Hammer Swap

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Dumbear

Bearcat
Joined
Sep 9, 2017
Messages
51
Thinking about a SBH hammer for my 44 Special Flat Top. Would fitting be required or is it a drop in.
Wanted to add, its a XR3 frame w/o safety lock.
 

z1r

Single-Sixer
Joined
Feb 11, 2016
Messages
121
Here's a New Vaquero I swapped in a SBH hammer to. I also replaced the 5.5" barrel and removed the lock.

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HLhGmceh.jpg
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
8,040
Location
People's Republik of California
Dumbear said:
Thinking about a SBH hammer for my 44 Special Flat Top. Would fitting be required or is it a drop in.
Wanted to add, its a XR3 frame w/o safety lock.

Done this numerous times, 99.9% of the time it's a drop in. In the rare case you have an issue, just let me know so I can help. You might need some slight relief at the very top to keep it from hitting adj sight.

orig.jpg


Also using the NV Montado checkered hammer. With its slightly larger base it will fit flush with the grip frame ears on both sides of the hammer base:

orig.jpg
 

Bob Wright

Hawkeye
Joined
Jun 24, 2004
Messages
7,686
Location
Memphis, TN USA
My .44 Special Flat Top came with a stainless steel hammer. I replaced that with a blued steel hammer from a Blackhawk. Same situation as if it were a Super Blackhawck hammer.

Bob Wright

P.S. As to "drop in" fits, I've never encountered that. All require disassembly and re-assembly of the revolver. :D :D
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
8,040
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People's Republik of California
SHORTCUT FOR REMOVING JUST HAMMER and/or PAWL in New Models:

Recognize, when JUST NEEDING to remove the hammer and/or pawl, you do not need to hassle with the PESKY LOADING GATE SPRING, pull the trigger pin, nor trigger/transfer bar. Once you remove the grip frame, the hammer pin is the only other part you need to remove. After that, just pull the hammer back and all the way down, then depress the hammer plunger up into the base of the hammer with a small tipped screwdriver to clear the trigger extension with hole in it where the transfer bar connects to it. Let the hammer & pawl fall back, down and out. Reinstall the hammer and pawl back in the same way they came out. Push the plunger in by pushing it against the trigger extension just like you did with the tip of the small screwdriver, and the hammer will slip by the trigger extension. Piece o' cake.

NOTE: Occasionally a hammer change that doesn't cock or just barely cocks is because it's hitting the back of the slot in the grip frame. I have had to slightly lengthen the slot with a few file strokes.
If either the trigger or hammer pin are snug fits, after they're removed the first time, it's the opportunity to polish them so they're slip fits to put back in and remove the next time.
 

Aqualung

Blackhawk
Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Messages
823
Location
Philadelphia, PA, USA
What I encountered on both my Super Hammer swaps was transfer bar clearance. I needed to file off a small bit from the hammer faces to get sufficient strikes on the transfer bar. The hammer faces were striking the frames before sufficiently hitting the bars.

How to check:
1. Unload the revolver and double check that it's unloaded
With old hammer in place:
2. Remove the cylinder and then slide the cylinder pin back into position.
3. Cock the hammer
4. With thumb on the hammer, pull the trigger and ease the hammer all the way down, while keeping the trigger pulled back
5. Look inside the cylinder frame and note how much the firing pin is protruding. Assuming you have had good strikes up to this point, this is how much you want the firing pin to protrude.

6. Install the new hammer
7. Repeat Steps 1-5.
8. If the firing pin protrudes the same amount as with the original hammer, you're done and ready for live-fire testing. If not, or you get misfires, go on to Step 9.

9. With a fine-tooth metal file, dress the face of the hammer that strikes the frame below the rear sight only a couple strokes. Repeat Steps 1-9 until the protrusion matches that with the old hammer.

Mine needed only a few strokes and they were good. You do not want to take too much off and start peeing the transfer bar or mashing it enough to cause it to break through work-hardening, which has been known to happen.

Good luck.

Aqualung
 

black029

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Messages
439
Location
Cary NC USA
I didn't think the Montado hammers were available from Ruger, or has that changed since I last checked?
Or did you swap with an existing Montado?
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
8,040
Location
People's Republik of California
black029 said:
I didn't think the Montado hammers were available from Ruger, or has that changed since I last checked?
Or did you swap with an existing Montado?

It hasn't changed, they just don't have any more.

When the Montado was 1st introduced I ordered 1/2 a dozen. Now you can only get then from Powers Custom or used.
 
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