woodsy

Blackhawk
Joined
Jan 5, 2012
Messages
958
Location
Seymour, CT
There just MIGHT be more responses if this thread was in the rimfire forum.
My Mark 1 is always harder to pull the bolt for its first shot, because it is cocking at the same time. But it is quite manageable. Did you disassemble and reassemble recently? If so, that could be your problem.
 

ral3

Bearcat
Joined
Sep 11, 2013
Messages
19
thanks for the info - as it turns out it was an assembly problem (what it was i don't know but it is ok now)

i did not know there was a rim fire forum so thanks again
 
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
10,435
Location
Greenville, SC: USA
Probably how the internal hammer was set.... pain to get it right especially when trying to follow Ruger's instructions... but really not that hard once you understand what is going on inside. then again the last time I took my Mark III apart was about 10,000+ rounds ago.
 

SGW Gunsmith

Blackhawk
Joined
May 15, 2010
Messages
966
Location
Northwestern Wisconsin
ral3 said:
my mark iii hunter (2008 model) when in the de-cocked position is almost impossible to re-cock (i use pliers to reset it) when in the cocked position it has a normal pull - what could cause this? what controls the tension? parts to replace?

thanks for your help

this is a new gun to me and i have never run into this before

I'm sure you know that when pulling the bolt back, we need to over-come the mainspring in the mainspring housing assembly. That's where the resistance is and what pulling the bolt back needs to overcome to cock the sear into the hammer notch.
Mark II pistols are not that hard to cock initially, because the bolt diameter ears are a bit larger and provide more of a purchase to get the sear and hammer engaged. Once the hammer and sear are engaged, there's little resistance to over-come, so it's much easier to pull the bolt back.
Many folks are now using additions attached to the rear end of the Ruger Mark III and Mark IV bolts to ease the pull back involved with the smaller bolt ears. So, don't change, or accept any advice to change, the mainspring housing spring to a lighter version. You are very likely to get light firing pin hits due to the weaker spring.
Check out some of the bolt retract assist parts from Ron Power Custom, he's very professional and makes the parts he sells.
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2006
Messages
9,810
Location
Woodbury, Tn
Even with arthritic hands you should be able to cock it without resorting to pliers. Glad you found the problem. Like Blume357, I haven't had my Mark ll apart in years. :shock: :wink:
gramps
 

Pat-inCO

Hawkeye
Joined
Oct 17, 2009
Messages
5,922
Location
In the AZ oven (Phoenix basin)
gramps said:
I haven't had my Mark ll apart in years.
I have a Mk-II that for the first few thousand rounds had to be
disassembled and cleaned every two or three hundred rounds.
My guess is that there was something that wore in, because I
have not had to disassemble it in many years now.
 

AzShooter1

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 14, 2017
Messages
405
Location
Surprise, Az
Go to Tandemkross.com and order a Halo bolt changing handle. It really helps make it easy and you will never get pinched by the bolt again if that's ever happened to you
 

SGW Gunsmith

Blackhawk
Joined
May 15, 2010
Messages
966
Location
Northwestern Wisconsin
ral3 said:
thanks for the info - as it turns out it was an assembly problem (what it was i don't know but it is ok now)

i did not know there was a rim fire forum so thanks again

Great to read you found the easy fix, rather than the "spend more $$$ solution", and by the way
SgEb8xrm.gif
to the forum.
 
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