RugerForum.com

This is a Ruger Firearms enthusiast's forum, but it is in no way affiliated with, nor does it represent Sturm Ruger & Company Inc. of Southport, CT.
It is currently Tue Oct 27, 2020 5:35 am

All times are UTC - 7 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 82 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 7:46 am 
Buckeye

Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:40 pm
Posts: 1166
I'm really enjoying this thread, thanks for taking time to post it.
Now about that cheap-ass made in China dti...........ah, never mind,
I have a couple of also.
Dave


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 1:14 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 1:01 am
Posts: 17748
Location: Milo Maine
Thank You very much Lee. ps

_________________
A gun is like a parachute.
If you need one, and don't have one, you'll probably never need one again.

Guns have only two enemies; Rust & Politicians

Buy American Give Your Neighbor A Job!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 6:46 pm 
Hunter
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
Image

I start by rough facing the end of the barrel. This isn’t the final end pass however; that’ll come when I set the cylinder gap.

Image

A depth mic is used to measure the front of the frame to the cylinder face. This one mic’d 0.641”. I’ll turn the shank to that exact length, 0.690” o.d.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Ruger frames are 24 tpi. Since Blackhawk barrel inlets are countersunk, there’s no need for a relief cut before the shoulder. The depth of compound feed for a single form vee tool is 0.036”. Total depth on the compound then equals ~0.072”. This is a rough approximation though. Ultimately, the frame dictates how deep I’ll have to go to obtain nice, tight mating.

Image

Image

Using a cutting bit, I lathed off the first two threads. Otherwise, these would show through the frame window.

Image

Image

Testing the frame on the threaded barrel - this one turned out perfect. It was snug but had no bind or tight spots.

Image

The forcing cone - there are a lot of theories around which style works best. The angle isn’t an exact science, as long as it isn’t too shallow or too steep. 5 to 15 degree cones work, but we normally use 11 degrees. I don’t like deep forcing cones and I’m not a fan of throating. My throats are properly indicated and the cylinder is rigid in battery. Big forcing cones and free-bore only do two things well: 1) They correct poor alignment, and 2) They eliminate choke. My dad summed it up best. If the cylinder-to-bore alignment is dead nuts and the cylinder doesn’t move, get the bullet into the lands ASAP.

The compound feed is moved to 11 degrees and a boring bar is mounted.

Image

Image

A close-up of the shallow 11-degree cone prior to polishing. It was hard to take a crisp picture of it due to poor lighting, metal bits, and oil.

Image

The barrel is screwed into the frame and as expected, the shank just touched the cylinder face. I removed it and faced 0.002” off the end. The barrel was re-installed, verifying a 0.002” cylinder gap.

Image

Image

Two things to note:

1) Since I haven’t drilled the ejector hole or installed a sight, I’m not bound by thread timing. From what I understand, Ruger adds the front sight and drills the housing hole prior to final installation. If the thread timing isn’t perfect, they’re chasing TDC on the sight when torqueing. This is why barrel choke is so common in today’s Blackhawks.

2) Step 19’s barrel indication – again, if this is off, the threading and cone will show runout to the throat. Line-boring and line-indexing only work if the barrel is installed with precision alignment between the bore’s axis and the frame inlet.

_________________
-Lee
Image
"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 6:11 pm 
Hunter
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
Image

Using the process described in step 19, the muzzle is indicated in the chuck. I marked 6.100” on the blank and cut it to length.

Image

The extra 0.100” is faced and a small crown is machined. On a bore this big, I don’t usually lathe a wide, square crown. It just creates unsightly, thin sidewalls. Instead, a mild instep was made, which is plenty for this 500. It won't be bounced off rocks.

Image

Image

Before installing the ejector housing and milling the front sight, I’ll test fire the gun. That’ll happen this weekend with 505 gr LFNs of my design. These were cast on a Mountain mold and lubed with Alox. Alox may not be the prettiest lube, but it flows beautifully and stays put.

Image

I poured a few boxes of these on Sunday.

Image

Image

_________________
-Lee
Image
"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 9:28 am 
Blackhawk

Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2009 4:13 pm
Posts: 844
Location: North Dakota
Love this thread!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 2:30 pm 
Single-Sixer

Joined: Sun Aug 30, 2009 10:08 am
Posts: 244
Location: Glendale, Az.
Lee I really look forward to this thread your doing thanks for sharing. Question are your revolvers for sale or just for a hobby?

_________________
Huge Ruger fan
NRA Benefactor Life
United States Navy Gulf War Veteran


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 6:31 pm 
Hunter
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
VernTMG wrote:
Lee I really look forward to this thread your doing thanks for sharing. Question are your revolvers for sale or just for a hobby?


Glad you've enjoyed it. We don't do gunsmithing as a business for a couple of reasons: 1) Dad and I don't hold an FFL, and 2) Our day jobs keep us plenty busy. Thanks for asking though.

_________________
-Lee
Image
"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:29 am 
Bearcat

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:50 pm
Posts: 92
Location: Louisiana
great stuff! thank you for sharing.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 6:18 pm 
Hunter
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
Image

I didn’t get a chance to shoot the gun last Saturday. But I did mill the front sight and install the ejector housing.
My eyes take to contrast between the rear notch and front blade. That's why I make my sights out of aluminum. I start by cutting a piece of aluminum square stock.

Image

The ends are faced in a Bridgeport.

Image

Using the same endmill, the sides are trimmed to form the blade.

Image

The rear portion is hogged out, setting the blade’s length. Tilting the sight forward allows for the rear ramp to be milled.

Image

The barrel is 0.800” in diameter. Holding the sight vertically in a vise, the underside is radiused.

Image

Spotting the sight for the screw hole.

Image

The hole after drilling and recessing.

Image

The ejector housing is mocked on the barrel and the table is positioned. It’s critical to have the ejector firmly pressed against the frame when you indicate the hole.

Image

Drilling and tapping for the ejector screw.

Image

Image

Lastly, the front sight is positioned on the barrel. Once affixed, the table is moved until the sight touches the muzzle end. In the below photo, you’ll see the barrel overhangs by about a 0.100”. To remove this, the table is dialed to the left so the sight is flush.

Image

The table is locked and the hole is drilled and tapped. Later, the sight will be sanded to remove the machine marks. I’ll also round the front edge on a belt sander.

Image

It’ll go bang on Saturday. Using the 505 LFN, I’ll try two loads - 14.0 of HS6 and 26.0 of H110.

_________________
-Lee
Image
"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 11:49 am 
Hunter
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
Image

The front sight was polished in three phases. The first was with 400 grit sandpaper. This removed the major machine marks, but left scratches. 800 grit paper knocked those down. Final polishing was done with Simichrome and steel wool.

Image

Image

Image

_________________
-Lee
Image
"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 5:54 pm 
Blackhawk

Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2008 5:06 am
Posts: 583
Wow can't wait for tomorrow!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 7:09 pm 
Newly Registered

Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:30 pm
Posts: 16
I AM STOKED!!!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 6:29 pm 
Hunter
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
Image

With 800 grit sandpaper, I removed any scratches made during the build. For reference, a used piece of 800 approximates Ruger’s brushed finish. All screws were secured with blue Loctite. A line was also placed on the underside of the ejector housing for added support.

The completed gun, which shot well on Saturday.

Image

Image

_________________
-Lee
Image
"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 10:40 pm 
Hunter

Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2003 1:01 am
Posts: 2913
Location: So. Ca.
Beautiful. A work of art.
Thank you. Eric


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 9:31 am 
Newly Registered

Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:30 pm
Posts: 16
Epic!

Thank you for sharing your craftsmanship!


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 82 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next

All times are UTC - 7 hours [ DST ]


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group