needsmostuff said:
As the key is unavailable (and apparently deemed a bad idea ) from Ruger do they ( or anyone else ) make any conversion parts to remove that worthless hunk of weight.
Well they do, but just don't know it.
All you need is a bearcat spring seat and they'll send you a free one, just call 336-949-5200 and ask for part # PR5.
Photo by Varminterror
The beauty of the Bearcat spring seat is that it disassembles the same way as the lock with the disassembly pin hole right below the spring so the spring never has to be dismounted from its strut, which can be a gruesome task for many.
To swap the Bearcat spring seat for the lock is the easiest swap there is. You don't even need to remove the grip frame, just the grips! After cocking the hammer, a disassembly pin like a nail is inserted into the spring strut hole thru the groove in the top edge of the lock. Now uncock the hammer so the spring and strut have play. This allows the lock to be wedged up and out of the grip frame, and off of the strut. Because the temporary pin used to hold the spring compressed, fits in the groove on the top of the lock, the spring is still captured on the strut.
Therefore the strut and spring assembly doesn't need removal from the hammer slot. More importantly, nor does the spring need to be dismounted from the strut like Ruger SAs w/o the lock, where the disassembly pin is inserted below the spring seat which is captured on the strut along with the spring.
With the regular spring seats captured on the strut with the spring, the grip frame must be removed or at least loosened to change spring weights. It's also more difficult to mount a spring and a seat on the strut, rather than just a spring.
Now once the lock is out of the grip frame, the Bearcat seat slips on the bottom end of the strut below the spring retaining pin. The Bearcat seat also has a round hole in it for the end of the strut, so once on the strut, it can be pivoted 90 degrees, strut and seat moved into position over the gap in the grip frame where the lock was, then pivoted 90 degrees onto the two shelves of the gap.
Now hold in place, cock the hammer, remove the spring retaining pin, and drop the hammer. Voila, all done. The seat doesn't overhang the gap where the lock was very much on either side but once the spring tension is applied, the seat is held tightly in place.