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 Post subject: Hammer Swap
PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2019 4:04 pm 
Bearcat

Joined: Sat Sep 09, 2017 5:34 pm
Posts: 34
Thinking about a SBH hammer for my 44 Special Flat Top. Would fitting be required or is it a drop in.
Wanted to add, its a XR3 frame w/o safety lock.


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 Post subject: Re: Hammer Swap
PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2019 4:27 pm 
Single-Sixer

Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 3:54 pm
Posts: 103
Here's a New Vaquero I swapped in a SBH hammer to. I also replaced the 5.5" barrel and removed the lock.

Image

Image


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 Post subject: Re: Hammer Swap
PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:22 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Fri Apr 03, 2009 7:01 pm
Posts: 7119
Location: People's Republik of Kalifornia
Dumbear wrote:
Thinking about a SBH hammer for my 44 Special Flat Top. Would fitting be required or is it a drop in.
Wanted to add, its a XR3 frame w/o safety lock.


Done this numerous times, 99.9% of the time it's a drop in. In the rare case you have an issue, just let me know so I can help. You might need some slight relief at the very top to keep it from hitting adj sight.

Image

Also using the NV Montado checkered hammer. With its slightly larger base it will fit flush with the grip frame ears on both sides of the hammer base:

Image

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Ruger single action "collector, accumulator, builder and shooter"
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 Post subject: Re: Hammer Swap
PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:34 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2004 1:01 am
Posts: 9688
Location: Memphis, TN USA
My .44 Special Flat Top came with a stainless steel hammer. I replaced that with a blued steel hammer from a Blackhawk. Same situation as if it were a Super Blackhawck hammer.

Bob Wright

P.S. As to "drop in" fits, I've never encountered that. All require disassembly and re-assembly of the revolver. :D :D


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 Post subject: Re: Hammer Swap
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2019 4:51 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Fri Apr 03, 2009 7:01 pm
Posts: 7119
Location: People's Republik of Kalifornia
SHORTCUT FOR REMOVING JUST HAMMER and/or PAWL in New Models:

Recognize, when JUST NEEDING to remove the hammer and/or pawl, you do not need to hassle with the PESKY LOADING GATE SPRING, pull the trigger pin, nor trigger/transfer bar. Once you remove the grip frame, the hammer pin is the only other part you need to remove. After that, just pull the hammer back and all the way down, then depress the hammer plunger up into the base of the hammer with a small tipped screwdriver to clear the trigger extension with hole in it where the transfer bar connects to it. Let the hammer & pawl fall back, down and out. Reinstall the hammer and pawl back in the same way they came out. Push the plunger in by pushing it against the trigger extension just like you did with the tip of the small screwdriver, and the hammer will slip by the trigger extension. Piece o’ cake.

NOTE: Occasionally a hammer change that doesn't cock or just barely cocks is because it's hitting the back of the slot in the grip frame. I have had to slightly lengthen the slot with a few file strokes.
If either the trigger or hammer pin are snug fits, after they’re removed the first time, it’s the opportunity to polish them so they’re slip fits to put back in and remove the next time.

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Jim
Ruger single action "collector, accumulator, builder and shooter"
NRA Life
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SASS Life
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 Post subject: Re: Hammer Swap
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2019 8:27 pm 
Buckeye
User avatar

Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2005 2:01 am
Posts: 1725
Location: Philadelphia, PA, USA
What I encountered on both my Super Hammer swaps was transfer bar clearance. I needed to file off a small bit from the hammer faces to get sufficient strikes on the transfer bar. The hammer faces were striking the frames before sufficiently hitting the bars.

How to check:
1. Unload the revolver and double check that it's unloaded
With old hammer in place:
2. Remove the cylinder and then slide the cylinder pin back into position.
3. Cock the hammer
4. With thumb on the hammer, pull the trigger and ease the hammer all the way down, while keeping the trigger pulled back
5. Look inside the cylinder frame and note how much the firing pin is protruding. Assuming you have had good strikes up to this point, this is how much you want the firing pin to protrude.

6. Install the new hammer
7. Repeat Steps 1-5.
8. If the firing pin protrudes the same amount as with the original hammer, you're done and ready for live-fire testing. If not, or you get misfires, go on to Step 9.

9. With a fine-tooth metal file, dress the face of the hammer that strikes the frame below the rear sight only a couple strokes. Repeat Steps 1-9 until the protrusion matches that with the old hammer.

Mine needed only a few strokes and they were good. You do not want to take too much off and start peeing the transfer bar or mashing it enough to cause it to break through work-hardening, which has been known to happen.

Good luck.

Aqualung

_________________
"...Somewhere there are Brownings in a two-hand hold,
Cocked and locked, one up the spout..."
- Jethro Tull


Last edited by Aqualung on Wed Aug 07, 2019 7:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Hammer Swap
PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2019 4:43 pm 
Blackhawk
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 2:01 am
Posts: 506
Location: Cary NC USA
I didn’t think the Montado hammers were available from Ruger, or has that changed since I last checked?
Or did you swap with an existing Montado?


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 Post subject: Re: Hammer Swap
PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 1:18 am 
Hawkeye

Joined: Fri Apr 03, 2009 7:01 pm
Posts: 7119
Location: People's Republik of Kalifornia
black029 wrote:
I didn’t think the Montado hammers were available from Ruger, or has that changed since I last checked?
Or did you swap with an existing Montado?


It hasn't changed, they just don't have any more.

When the Montado was 1st introduced I ordered 1/2 a dozen. Now you can only get then from Powers Custom or used.

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Jim
Ruger single action "collector, accumulator, builder and shooter"
NRA Life
CRPA Life
CRPC Life
SASS Life
SWCA
RCA


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