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Someone mentioned running a piece of "leadfree cloth" thru the barrel.I tried that today after I thought I had the barrel clean with the usual stuff(Hoppes).I was amazed at the amout of black stuff that kept coming out with the lead free cloth??Anyone else used that before?? Olsherm

I hope it was a stainless barrel. The stuff in most of the lead away, lead free's etc can cause damage to blued guns.

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I was working on the inside of the barrel not the outside.Thanks for the warning anyway.Sure keeps the black stuff coming out.Maybe it was bluing?HUH?Sure looked clean afterwards.

I've been amazed at how much lead can be inside the barrel of my SR22. I started out its life with a box of Remington thunderbolts, unplated lead bullets. About 200-300 rounds into that session, I started seeing BIG accuracy problems. Took the gun home to clean, and couldn't get the cleaning rod through the bore. Looked down the barrel, and I'd swear it was up to half the diameter in places was obstructed by lead smeared on the walls. Cleaned it as best I could with a brass brush and some oil, but still the barrel looked all scuffed, and not mirror-like shiny as it was when it was new. I was worried I had ruined the barrel.

A friend from work recommended Hoppe's No. 9 cleaner. Got a real small bottle of that, and in minutes, I had my shiny barrel back again. I think I pulled almost an entire bullet worth of lead out of that barrel. I haven't heard about what effect Hoppe's may have on bluing, but I have heard you don't want to get this stuff on any of the plastic parts - it dissolves them quick. But for getting lead out of the barrel, it worked wonders.

I've heard others report that the SR22 only likes plated bullets, and I believe it. I've switched over to Winchester copper plated, and have not had one problem since. I still use the Hoppe's to clean the barrel, but it takes just one wipe with a damp patch, and no scrubbing or soaking.

I highly recommend plated bullets. They're not really substantially more expensive.

copper jackets and another bit of advice.... don't worry about it, most 22s shoot better after you've run 50 or so rounds through it after a good barrel scrubbing.... go figure.

I haven''t had much luck getting lead out with Hoppes #9.I recently also fired quite a few lead bullets in a USFA 12/22 and at cleaning time I found a large "cake" of lead just inside the forcing cone. I have never had that in a 22 before in my life and I have owned a lot of them in different makes.Must be the ammo because I have fired it again with different ammo and had no leading problems.

you want "lead" out? then use a Lewis lead remover (brass/copper screens) you think you have the bore clean?? most people only make them smooth and shiny, polish the lead "in place" ,NOT remove and take it out.....................years ago we used 'mercury', that too, did the job
yes, the chemicals in the "Lead Away" cloths, can dull up and remove the bluing on a firearm, so do NOT get carried away, or rub much on ANY outside surface of a blued gun...

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Dan

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There's your problem, Remington Turdbolts. Worst ammo on the market. Stay away from the junk. (Their other ammo is okay.)

You could have knocked all that lead out with one or two quick passes down the bore with a new (not worn) USGI 5.56 M16 bore brush. Works wonders! Been there, done that. I once shot some crappy Argentine-made .22 ammo that would lead up the bore exactly as you describe in less than 50 rounds. The M16 bore brush would knock it all right out and I'd chew my way through another box of the junk. MAN I was glad to see the end of that garbage.

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Sat Cong!

Snake nailed it.

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Hey snake45! Where can we find a M16 bore brush??Army surplus store?
thanks olsherm

Yeah, try there, or vendors at gun shows. I'm sure there are online vendors, too. (Do you know anyone in the military?)

"Civilian" .22 bore brushes just aren't the same--not as tough.

Be advised that the GI bore brush might not fit your civvy cleaning rod. The threads seem to be different. Might want to invest in a GI cleaning rod too, while you're at it.

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Steel cuts flesh. Steel cuts bone. Steel does not cut steel. --Stephen Hunter, The 47th Samurai.

We will march on a road of bones. --Hunter S. Thompson.

Sat Cong!

Hi,

I've never tried this... but it seemed worth passing on if someone wants to try it and report back:

Talked to a fellow at the range one day who had an AR he used for match work. Claimed he'd never used any solvents in that barrel, just Kroil ("the oil that creeps" or however they advertise it.) He told me to soak a patch and wet the barrel down well, then let sit 15-30 minutes to give it time to work.

He said it seeps under and loosens all the fouling, lead, even some copper, so regular brush/patch drills get it all out. Also said this barrel stayed cleaner, longer using Kroil than similar barrels he'd cleaned w/ solvents. Maybe, maybe not?

Rick C

M16 cleaning kit at Sportsman's guide.

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/2 ... x?a=792381

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