How does one go about getting a taller front sight put on a SBH of '82 vintage. I need to shoot a powder puff load and can't get it to regulate...it tends to shoot close to 8 inches hi at 50 with rear sight screwed all the way down. The closest I can get is a load of 9gr Unique under a 240 Keith gc. The gun has got a 10.5" bbl and this is the first it's been shot. I have it's sister Max but that front is screwed on so that one will be simpler. Will Ruger do anything like put a screwed on sight so I can deal with this easier? Thanks for any help...
Question for the experienced
- Thread starter Chief 101
- Start date
Help Support Ruger Forum:
contender
Ruger Guru
Well, I'm assuming that it's a blue one and the front sight is silver soldered on. If a different front sight is installed, it will need heating, re-soldering, and then re-blueing.
A cheaper & easier option is to get a spare rear sight blade, and have a little filed off the top of the blade. That way you can keep the gun original by having the original rear blade available for re-installation.
A cheaper & easier option is to get a spare rear sight blade, and have a little filed off the top of the blade. That way you can keep the gun original by having the original rear blade available for re-installation.
woodperson
Single-Sixer
My inclination based on my experience would be to sight it in for full power loads and then just aim low with the slow ones. Maybe lowering the rear sight as suggested will give you enough. I fooled with a .41 mag for a long time and modified the front sight by adding a soldered, pinned brass rod to it. Thought I would use it with a ghost site. Then I put a reflex on it on one of the no drill mounts. For my very old eyes now that is the way it will stay, I think. Every once in a long while I pull the reflex off and retry the ghost sites. Back to the reflex even though it somewhat offends me.
As you have figured out there is just not a lot you can do without a serious modification to the gun. Maybe shoot lighter bullets.
As you have figured out there is just not a lot you can do without a serious modification to the gun. Maybe shoot lighter bullets.
Thanks for the replies. These sights are fine for full house loads, just not what I want...
I've been thru this before with shorter barreled revolvers. I do have some rear sight blades the I made that I can modify, and I have other short ones installed in other revolver I can try. After more than 40k full house rounds thru the 70's and 80's I no longer long to shoot full house 44 Mag ammo. What was it somebody said,"Carpal Tunnel one shot at a time."? I finally realize where my bad wrists came from. My objective is Silhouette competition on steel out to 100 yards offhand....using 1/4 size targets...so power isn't a major part of the game.
I've been thru this before with shorter barreled revolvers. I do have some rear sight blades the I made that I can modify, and I have other short ones installed in other revolver I can try. After more than 40k full house rounds thru the 70's and 80's I no longer long to shoot full house 44 Mag ammo. What was it somebody said,"Carpal Tunnel one shot at a time."? I finally realize where my bad wrists came from. My objective is Silhouette competition on steel out to 100 yards offhand....using 1/4 size targets...so power isn't a major part of the game.
woodperson
Single-Sixer
Then maybe you need to go ahead and modify the gun. I do know that it is possible to soft solder a brass riser to the front sight without harming the blueing except on the top of the sight. I went ahead and both soldered and pinned mine. I have heard of having a slot for a replaceable sight milled.
Hondo44
Hawkeye
I think contender's rear sight blade replacement with a shorter one is the absolute easiest and best solution. That's what I've done when faced with the same dilemma.
I agree Hondo but I just don't think it will be enough adjustment. I already have blades that I have ground down flat across the top, If I can get close I can always grind a little v in the top of the blade with a little notch in the middle. With the long sight radius and the amount I want to come down. I might go see if I can find John Taffin and see what he knows about adjusting loads to compensate also....I have a couple different 44 cal molds...the simplest being trading blades from other blackhawks...It's a ways off with what I have tried for loads so far...thanks
Hondo44
Hawkeye
Chief,
Following the premise that you do not want to make any permanent modifications to the gun, you could get another entire rear sight, remove the blade completely and file a rear notch in the curves of the blade holder. Ruger will send you parts for free that are under $20 which a rear sight is: call (336) 949-5200. The current sights with the Ruger bird imprint are all steel as well.
Front sight replacing to increase height:
If you don't mind a modification to the gun, Ruger will send you just a 45 Colt blue sight blade (.440" high) and a pin to mill in the base.
You can cut the blade off, neatly level the surface, cut a 1/2 moon slot if you have a little skill with a Dremel tool using a carborundum cut off wheel*. Make it snug so you a slight "interference" or "press" fit and drive the blade in with a brass punch. That may be all you have to do, or clamp sight in the groove, drill thru and install pin. Or have the slot milled locally.
The trick, is to clamp the Dremel tool horizontally in a vise and use it like a bench grinder. And hold the gun. Because the gun is so heavy, it's much easier to hold it steadier than the rotating Dremel tool.
Ruger's front sights are silver brazed on and take so much heat to remove, the bluing is ruined on the front half of the barrel.
If you want to change the front sight and base to one that screws on, call Ruger and get a 45 Colt short barrel front sight/base and a screw for the Super single six front sight. Then you can grind off the current sight/base. Tape the barrel with that thin aluminum tape around the sight base to protect the barrel bluing. Grind off the sight, switch to a dremel tool or file being very careful as you get down close to the tape. When you get down to the curvature of the barrel and the layer of silver solder, you're done.
Clamp or tape securely the replacement new taller sight over the ground area of the original sight. Drill thru the sight base with a # 33 drill being careful not to go thru the barrel into the bore. Remove the sight, tap the hole in the barrel for the 6-40 Ruger screw. Re-drill the hole in the sight to pass the #6 screw, and countersink the hole for the screw cap diameter.
Sight it in with your load by filing down the new sight blade if needed.
*A stack of 1" diam abrasive discs are sold in a tube wherever Dremel tools are sold. These black ones are .020", and the brown ones are .032" if I recall:
from here: https://www.google.com/search?biw=1139&bih=767&tbm=shop&ei=lf64XZuOBsHwsQXUmZ24DA&q=dremel+cut+off+bit&oq=dremel+cut+off+bit&gs_l=psy-ab-sh.12...16342.23108.0.26229.12.12.0.0.0.0.121.1321.0j12.12.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab-sh..0.2.218...0i13k1.0.YNe2jgwzPE8#spd=14050369673805513113
I use different size combinations to get the slot size I need.
One secret is using a "steady rest" next to the vise holding the dremel. This supports the weight of the gun and also provides a surface to rest your hands on while guiding the sight base into the cut off disc. A board clamped to your work surface works well. You need scribed lines on the sight base to follow to get the groove centered in the sight base. The main secret is to use gunsmith glasses to be able to see that the disc is aligned with your scribed lines Use your master shooting eye and cover the other lens with tape. You have to get too close to the work for both eyes to focus that close. Most importantly; you need a little practice.
A gunsmith will of course use a milling machine which eliminates the required skill. I have a milling machine but the set up time for these small tasks will kill ya, and then there's buying cutters. The time required for set up is what drives up the gunsmith cost. And you won't find any with the skill to cut with a dremel.
After you get the depth of your groove cut. Run a dressing stone (like used to dress a grinding wheel) against the cut off discs for a couple of seconds. That will square up the corners of the cut off discs then run it in once more to sharpen up the corners at the bottom of the mortise (1/2 moon groove) in the sight base. Or just round the edges on the sight blade tenon that fits in the base groove for a nice snug fit. Clamp the blade in place in the base groove and drill the cross pin hole thru both pieces and install the retention pin.
Any questions just ask,
Following the premise that you do not want to make any permanent modifications to the gun, you could get another entire rear sight, remove the blade completely and file a rear notch in the curves of the blade holder. Ruger will send you parts for free that are under $20 which a rear sight is: call (336) 949-5200. The current sights with the Ruger bird imprint are all steel as well.
Front sight replacing to increase height:
If you don't mind a modification to the gun, Ruger will send you just a 45 Colt blue sight blade (.440" high) and a pin to mill in the base.
You can cut the blade off, neatly level the surface, cut a 1/2 moon slot if you have a little skill with a Dremel tool using a carborundum cut off wheel*. Make it snug so you a slight "interference" or "press" fit and drive the blade in with a brass punch. That may be all you have to do, or clamp sight in the groove, drill thru and install pin. Or have the slot milled locally.
The trick, is to clamp the Dremel tool horizontally in a vise and use it like a bench grinder. And hold the gun. Because the gun is so heavy, it's much easier to hold it steadier than the rotating Dremel tool.
Ruger's front sights are silver brazed on and take so much heat to remove, the bluing is ruined on the front half of the barrel.
If you want to change the front sight and base to one that screws on, call Ruger and get a 45 Colt short barrel front sight/base and a screw for the Super single six front sight. Then you can grind off the current sight/base. Tape the barrel with that thin aluminum tape around the sight base to protect the barrel bluing. Grind off the sight, switch to a dremel tool or file being very careful as you get down close to the tape. When you get down to the curvature of the barrel and the layer of silver solder, you're done.
Clamp or tape securely the replacement new taller sight over the ground area of the original sight. Drill thru the sight base with a # 33 drill being careful not to go thru the barrel into the bore. Remove the sight, tap the hole in the barrel for the 6-40 Ruger screw. Re-drill the hole in the sight to pass the #6 screw, and countersink the hole for the screw cap diameter.
Sight it in with your load by filing down the new sight blade if needed.
*A stack of 1" diam abrasive discs are sold in a tube wherever Dremel tools are sold. These black ones are .020", and the brown ones are .032" if I recall:
from here: https://www.google.com/search?biw=1139&bih=767&tbm=shop&ei=lf64XZuOBsHwsQXUmZ24DA&q=dremel+cut+off+bit&oq=dremel+cut+off+bit&gs_l=psy-ab-sh.12...16342.23108.0.26229.12.12.0.0.0.0.121.1321.0j12.12.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab-sh..0.2.218...0i13k1.0.YNe2jgwzPE8#spd=14050369673805513113
I use different size combinations to get the slot size I need.
One secret is using a "steady rest" next to the vise holding the dremel. This supports the weight of the gun and also provides a surface to rest your hands on while guiding the sight base into the cut off disc. A board clamped to your work surface works well. You need scribed lines on the sight base to follow to get the groove centered in the sight base. The main secret is to use gunsmith glasses to be able to see that the disc is aligned with your scribed lines Use your master shooting eye and cover the other lens with tape. You have to get too close to the work for both eyes to focus that close. Most importantly; you need a little practice.
A gunsmith will of course use a milling machine which eliminates the required skill. I have a milling machine but the set up time for these small tasks will kill ya, and then there's buying cutters. The time required for set up is what drives up the gunsmith cost. And you won't find any with the skill to cut with a dremel.
After you get the depth of your groove cut. Run a dressing stone (like used to dress a grinding wheel) against the cut off discs for a couple of seconds. That will square up the corners of the cut off discs then run it in once more to sharpen up the corners at the bottom of the mortise (1/2 moon groove) in the sight base. Or just round the edges on the sight blade tenon that fits in the base groove for a nice snug fit. Clamp the blade in place in the base groove and drill the cross pin hole thru both pieces and install the retention pin.
Any questions just ask,
JStacy
Blackhawk
There is a formula on Brownell's site to sight in a gun and gives how much you will need to raise the font sight or lower the rear sight.
You can also try a 215 cast bullet and slightly slower burning powder, both of which will lower you POI.
You can also try a 215 cast bullet and slightly slower burning powder, both of which will lower you POI.
I have been looking for the formula you mention...I have shot 220 gr cast with light loads of 231 to heavy loads of H110 and 4227 without enough gain. Now I have light loads under 300 cast, and Trail Boss under 240 K. We'll see where that takes me. Now off to Brownell's
I found the formula and for an 8" impact change at 50 yds it takes lowering the rear sight .05". I can do that with a rear sight blade after I find the load I want to use...I have about .075 I can remove. I'll post the results of my next workout.
Grinding down the rear sight insert worked fine for shooting cowboy action type loads and in making a new insert I was able to size the slot where I wanted it. Unfortunately I rather be shooting heavier loads where the original sights work fine but not something I can do. I shot many tens of thousands of max loaded 44Mag rounds thru the '70s and '80s and that has rendered my wrists somewhat damaged. For future reference tho, it is possible to make a major change in impact with the alteration of the rear sight insert. I have to send 44M down the road. Thanks for all the ideas...
already been there, Sierra 180's and 200 Cast...loaded from small amounts of Unique to max loads of WW296. The max loads were so violent they brought a smile to young buff guys faces when the shot 'em, and the lighter loads worked fine with the home made sight insert...I just don't need the abuse to my wrists anymore...I altered this project to use a 30Carbine Blackhawk that I bought in the '60s...I just have to make sure everybody has their ear protection on...s4s4u said:
pete44ru
Hunter
.
I would shape and epoxy a taller front sight extension atop/over the existing front sight blade.
If/when it has to be removed, a little heat from a soldering iron will melt the epoxy, making removal & cleanup E-Z-Peazy.
.
I would shape and epoxy a taller front sight extension atop/over the existing front sight blade.
If/when it has to be removed, a little heat from a soldering iron will melt the epoxy, making removal & cleanup E-Z-Peazy.
.
