Double action, or another single action?

I've had my Blackhawk flattop convertible for a couple of months now, and to say I have been enjoying shooting it is an understatement.

I would like to add a second .357/.38 revolver to my collection, and I'm having trouble deciding between another single action, or going to a double action revolver.

An SAA clone is something I've been itching for, as is a Vaquero. On the double action side, I've shot Ruger GP100's and S&W 686's at the range and like both of those.

I may just have to flip a coin.

I think my Favorite 357 is my 4" Security Six. Love it! Love my Blackhawks, but that SS is awesome!

If another .38/.357 is a fixed parameter, then get a DA revolver.

If you have a hankering for another Blackhawk on purpose, then consider another cal.

I've been having the itch for a stainless .357 Vaquero with a 5.5" barrel. It's the one gun that has always evaded me.

I'd go for a 2 3/4" Security Six--IF you can find one--or a Match Champion.

Since you mentioned you already have a convertible, (assuming a 9mm/357) I'd say get a good DA. Why? Well, it's a totally different type of firearm, and has different capabilities, yet at the same time can be used the same way.
A SA can easily be used for hunting & woods bumming,,, but many find it bulky for CCW. Yet,, some folks do go CCW with a SA. A good DA,,, is great for CCW, but often the shorter (usually) barrels aren't carried for hunting,,, but again, some folks do that as well.
I happen to own several 357's myself. More SA's than DA's. I have a couple of Security-Sixes, a Redhawk, a couple of SP-101's, & a few S&W 357's. Back in February, I handled the NRA edition (at a FoNRA event) & kinda wanted it. Well, I won a Colt 1911, that I didn't want or need as much, so I sold the Colt, and bought a Match Champion GP-100. Up until then, I hadn't had the need or desire to own a GP.
I took my GP out & found it to be quite nice. Very comfortable to hold & shoot, accurate, balanced nicely, and the different shaped grip opened my eyes a bit. Guess what,,, it made me jump & buy a second GP when it was offered for sale on another Forum. So much so that my second one was advertised as a 6" gun, and I missed that detail. I was so engrossed at having a pair, that I THOUGHT it was another 4" gun. Was I upset when it arrived? Nope, just surprised, and a bit self embarrassed. It shoots good & I chose to add a set of grips to mine like the MC.
Oh, BTW; I also added another SA to my stable last weekend,,, a Flattop 357 OM. Too nice to shoot, so it just gets to sit on the porch with the others.

I'd say try a DA as your second one as it's just a totally different feel, and you already have the ammo & such for it.

I'd have to ask what would be the intended use for said revolver.

Easy choice, Ruger GP-100. The only problem is 3", 4", 5" or 6" barrel?

s4s4u said:

I'd have to ask what would be the intended use for said revolver.

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It will be pretty much strictly a range gun. I hang out with some guys at the range who can really shoot. We shoot at steel, paper targets, clays, spent shotgun shells, clothes pins... mostly at 25 yards, but we occasionally put some clays out at 100. They can shoot circles around me, but I've been getting better.

I'm thinking about a GP100, with either a 5 or 6 inch barrel. Again, I'm also interested in an SAA clone, possibly a Uberti.

I know this is a Ruger forum. But if you are considering a double action, try to find a S&W L frame. It's the size frame that is perfect for the 38/357. I love my 27's but they are really heavier than necessary. My K frame .357's were never really intended for a steady diet of .357's and as such mostly see .38's.

I just got a Smith and Wesson Performace Center model 327 2" barrel. 357mag.. its an interesting Revolver. Its an N frame so strong enough but its made from Scandium and titanium so its super light at 21 ounces. Holds 8 rounds of .357 mag. Its not cheap but its definitely a great piece. Definitely recommend checking it out.

ditto1958 said:

s4s4u said:

I'd have to ask what would be the intended use for said revolver.

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It will be pretty much strictly a range gun. I hang out with some guys at the range who can really shoot. We shoot at steel, paper targets, clays, spent shotgun shells, clothes pins... mostly at 25 yards, but we occasionally put some clays out at 100. They can shoot circles around me, but I've been getting better.

I'm thinking about a GP100, with either a 5 or 6 inch barrel. Again, I'm also interested in an SAA clone, possibly a Uberti.

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If your intention is to improve your shooting, now is not the time to be changing platforms. In your place, I'd stick to single actions and focus on which barrel length you can shoot the best. I shoot short barrels best, because I can hold them steadier, especially at longer ranges where the barrel movement becomes more critical. Long barrels tend to wobble around for me.

Have you tried some of your buddies' guns to see how well you can shoot them?

A SAA clone might be a good choice if you can see the sights well enough. Once I get them shooting to point of aim, I can actually get a more precise sight picture than with adjustable sights and the big wide post front sight; plus adjustable sights usually get adjusted once and seldom changed. The other good reason is you're hankering for a SAA. You might consider a caliber change if you reload, or keep it simple and stick to the 38/357 that you know, this time. If you get an imported SAA clone instead of a Ruger, don't skimp on quality unless you like to tinker with them (and/or spend money for professional work on them.)

Hondo44 said:

A SAA clone might be a good choice if you can see the sights well enough. Once I get them shooting to point of aim, I can actually get a more precise sight picture than with adjustable sights and the big wide post front sight; plus adjustable sights usually get adjusted once and seldom changed.

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Good points all . Hondo I was wondering if you could share your bag of tricks for getting a fixed sight gun to shoot to the point if aim. Elevation I can usually work out it's windage that drives me nuts. They have become so annoying and frustrating to me that I no longer want to have them around. Some have been mildly annoying some off crazy nuts nowhere near where they are pointed.
I am aware of barrel turning but hate the sight picture and have resulted to dovetail front sights if the barrel has enough meat.

Jeepnik said:

I know this is a Ruger forum. But if you are considering a double action, try to find a S&W L frame. It's the size frame that is perfect for the 38/357. I love my 27's but they are really heavier than necessary. My K frame .357's were never really intended for a steady diet of .357's and as such mostly see .38's.

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Trust me, I've tried a number of Smith's at the range, and I love their triggers. I would be interested in one if I could find an older one in good condition for a fair price. That could be hard to do.

If you have the chance to fondle a Match Champion I recommend doing so, I love mine.

Captain America said:

If you have the chance to fondle a Match Champion I recommend doing so, I love mine.

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I've drooled over those in stores more than a couple of times. I think I'd prefer a longer barrel, though.

needsmostuff said:

Hondo44 said:

A SAA clone might be a good choice if you can see the sights well enough. Once I get them shooting to point of aim, I can actually get a more precise sight picture than with adjustable sights and the big wide post front sight; plus adjustable sights usually get adjusted once and seldom changed.

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Good points all . Hondo I was wondering if you could share your bag of tricks for getting a fixed sight gun to shoot to the point if aim. Elevation I can usually work out it's windage that drives me nuts. They have become so annoying and frustrating to me that I no longer want to have them around. Some have been mildly annoying some off crazy nuts nowhere near where they are pointed.
I am aware of barrel turning but hate the sight picture and have resulted to dovetail front sights if the barrel has enough meat.

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I too, would not turn a barrel and have a front sight that was not straight up and down or not in the middle of the barrel!

For slight windage adjustments, I'll file one side of the rear sight notch. Shoots to left, file right sight of rear notch.

For large adjustment, I call Ruger and it goes back to Ruger for a free repair including shipping both ways. Even if it's an adjustable sight gun!

For large adjustment on non-Ruger brands it goes back to maker. If not possible, the best approach is a hydraulic press. As counterintuitive as it might sound, tweaking (bending) the barrel is a very satisfactory solution. It takes such a minute amount of pressure to correct a barrel. Barrel surface and finish is protected with duct tape and a piece of lead ingot or Babbitt alloy is used between the press ram and the taped barrel. The barrel is not removed from the frame. If one goes too far, turn the barrel over and press it again on the other side to correct. No other downsides.

I recommend a S&W model 27 with an 8 3/8" barrel for long range work. Mine has an amazing trigger pull in single action (an old pinned and recessed one). Those old long barreled ones often go for much less than the shorties.

REP1954 said:

I've been having the itch for a stainless .357 Vaquero with a 5.5" barrel. It's the one gun that has always evaded me.

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I had a new one last year, but traded it off towards a NIB Colt SAA .357. Am glad I got the Colt, but will get another NV, with the 4.62" barrel. They are really nice revolvers for the $$$, and the fit & finish on mine was excellent. Loved the glossy stainless:



The Colt was made in 1979, and had never been fired since the factory (it sat in my brother's safe with two others since he bought them new in 1980):

Hondo44 said:

For large adjustment on non-Ruger brands it goes back to maker. If not possible, the best approach is a hydraulic press. As counterintuitive as it might sound, tweaking (bending) the barrel is a very satisfactory solution. It takes such a minute amount of pressure to correct a barrel. Barrel surface and finish is protected with duct tape and a piece of lead ingot or Babbitt alloy is used between the press ram and the taped barrel. The barrel is not removed from the frame. If one goes too far, turn the barrel over and press it again on the other side to correct. No other downsides.

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I have also heard enough whispers about barrel bending to know it is legitimate . Apparently taught in the old S&W armorer school to regulate fixed sights. I believe old school involved a heavy Babbitt bar and wacking the gun. I have been unsuccessful in ever seeing a picture on how to block the gun or where to hit it. Middle of the barrel , close to the frame ?????
I would love to see a picture or description how you block yours in a press. A good arbor press might have a better "feel" to it if it had enough power. It's a little scary to try and blindly reinvent the wheel on this kind of thing.