Single Ten Issue When Installing Cylinder

I just got a used single ten a few days ago. Pulled the cylinder out to clean as soon as I got it and when I went to put it back in the rod required a ton of force to go back in the hole. Same thing happened today when I cleaned it again. Both times the hammer won't pull back until I wiggle the cylinder and finally it will work. After that all is good. What am I doing wrong? I haven't had this issue on my other SA guns.

Never have had a single ten. When I have had that issue on my Blackhawks it has generally been because I had the base pin twisted enough for it to be pushed at an angle by the barrel. Have to keep the little crescent perfectly aligned with the barrel.

Spin the cylinder as you push the rod through. Sometimes that will help.

Does the pin slide through the cylinder alone freely? Does the pin slide through the mainframe without the cylinder in place freely? If so, the pawl is probably holding the rear end of the cylinder out of alignment. Rotate the cylinder clockwise as the base pin is being installed. A small bevel can be filed on the right side of the top leg of the pawl to help with this issue. I have done this modification to a couple of my Rugers that had the same problem.

The pin goes through everything freely when separated. When it goes as far as I can easily push it, the cylinder will not spin. It's like everything just gets in a big bind. The first time it happened I thought I didn't have it lined up right but at this point I don't think that's the problem...

I believe that the ratchet at the rear of the cylinder is binding on the tip of the pawl. It looks like everything is aligned but it is off just a little in the rear. I have a BH .41 mag that was that way until I filed a small angle on the inside tip of the pawl to allow it to ride up onto the ratchet. I have seen several brand new Rugers that were modified in that way at the factory.

After you do get it assembled, does everything seem free and function right?

At first everything is in a bind. But after I play with it for a minute and get the hammer to cock everything works correctly.

Can you post a picture of where you file that? I think I have gathered that the teeth on the back of the cylinder are called the "ratchet" and the little lever is the "pawl?" Correct?

Correct!

Chuck 100 yard is exactly right. It's an issue of alignment and "technique" when installing the cyl and especially sensitive on the single 10 because it has 10 teeth on the ratchet and they're very small.

The pin should not take any force to install and if it does, that's telling you the cyl is not square in the cyl window of the frame because the pawl is not meshing with the ratchet teeth.

Install the cyl w/o the pin and roll it clockwise as you feel with your left hand thumb and forefinger how it's matching up to the recoil shield at the back. It should feel flush on both sides if properly aligned. Listen for the pawl clicking properly as the cyl is rolled. Now it's aligned and you can start the oiled cyl pin into the front of the cyl. Roll the cyl as the pin is pushed in. If you feel resistance, stop pushing and adjust the cyl side to side at the back end while rolling it and listening for the clicks. Keep the cyl pin latch button pushed in while you push the pin in.

Once you use that technique the pin will finally slide all the way in easily. Wiggle the cyl a little as the pin tries to enter the rear hole in the frame. The edge of the hole is sharp and can be hard for the pin to start into it. Don't try to cock the gun until the cyl is rolling free with the pin all the way in. Now close the gate and cock the hammer, there won't be any binding.

Once you practice this, it'll be second nature and you don't have to modify the pawl.

Hope this helps,

Last night I took it apart to try the rolling and clicking into place technique. When I put the cylinder in, it spins but no ratcheting. The edge of the ratchet is getting caught on the pawl and won't allow the cylinder to go all the way in. If I get it in just the right spot I can pull the hammer back a little to where the pawl disappears and then everything goes together easily. I assume this is not normal. There are dents on the ratchet from being forced together and I'm guessing that is why it can't be cocked once it's forced together. I sent Ruger an email asking for advice. They replied telling me to send the gun in so they can look at it but I'm not really interested in spending $50 on shipping......

It sounds like you've figured out how to do it. When you get it in correctly w/o forcing it, if the cyl rolls freely and cocks w/o binding after you close the gate, problem solved. No need to send in.

You can smooth the dents or ignore them.