Original Vaquero thin Bisley hammer

Does anyone make a Bisley hammer that will fit an old Vaquro keeping the original frame?

Yes, I believe the Powers Custom makes one, black or stainless, but call first to confirm, the description is confusing:
http://powercustom.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=113

But it ain't cheap however you do get a 1/2 cock position. Or grind off the notch to function like a factory hammer. Although removing the hump on the Ruger factory hammer is not all that hard! If you want details just ask.

Ya just need to test any hammer swap to make sure the transfer bar safety is still working properly:

#1. Safety Testing AFTER CHANGING HAMMERS IN NEW MODELS:

The first thing to check is the transfer bar clearance with hammer for reliable firing pin function. When swapping hammers between two guns, it often helps To swap transfer bars as well for proper ignition and to insure the safety feature still works correctly.

TO TEST HAMMER/TRANSFER BAR FOR MISS-FIRES:
With hammer fully cocked, press on the transfer bar to extend the firing pin and observe how far thru the recoil shield it protrudes. Now keep the trigger pulled back, drop the hammer and observe the firing pin again. If firing pin protrudes the same amount, you're good to go. If it doesn't protrude the same amount, you need to remove just enough metal from the top face of the hammer nose so the transfer bar is pushed tight against the firing pin and the frame. If you remove too much, the transfer bar will not perform its safety function and will be pinched. Also make sure hammer has no friction or contact with grip frame ears around its base to slow its fall and you may have miss-fires; another potential issue when making hammer changes.

IF TRIGGER DOESN'T RETURN, TRANSFER BAR IS PINCHED AND SAFETY IS NOT WORKING:
If the transfer bar is hanging up under the hammer face, since it's connected to the trigger, it prevents the trigger from returning. The transfer bar is slightly too thick. If both ends of the trigger return spring are connected (under the grips), or even if you have only one leg of the spring connected it should pull down the transfer bar if it's the correct thickness. When this happens, the transfer bar safety function will not work. If the gun were dropped, a live round in the chamber under the hammer will fire.

This is not uncommon however, and it's a very simple fix. File the second step of the hammer face, counting from the top, just a bit until the bar no longer hangs up. Don't take too much off or you'll have miss-fires. If that happens file a little more off the top step of the hammer.

IF YOU HAD TO MODIFY HAMMER NOSE:
At the range, double check the safety function by loading a live round in the next chamber to cycle under the hammer, point down range, cock the hammer, hold with thumb, release the trigger to uncock the hammer, take finger off trigger and release your thumb to let the hammer fall. The round will not fire if safety transfer bar is functioning correctly.


#2. MY SHORTCUT FOR REMOVING JUST HAMMER and/or PAWL in New Models:

Recognize, when JUST NEEDING to remove the hammer and/or pawl, you do not need to hassle with the PESKY LOADING GATE SPRING, pull the trigger pin, nor trigger/transfer bar. Once you remove the grip frame, the hammer pin is the only other part you need to remove. After that, just pull the hammer back and all the way down, then depress the hammer plunger up into the base of the hammer with a small tipped screwdriver to clear the trigger extension with hole in it where the transfer bar connects to it. Let the hammer & pawl fall back, down and out. Reinstall the hammer and pawl back in the same way they came out. Push the plunger in by pushing it against the trigger extension just like you did with the tip of the small screwdriver, and the hammer will slip by the trigger extension. Piece o' cake.

NOTE: Occasionally a changed hammer that doesn't cock or just barely cocks is because it's hitting the back of the slot in the grip frame. I have had to slightly lengthen the slot with a few file strokes.
If either the trigger or hammer pin are snug fits, after they're removed the first time, it's the opportunity to polish them so they are slip fits to put back in and remove the next time.

Great information. Thanks a lot

Hondo 44 is right about Power Custom's product descriptions not being very good. I'm still trying to figure out if they make a original Ruger Bisley hammer to fit an original Ruger Bisley. I'm talking the hammer with the raised area in the back that will only fit Bisleys. Seems like all the Bisley hammers Power custom has are "universal" - designed to fit all Ruger single actions, so if I buy one of these for my original Bisley there will be a huge unsightly gap in the grip frame behind the hammer.

They do and I believe this is it:


Bisley hammer with hump and ½ cock notch, & trigger set for Ruger Bisley Model, although the photo is wrong:

http://powercustom.com/store/images/montado%20Hammer%20&%20Bisley%20Trigger%20Kit.JPG


Bisley hammer for OM full size frame: (must remove hump for standard grip frame). You can grind a little off the top so it's not too tall to use on the OM 357 mid size frames. Model: PC-3SH

http://powercustom.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=12&sort=20a&page=3

Hondo 44 thanks but I am not talking about Old Models. Power custom needs to hire someone to make sure thier descriptions of products and phos are correct!

The first link is the hammer you're asking about.

The 2nd link is to show the hammer with the hump and also that others who have made old model Bisleys know that a hammer is made for them too.

I called them a couple of times about they're screwed up descriptions, they're not interested.

Just finished filing the transfer bar and the pawl. Fits and shoots perfect

I emailed Power Custom about finding an original Bisley hammer to fit an original Ruger Bisley, the hammer with the raised area in the back that will only fit Bisleys.

Here is Randall Power's response: "Our Bisley hammer will fit the Bisley handles but, the hump is not as big so, there will be a crack there. We have made some in the past but, had too many calls for them to fit the new guns and no one could seem to modify the inside of the frame for it to work correctly. Please let us know if you have any more questions. Thank you, Randall Power".

So alas, they do not make a original Bisley hammer anymore.

So that's the deal. I don't understand the problem having done several in the past. It was the same as installing their 1/2 cock plowhandle standard hammer.

They're kinda pricey anyway; more than double the cost of a factory Bisley hammer. If a guy doesn't want the 1/2 cock feature or knows how to weld, it's not a difficult modification to add the 1/2 cock notch oneself to a factory hammer.

If one just wants to do away with the loading gate interlock, any Ruger factory hammer will work for that including Bisley hammers. It's a very simple modification of the transfer bar. Just removing a small amount of metal from the transfer bar so when it's in the down position and the hammer is at full cock, the bar doesn't block the loading gate from opening.

I was wondering the same thing, if someone with good welding skills and good filing skills could make a half-cock notch themselves on a factory Ruger hammer. I think Wes Flowers, RIP here in AZ used to do that. Unfortunately, I do not have any welding equipment.