GP100 Dissassembly Problem

I have one of the 5 inch GP100 44 Specials and can't take it down for cleaning/lubrication after my first range session. Grips are off; mainspring is out; but the hammer pivot refuses to budge. The manual says hold the trigger back to remove the pivot; that doesn't help. I have even tried encouraging it to move with a plastic hammer to no avail.
The hammer pivot on my 3 inch model will easily rotate inside the slot on the frame and pushes out easily with light finger pressure. Any ideas on what to try before calling Ruger?
Tony

Welcome to the Forum.
No, I do not know the answer to your question. Sorry.

But, I do wonder why anybody would take one apart for cleaning. That's just me though.

It could be that it is just very tight. If you have a nylon punch (or brass) you might be able to convince it to come out. This is where a bench block would help as you could lay the GP on it's side with the hammer pivot over the side so there is clearance when you whack it. Once it's out, see how easily it goes back in. If tight (you have to tap it a little with your hammer) that not necessarily a bad thing. If you have to hit it HARD to get it to go back in, then you might want to polish it a little bit to make it install easier. BUT, be careful if you do this, you don't want it overly loose, even though the grips do hold it in place.

I agree with hittman, why the complete disassembly to clean it? Now if you had been disassembling it the first time to make sure there was nothing left behind from the factory (I always do this on any new gun before I shoot it for the first time) then that is a different matter.

Once you get the mainspring out the hammer pivot should push right out.

Ruger 'Tech Tips' videos for revolvers.

http://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=131271069&cat=3769277

Mine was stuck pretty good when it was new, I think the hammer shims help to hang it up. I used a brass punch to knock mine out, it was never an issue after the initial removal.

Fellas; thanks for the tips. This is the initial cleaning after the first range session, so I would like to take it down to clean anything left behind from machining/assembly. I also want to put some grease on all the trigger engagement areas. It is definitely very tight, and I can't budge it by hand or with a plastic hammer. I may wait for a few more range sessions before trying the brass punch, but I figured that would be the next step. Also; thanks for the welcome. I have been a member here for years but had to register again. Tony

I also want to put some grease on all the trigger engagement areas.

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Why, praytell?

To make things run more smoothly and with less friction.
Tony

Put it back together and shoot it.
There's no need to detail strip any firearm, unless you're going to replace a part.

I just spray my guns out with Hornady's Gun Cleaner And Lube.
It flushes all that garbage out and leaves a film of lubricant. Takes 10 minutes to clean a gun.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014743837/hornady-one-shot-gun-cleaner-with-dyna-glide-plus-5-1-2-oz-aerosol

jbntx said:

Put it back together and shoot it.
There's no need to detail strip any firearm, unless you're going to replace a part.

I just spray my guns out with Hornady's Gun Cleaner And Lube.
It flushes all that garbage out and leaves a film of lubricant. Takes 10 minutes to clean a gun.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014743837/hornady-one-shot-gun-cleaner-with-dyna-glide-plus-5-1-2-oz-aerosol

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I have to disagree slightly.

Collectively, over the past few years, we've been seeing more and more new guns, from all the manufacturers, not just Ruger, that have not been cleaned up as good as they should have been after being built. Extraneous matter in the workings that does not get cleaned out can do more harm than good if not removed. I now detail strip, inspect, clean, and lube all my new guns before shooting them to make sure any/all detritus is removed. I also look for any machining marks/burrs that might be present that could/would affect the performance of the gun (or that could cause damage to one's hands when firing).

RoninPA said:

I now detail strip, inspect, clean, and lube all my new guns before shooting them to make sure any/all detritus is removed. I also look for any machining marks/burrs that might be present that could/would affect the performance of the gun (or that could cause damage to one's hands when firing).

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That is also my process on any gun that is new or even "new to me".

Sometimes it is amazing what the factory left laying about inside the works.

And I like a little grease in all the right places.

My 3" had the very same condition.

As another said, I had to use an appropriate hammer / punch.

After that, it was clear sailing.

I probably did not need to totally disassemble it, but this is one of the reasons I love Ruger DA wheelies.

I find it fun and relaxing (long intervals of course) to be able to break down these revolvers.

Anthony thumbs up to tearing down and cleaning. I may not tear clear down, but it will go far enough to see every nook and cranny.

Over the years I don't know how many shotguns, rifles and pistols I have torn down because they were "broke" and would not function. Majority was from the blast out out with cleaner and spray lube. All the gunk will build in places over time. Then there is putting lube where lube doesn't belong, which may and does accumulate powder residues.
;-)
Jeff

I would dry-fire the poop out of the gun then apply some WD40 to that area and use the brass punch to knock it out. Maybe use the punch on the side with the oblong stop to seemingly drive it in further, then flip to the other side and try to drive it out.
Then remove all traces of the WD40, which you obviously will when you detail clean it.
My hammer pivots always try to back out. Never seen one act like yours.

black029 said:

My hammer pivots always try to back out. Never seen one act like yours.

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Wait till the OP gets to the trigger guard latch. That will probably be stuck also as many are from the factory. It's always something.

Jimbo357mag said:

black029 said:

My hammer pivots always try to back out. Never seen one act like yours.

Click to expand...

Wait till the OP gets to the trigger guard latch. That will probably be stuck also as many are from the factory. It's always something.

Click to expand...

At least there aren't any screws to booger up. Other than rear sight. And yeah, there is always something

Jimbo357mag said:

Wait till the OP gets to the trigger guard latch. That will probably be stuck also as many are from the factory. It's always something.

Click to expand...

Yeah, they can be a real struggle the first time and a bit tricky even after that. I don't remember where I got it but someone here sells a modified (read: bent) screwdriver that is shaped to reach through the hammer slot and depress the latch. It does help.

Jimbo357mag said:

I don't remember where I got it but someone here sells a modified (read: bent) screwdriver that is shaped to reach through the hammer slot and depress the latch. It does help.

Click to expand...

I believe that would be RugerForum member "GP100man."

I don't know if he is still making the "Ruger popper" tools, but at least he has been on the board recently.

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=75884&hilit=Popper&start=0