Dating a specific-feature GP100 so I can search for one...

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Tallbald

Buckeye
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I've decided to begin searching for a tight, used 4 inch stainless GP100. It will be a CCW project gun, but the GP100 has had some changes in its' lifespan and I'm trying to nail down the last year with these two features I want. That way, if I have to go based on a serial number as might be the case with an online auction and few photos, I can determine if it has what I want. I'd be grateful if a collector or enthusiast here can help me identify the last year that GP100's had both of these characteristics please:

1) Cast not MIM trigger and hammer
2) Alignment pins under the star extractor

My 6 inch half shroud specimen has these things and it appears to have been made in 2003. So I'm guessing other 2003 models do too.
Thanks.
Don
 
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Don,
I'll do some searching today to see what I can come up with on change over dates. I know Ruger has been using MIM parts for a while and slowly made more and used more in their guns as the technology advanced.

But?
Are you maybe comparing MIM to forged? I do not have any problems with MIM parts. As long as they are done correctly they will hold up as well as any cast or forged parts but I realize that people have their druthers. Here's a few things to consider:

Although there are some variations in technique, the major difference between die casting and metal injection molding is that die casting uses some kind of metal, often an aluminum alloy or zinc alloy, as the raw material, while metal injection molding uses steel or other types of MIM alloys.

I'm not aware of any evidence that MIM handgun parts fail at a higher rate than forged or cast analogs. Smith & Wesson switched over to MIM internals nearly two decades ago and I've seen nothing published to suggest that their guns perform any less reliably now than did previous non-MIM models. There are, however, at least a few articles out there stating that MIM parts perform more consistently, and with fewer defects, than their forged and cast analogues.

Here's a real good article about MIM. It's a bit older so take into account the advances that metallurgy has taken in 12 years since this was written. https://todaysmachiningworld.com/magazine/how-it-works-metal-injection-molding/
 

Tallbald

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RoninPA thanks for the response. As a toolmaker I know that MIM has some advantages over cast. And the pins under the star are a nice traditional feature but likely not really necessary. Part of my preference really comes down to appearance for me though. My current GP100, the 6 inch stainless half-shroud I've mentioned has the two specific features and something in me just....likes them. Maybe it's tradition for me and little more. The gun I find will be a project gun. Likely I'll trim the barrel shroud a bit at the muzzle, polish the gun externally and a few other things too.
I'm sort of stuck in the 80's and 90's when I think of Ruger revolvers, much like some folks' are primarily interested in certain era Colts. Or, for example pinned Smiths (that's me again).
I'll read the article as it looks very interesting! Thanks again for the help! Don
 
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Don,
Here's what I found on my GP100's. Using these s/n's someone may be able to narrow it down even more

S/N 176-688XX, 06/2013, MIM trigger, extractor star/cylinder with pins

S/N 177-668XX, 2014, MIM trigger, extractor star/cylinder with out pins. I also noticed that the star is not circular like the ones with pins, the outline is more of an oval

S/N 176-266XX, 2011, Non-MIM trigger (cast)

Sorry, I don't have a GP100 from 2012 :(

I would make a WAG that you would want to look for a model with a S/N below 176-688XX. One below 176-266XX would definitely fit your bill.

Added: I believe the pins were used to make sure the star went back to the original position and fully seated into the cylinder if the ejector rod/star was worn and turned slightly. The new? oval shape essentially does the same thing plus it removes a few manufacturing steps and the cost of the pins.

What the pins were NOT for was for disassembling the cylinder assembly. It was always taught to place several empty cartridges in the sylinder before attempting to remove the ejector rod so that you wouldn't break the pins off.
 

Tallbald

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Excellent information! Thank you so very very much! I've made some local calls but no luck finding one. There's one as I want down in Florida on GB right now at $460 with $10 shipping, so add $25 for a local FFL to receive. Been quite a while since I've looked for this model, so I don't know what is a "market price" these days. Sadly my beautiful half shroud was.....$279 LNIB at a big show in Louisville, KY . But. That was 2004. Sheesh I'm outta touch. And old. And living in the past. I WILL find this gun though. And it WILL become my carry revolver.
Thanks again so very much! Don
 

32magfan

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Burkesville, KY
Good luck on your search, Don. I have a half shroud 4" DAO that is very slick. I found it at Franklin Gun Shop in TN 4-5 years ago for $450 IIRC.

32Magfan
 

Tallbald

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32magfan we are sorta neighbors as I'm over in Bowling Green since '79. I called several shops but none had a 4 inch GP100. All were very polite and each invited me to check again. Any suggestions over your way? I'll try calling a few in Russellville tomorrow just to see.
Don
 
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