base pin
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DHD
Single-Sixer
I can think of a few reasons. Some may like the different look, locking feature (I'm ambivalent on this), and the slightly larger diameter.
I have them in all of my BH's as I do like the #5 style look, though as mentioned if you have the locking type, the screw does make it where you can't just pull the pin at will. The extra diameter is another feature I appreciate though I can't say it makes them more accurate.
2 paragraphs to say I like how they look I suppose. Belt Mountain is a maker of them, and Power Custom is another.
I have them in all of my BH's as I do like the #5 style look, though as mentioned if you have the locking type, the screw does make it where you can't just pull the pin at will. The extra diameter is another feature I appreciate though I can't say it makes them more accurate.
2 paragraphs to say I like how they look I suppose. Belt Mountain is a maker of them, and Power Custom is another.
Aqualung
Blackhawk
Another reason I believe is that the replacement/aftermarket pins have a slightly shorter head. That gives a fraction of an inch more "throw" in extracting spent casings. This helps to eliminate the need to shake or pull a case loose after pushing it out with the ejector rod.
Aqualung
Aqualung
I suppose it's because we like to 'customize' our guns with something a little different. I'm sure, there are a bazillion other performance related reasons (like we used to tell our fathers when we changed something on the family car 
. Personally, I've never changed a base pin and I've owned dozens of single actions over half a century or more (OK, maybe one or two). There's nothing wrong with either position on the matter IMHO of course.....
J.
. Personally, I've never changed a base pin and I've owned dozens of single actions over half a century or more (OK, maybe one or two). There's nothing wrong with either position on the matter IMHO of course.....J.
In one of my guns it was to hopefully help accuracy as they do reduce a little play. Hey, you gotta try, right? But the other revolvers I replaced was simply I liked the #5 pin. Easier on the eyes, easier to pull on when the pin just doesn't want to be pulled. That's why I have a few. BTW, you can order without the set screw. I never use mine as I don't shoot the wrist busting loads in my guns.
The base pin has nothing to do with case ejection. I believe you're thinking about the ejector rod "button"Aqualung said:
I replaced the one in my 6" Bearcat because the original was sloppy and did not 'lock up" properly.
Cholo said:The base pin has nothing to do with case ejection. I believe you're thinking about the ejector rod "button"Aqualung said:
On some SA revolvers, the stroke of the ejector rod button is stopped when it hits the knob on the base pin. Eliminate the knob, and you have that much more stroke to the ejector rod.
gray1 said:
That's an excellent question. Every single action Ruger I've ever owned has worked flawlessly exactly as it came from the mother ship.
Of course, maybe I've just been lucky or am not persnickety enough.
Persnickity does come into play.
A rough base pin makes for a slightly rougher turning of the cylinder, therefore the action. Undersize makes for diminished repeatable accuracy. Bent or otherwise non-concentric does the same thing, as the pin has to be machined undersize to fit thru the cylinder and frame. Some base pins are not sufficiently locked in place by the plunger. All reasons where one might replace a base pin.
These flaws could very well be microscopic, but when tuning a revolver, you make use of every advantage possible, unless good enough is, good enough. :mrgreen:
Finally, a different base pin can significantly enhance the appearance of a revolver.
https://beltmountain.com/order-form/
I also have never bought a replacement base pin, but I've owned revolvers where the base pin was replaced by a previous owner. 8)
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A rough base pin makes for a slightly rougher turning of the cylinder, therefore the action. Undersize makes for diminished repeatable accuracy. Bent or otherwise non-concentric does the same thing, as the pin has to be machined undersize to fit thru the cylinder and frame. Some base pins are not sufficiently locked in place by the plunger. All reasons where one might replace a base pin.
These flaws could very well be microscopic, but when tuning a revolver, you make use of every advantage possible, unless good enough is, good enough. :mrgreen:
Finally, a different base pin can significantly enhance the appearance of a revolver.
https://beltmountain.com/order-form/
I also have never bought a replacement base pin, but I've owned revolvers where the base pin was replaced by a previous owner. 8)
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NikA
Buckeye
I think I've only had one that was an actual issue, on a Single 7. Wouldn't stay in under recoil. Necessitated a trip back to Ruger and an extra power latch spring, but could just as easily have been solved with a locking base pin.
I"m with 'hittman' in ALL the years, I 've owned, shot, worked on and sold Ruger single actions ( since the 1950s boys and girls) I've NEVER BOUGHT, and installed an aftermarket base pin, and yes I;ve met and know Kellye from Belt Mountain, and like the idea of a "improved" base?? gives a person an alternative, if THEY feel they have a problem or an issue, go for it, do NOT have to worry or fret if you are out in the backwoods, working your traps, hunting or just plain "plinking", and draw your firearm and find the base pin "fell out", worked itself "loose".. 8) :roll: :wink:
I now do remember seeing a base pin with just the stub so it could have a longer ejector stroke. I just looked it up and it is the Bearcat Shopkeeper. I'd forgotten all about it until I saw your pic. I stand correctedWAYNO said:
The only problem with the "stubbies" is that if you have a problem pulling the pin out there's very little to get hold of.
Fortunately, if you can get the hammer to full-cock you can usually tap on the back end of the pin to move it forward a bit.
Fortunately, if you can get the hammer to full-cock you can usually tap on the back end of the pin to move it forward a bit.
I wonder why cut the base pin on a Shopkeeper? The ejector rod end is designed to go around the base pin all the way to the frame.Cholo said:I now do remember seeing a base pin with just the stub so it could have a longer ejector stroke. I just looked it up and it is the Bearcat Shopkeeper. I'd forgotten all about it until I saw your pic. I stand correctedWAYNO said:
Fox Mike said:I wonder why cut the base pin on a Shopkeeper? The ejector rod end is designed to go around the base pin all the way to the frame.Cholo said:I now do remember seeing a base pin with just the stub so it could have a longer ejector stroke. I just looked it up and it is the Bearcat Shopkeeper. I'd forgotten all about it until I saw your pic. I stand correctedWAYNO said:
Another good question. On some of my "shorty" revolvers, it wouldn't be possible to completely remove the base pin if they didn't have the knob shortened or otherwise modified. This shouldn't apply to the Shorty Bearcat, as the entire knob can pass thru the ejector button as necessary.
And you know, it requires a little creativity to operate the ejector rod and not damage your fingers on these little Shopkeepers. A protruding base pin knob could hurt your thumb or finger if all of a sudden when the case let go from the chamber, your finger slammed against the end of the base pin where it passes thru the ejector button.
Further confounding...I just researched my photo archives to discover a previous Shopkeeper Bearcat without the shortened base pin. Apparently there is some evolution involved, and maybe there is no complete or logical answer.
WAYNO said:Further confounding...I just researched my photo archives to discover a previous Shopkeeper Bearcat without the shortened base pin. Apparently there is some evolution involved, and maybe there is no complete or logical answer.
I believe the blued Shopkeeper has a barrel that's 1/2" longer than the stainless Shopkeeper. Perhaps that extra 1/2" barrel length gives enough clearance that a standard style base pin head can be used? (Fox Mike still makes a valid point about the shape of the ejector rod button.)
On my stainless Shopkeeper, I'd rather go with the stubby base pin head and a standard shaped ejector rod button. The standard button looks better to my eye, no sharp "corner" as on that goofy trough-shaped button.
Another plus, at least for Ruger- is it possible that there is parts interchangeability between the base pin that Wayno shows, and the regular Bearcat base pin(?).
(Sorry if I'm contributing to a 'thread hijack.')
I had a New Model Vaquero in 45 Colt, the base pin would back out and lock up the cylinder with fairly light loads. I replaced the pin with a Belt Mountain one and the problem was solved additionally, it solved the problem without utilizing the locking set screw.
bisleyfan41
Blackhawk
I now do remember seeing a base pin with just the stub so it could have a longer ejector stroke. I just looked it up and it is the Bearcat Shopkeeper. I'd forgotten all about it until I saw your pic. I stand corrected
The one time I tried to use a shorter base pin, I found I would have had to also trim some coils from the ejector spring. Upon pressing the ejector rod, all the coils compressed and prevented the rod head from hitting the base pin head. The coils took up a lot of space. So,, I ditched the base pinI now do remember seeing a base pin with just the stub so it could have a longer ejector stroke. I just looked it up and it is the Bearcat Shopkeeper. I'd forgotten all about it until I saw your pic. I stand corrected
