So.... if I take apart my Blackhawk...

I have an itch to dissemble and clean my Blackhawk. I bought it new about three or for months ago, and have been shooting it 3-4 times a week since then. I clean the bore and cylinder after each outing, but I have yet to completely take it down.

I'm curious- is it likely to be dirty inside? How often should I give it a thorough takedown/cleaning?

I am no expert but when I didn't take one down for about a year I started to notice some of the works was gumming up. Turned out it was starting to rust inside. Maybe because I'm in Florida but I would say if you are shooting it you should take it down for inspection, cleaning and oiling about once a year. If you are not shooting it, rub it down with an oily rag about every 6 months and check how the action works.

Mine is 16 years old and the only thing I've ever removed for cleaning or any other reason is the cylinder and grips. Shoots just as good (mayber better) as when it was new. Unless it's giving you a problem, I don't see a need for a complete teardown. If you feel you need to tho, go for it.

If this is a gun you shoot a lot, I'd take it down fully at least once a year. When I first get a gun, I will do a normal cleaning and go shoot it and verify that the gun does function properly. Then, I always take it down and check out the inside parts. Clean, inspect, stone any rough edges, oil it up, maybe a new spring or two.... Just normal gun maintenance. After that, just once a year if I use it a lot. Of course if I shoot blackpowder out of it, it gets taken down every time. If a really like the gun, I'll get my gunsmith to tune it up too as I don't do my own sear work. That way for my most used guns, they all 'feel' the same.

I don't clean my revolvers 'every' time I come back from the range. If I am putting it away for months then yes. Otherwise usually takes a few range sessions (but not always) before I deem it needing a good cleaning.

Not sure if you knew this, but Ruger actually has disassembly and reassembly videos on their website. Your own cleaning regimen may vary but it seems they encourage it periodically!

It's likely to have some "factory crud" in the innards, and anything else that may have found its way in. I've typically found it to be worth the disassembly troubles. Not real difficult once you have it figured out.

All good advice above.

The only thing I would add is make sure you have the proper screwdrivers. It's very easy to bugger up a screw head with an ill-fitting driver.

If you are mechanically inclined & feel comfortable in disassembling it,, I'd follow Stoots advice & use the proper screwdrivers & do so. But if you feel it may be harder for you to do properly, maybe you could do this.
Remove the cylinder, & the grips, & using a spray cleaner like brake cleaner & spray it all over & especially internally. Flush stuff out. Then using a LIGHT application of oil, to replace the needed lubrication in critical areas & you'd be good to go.
Another method. Remove the grips, & insert the entire gun in a container of Kerosene. Let it soak overnight, remove, & use an air hose to blow out all the excess. Wipe down completely.
Another method. Remove the grips, and using an ultra-sonic cleaner, immerse it & let that neat device do the work. Again, a blow dry & re-oil is necessary.

Just a few options here.

Usually do not completely disassemble my revolvers. Being an old automotive shade tree mechanic, I always liked the kerosene soaking, as after blowing it out, the inside surfaces still have a light coating of lube inherent to kerosene. Then the re-lubing of working surfaces and your good.

I have used brake cleaner on the cylinders of my stainless guns when needed to get the most powder staining off. Just checked Amazon and found a variety of ultra-sonic cleaners offered for a very reasonable price. Just have to figure out which size to accommodate up to a 7 1/2" SBH.

GunnyGene said:

Mine is 16 years old and the only thing I've ever removed for cleaning or any other reason is the cylinder and grips. Shoots just as good (mayber better) as when it was new. Unless it's giving you a problem, I don't see a need for a complete teardown. If you feel you need to tho, go for it.

Click to expand...

My sentiments exactly.

I don't disassemble my guns unless I'm replacing parts. Smith & wesson always recommended placing one drop of oil so it will run down into the innards. Other than that, I use a blast of WD-40 into the innards at times to sort of flush out stuff.

My old formula of 50/50 motor oil and machine oil has stood me in good stead over fifty years.

As my department head used to say "If its not necessary to change, its necessary not to change."

I'm hesitant to break a factory installed screw loose.

Bob Wright

Bob Wright said:

My old formula of 50/50 motor oil and machine oil has stood me in good stead over fifty years.

Click to expand...

I've used Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30 oil on guns before and it worked great as well.

no need to ever take it apart, unless something "breaks"...... kerosene, gun blaster, any good spray cleaner (brake cleaner is cheap) then spray it all down inside and blow it out with an air hose......I know of guns that folks still shoot from the turn of the 1900s and they have yet to take them apart, aside from removing the grips and the cylinder...... 8) :roll: :wink:
(lightly oil and NO oil in the chamber).........unless you are putting it away ,in storage........ :wink:

I'll second or third the grips off cylinder out and use gun blaster cleaner method. I've bought or passed on many guns with buggered screws or broken parts from unecessary disassembly. Also stripped or loose screws etc. The exception might be the first cleaning to get factory chips, burrs etc. cleaned out.

I cannot leave well enough alone and almost always disassemble everything I get. I have not had a problem getting new screws from Ruger (last time I asked they sent me 3 or so no charge). Fixing screws on stainless guns with sandpaper is easy as well, and you'd probably never notice one with a bit of cold blue either. If you get in over you head, exploded parts diagrams from Numrich and the like are your friend.

All good advice from fellow members above.

I'll tear it down when I first get a gun, to tune, change hammer and/or trigger, and remove machining chips (especially at the bottom of the screw holes), and roll over burrs. Then seldom do again. I flush periodically with Breakfree CLP (cleaner lubricant preservative), and let drain. That's it, it already gets re-lubricated with CLP at the same time.

If you want to tear down you may find these videos and tips helpful:

Factory Videos: Good New Model Ruger disassembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfOXBa8K8Ow

NM Reassembly (shows hammer plunger assembly too):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEKDqwkgEs&feature=related

Factory OM disassembly/re-assembly video:

Ruger doesn't have an OM single six or Blackhawk video so choose the video for the Old Army which has the same lock work. Video at the bottom of the list, here: http://www.ruger.com/resources/videos.html?vidID=005039

View or request Owner's Manual here: http://ruger.com/service/productHistory.html#


GATE SPRING: A few tips based on my experiences:

1. To release the gate spring from the cross pin, the small tip screwdriver used as shown in video below is miraculously easy with just two hands or the frame can be held in a padded vise to really make it simple. A little practice with the technique is the key here.

2. The first disassembly is always the worst. The pins are supposed to be slip fit, if they aren't, the first time they come out they get a thorough polish (like they are in the video!) Never need a hammer, just a paper clip or punch to push them in and out with my fingers. See #8 below for things that make the pins hang up.

3. Bevel both sharp edges of the trigger/cyl bolt pin groove for ease of releasing the pesky spring.
If I'm not removing the cyl bolt, or gate spring, just trigger/transfer bar, I always leave the pin partially in the frame keeping the spring under tension, with pin sticking out on the loading gate side.

4. The current production guns have a new divot in the top of the trigger guard for the elbow of the fork in the spring for a better fit. Before that, some of the springs came filed on the elbow.

5. Leave cyl pin in the gun to avoid frustration while reassembling with transfer bar hanging up on firing pin preventing hammer from cocking.

6. Pawl spring must go in plunger 1st, you know that, but it's a common error.

7. Always unhook both legs of the trigger spring for reassembly of grip frame.

8. Always check the grip frame screw holes for machining chips left in them from threading the holes (especially stainless guns), and clean out if present. The two screw holes behind the trigger guard usually have huge rollover burrs from drilling the hammer pin hole and milling the frame. This will cause screws to screw in too tight and/or break off.

Install all five screws but do not cinch them tight. Align the grip frame edges flush with the cyl frame by tapping with the butt of a plastic handled screw driver. Tighten one trigger guard screw, then front screw and then one ear screw. Then tighten them all.

9. and lastly: MY SHORTCUT FOR REMOVING JUST HAMMER and/or PAWL:
Recognize, you do not need to hassle with the PESKY LOADING GATE SPRING, pull the trigger pin, OR trigger/transfer bar JUST to remove the hammer and pawl. Once you remove the grip frame, the hammer pin is the only other part you need to remove. After that, just pull the hammer back and all the way down, then depress the hammer plunger in the base of the hammer with a small tipped screwdriver to clear the trigger extension where the transfer bar connects to it. Let the hammer & pawl fall out. Install in reverse! Piece o' cake.

If you do take it apart get a very fine stone and clean up the trigger surfaces - do not change the angles or round off corners. You'll be amazed what 5 minutes will do for the feel.

Just dunk it in a bucket of oil after you finish shooting it and let drain over night. You will have a well loobed six gun!

- This is the 21st century Department:
Since i picked up an ultrasonic cleaner I find it cleans better than I can even using a bench full of the best tools. I first used them to clean TAM (test-crack) panels for aviation NDT. They work!
I learned that if I can clean a clockwork with it still running in an ultrasonic tank, I can certainly get a revolver's inner workings food-grade clean without dis-assembly! :shock: Just be certain you understand what needs re-lubrication and what doesn't.

There have to be myriad reasons we weren't born in the 19th century. Ultrasonic cleaners has to be one of them. :wink:

Don't know about anyone else, but when I buy a new (or used) gun, the first thing I do every time is dis-assemble it and inspect all the working parts, clean & lubricate everything & re-assemble it before it is ever shot. I've found several to be a little gritty inside.
After that, it usually becomes a solvent & brush cleaning after each range trip or hunting excursion, & a complete teardown cleaning about twice a year. Just my routine, as others may disagree.