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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2017 8:15 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2007 4:40 pm
Posts: 8063
Location: Dallas, TX
Awesome looking job!

Wonder what Ruger would say if we started to demand polished frame windows?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2017 8:35 pm 
Hunter
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Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
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Prior to the cylinder build and re-timing, there are parts to amass. I won't do a conversion until I have the final components. Below you'll find:

1) Power Custom oversized bolt - I'll have to custom fit this
2) Power Custom heavier gate spring - again, minor fitting required
3) Belt Mountain #5 basepin
4) Bowen Classic Arms target rear sight - doesn't play into fit and tolerances, but I still want it ahead of time.

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"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time"


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2017 10:36 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:17 pm
Posts: 19365
Location: Kentucky
Kevin wrote:
Awesome looking job!

Wonder what Ruger would say if we started to demand polished frame windows?


They'd say "Fine . . . koff up an additional $350 per gun, please!"

;)

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 7:06 pm 
Hunter
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Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
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Power Custom bolts ship wide at 0.100”. As noted, the frame slot mics 0.096”, the stock bolt is 0.092”. That 0.004” worth of clearance is more tolerance than I like.

The new bolt has to be precision ground on a homemade jig. The jig is just a piece of steel with both sides surface ground dead even. Two holes are drilled to affix the bolt so it doesn’t move while grinding. One hole holds the bolt peg, the other is for the cross pin.

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The surface grinder I used is a Boyer-Schultz Six-Twelve Deluxe. These are high-end machines and hold to 0.0001”.

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The jig is positioned on a magnetic chuck and the bolt is ground until it just fits the frame.

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Final width mics 0.0952”, netting 0.0008” total clearance (0.0004” per side – very tight).

In the frame - it clears with no drag or side-play.

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I also turned the cylinder from 2.0” round stock. This was done on our 15” Nordic lathe. Rough o.d. is 1.86”. This weekend I’ll cut it off, center drill, face, and final turn on a mandrel to 1.80”.

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"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time"


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 5:06 pm 
Hunter
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Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
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I came home yesterday to find a box from Jack Huntington. He completed the gripframe much faster than expected.

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I’ll spare you the obvious adjectives which describe his work. If you’ve ever considered his reshape, do it. He has done BFRs, XR3-REDs, and this Bisley for me. Nothing fits my hand better than his contouring and grips.

The 505 LFN mold also arrived from Mountain. From the time I placed the order to the time it hit my house was less than 2 weeks. You’re hard pressed to find better service.

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"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time"


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 10:00 am 
Single-Sixer

Joined: Wed Nov 19, 2008 4:01 pm
Posts: 308
Location: Hermitage, MO
So, you only grind the one side of the bolt?

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I carry a 45 cuz they dont make a 46


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 8:03 pm 
Hunter
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Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
29aholic wrote:
So, you only grind the one side of the bolt?


Just one side.

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"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time"


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 8:04 pm 
Hunter
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Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
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The rough turned stainless is cut 2.20” in length using an electric hacksaw.

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Next I faced both ends in our Colchester lathe:

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The basepin hole is drilled, first by spotting one end. This is followed by 1/8” and 15/64” drill bits.

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A 0.248” reamer finishes the hole. After heat treating, I’ll hone it to 0.250”.

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Using a mandrel, I put the cylinder between centers for outside turning. This ensures the outer diameter is concentric to the basepin hole. Final o.d. is 1.810”.

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"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time"


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 11:58 am 
Single-Sixer

Joined: Sat May 29, 2010 7:04 pm
Posts: 460
Location: New Hampshire
Do you need someone to come sweep your floors? Man, you do great work. TD

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 7:25 pm 
Hunter
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Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
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A Woodruff key cutter makes the bolt stops. Since I’m starting to do cylinders, I ordered a second. These come 1/8” wide and 1/2” in diameter. Clearly too thick for a 0.0960” notch. It has to be ground in a tool and cutter grinder.

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Post-grinding:

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Before milling the stops, I machined the ratchet boss 0.585” in diameter. Standard Ruger ratchet height is 0.150”. Mine will be shorter since I’m recessing the cylinder. 500 Linebaugh rims mic 0.060”, making the target height 0.090”.

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I’ll now share some of the geometry involved in action timing. First, the cylinder is chucked in a horizontal indexing head and a mandrel is inserted. The key cutter is brought down to touch the top of the mandrel. The table is then raised 0.215”.

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Math time. The stops on a Ruger are 0.704” in from the rear edge of the ratchet. My cutter measures 0.514” in diameter. That means the table is moved 0.961” from the back edge (0.704 + (0.514/2)). The cutter is cross fed until it touches the cylinder and our digital readout is zeroed on the Y-axis.

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The cutter is slowly fed in to a depth of 0.060”. Dividing heads yield 9 degrees of rotation for one turn on the dial. The next notch, which is 72 degrees from the first, is positioned with 8 turns.

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The next four stops are milled by repeating the above. Depth is monitored on our digital readout.

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The bolt leads are done with a 3/8” endmill. Do not allow the endmill to reach the bottom edge of the notch. Otherwise, we’d lose our tight fit. Remember, the difference between my bolt and the stop is a miniscule 0.0008”. A depth stop is set to ensure we go no lower than the middle of the notch.

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Last edited by Lee Martin on Tue Feb 28, 2017 7:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 7:27 pm 
Hunter
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Joined: Wed Dec 18, 2002 2:01 am
Posts: 4456
Location: Arlington, Virginia
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A large wheel cutter is how we ‘gear’ the ratchet. But we can’t do a straight cut; the geometry dictates these be offset 20 degrees to the rear plane. The indexing head is canted 20 degrees out from the x-axis. The mandrel is reinserted in the basepin hole and the cutter is brought up to touch the bottom edge. Drop the table 0.090".

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Now here’s the trick to timing the ratchet relative to the notches. Dividing heads have a 40:1 ratio between handle rotation and spindle rotation. Turn the handle 40 times and the spindle moves 360 degrees. Hence, one turn equals 9 degrees.

The ratchet's teeth have to be offset within a narrow range of degrees from the position of the bolt stop. Our indexing head is rotated 1 and 24/57 turns (~12.8). The cutter is zeroed on the back edge of the ratchet. IMPORTANT – the zeroing occurs on the outer most edge of the circumference. Once that’s done, the wheel is fed into a depth of 0.060”.

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To cut the next cog, the indexing head is turned 8 rotations. This is one of the most precarious steps in making a cylinder. If the ratchet depth and position relative to the notches are off, we’re screwed. An error here sends it to the scrap pile.

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We're not quite done with the ratchet. Next time, I’ll mill relief cuts in between the cogs.

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"Building carpal tunnel one round at a time"


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 8:19 pm 
Single-Sixer

Joined: Sun Aug 30, 2009 10:08 am
Posts: 244
Location: Glendale, Az.
This is some seriously cool work, I'm enjoying every part of it. So thanks and can you work faster so you can post more haha. Fun to watch the progress Thanks

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 1:23 pm 
Blackhawk

Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2008 5:06 am
Posts: 583
Amazing work!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 3:47 pm 
Hunter

Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2003 1:01 am
Posts: 2913
Location: So. Ca.
Outstanding work. I could watch this all day.
Thank you. Eric


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2017 4:05 pm 
Buckeye

Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:40 pm
Posts: 1166
If it's ok I've got two questions.
What alloy is the cylinder out of?
And not knowing Ruger single actions I'm
guessing the bolt notches are offset .043
from the basepin centerline?
Thanks
Dave


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