Changing SBH grip frames?

Just bought a new SBH .44 Magnum with the 5.5" barrel & rounded trigger guard last week. Love the gun (haven't shot it yet), but think the grip frame & panels are too short. I'd like to change them to the same as what comes on the SBH .44 Magnum Hunter:

From this length:

to this longer grip:


Does the Ruger factory do such "customizing"?
If so, anybody know how to set it up & the cost?
Would they just swap it out with me (I'd pay the mailing of course)?

Ruger will not fit the gun with the Hunter grip frame, since it did not leave the factory that way. They don't have a custom shop. You can buy the frame and grips, and then have a gunsmith fit the frame if you're not up to the task yourself. These are not 'drop-in' parts - usually.

What Enigma posted above.

However, The swap you want to make is as close to a drop in as there is. The two grip frames are completely interchangeable. The easiest would be to get a "take off" Hunter grip frame and grips. Advertise in this forum in the classifieds. You might have minor polishing around the edges where they meet the main frame.

You can buy the grip frame new, it's in stock here at Brownells:
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/frame-parts/grip-frames/grip-frame-hunter-ss-prod18828.aspx
But since it's never been fit and finished to a gun, a lot more sanding and polishing is involved.

I did the same to my SBH and this large frame Vaquero with 5 1/2" barrel:

Thanks guys, that's precisely the info I needed. Will order that grip from Brownells.

Edited to add: Read that single review for this particular grip frame - did you have a different opinion/experience with yours?

It looks as if someone else started with a rough casting and attempted to finish it off. Lots of flashing from mill work, and a good deal of casting marks. I thought that Ruger did a ceramic mold, so casting marks tell me that it may not be a Ruger part. Some edges still very rough, and others have been smoothed with some kind of grinder. This will be a real challenge. First cleaning up and fitting, then polishing. I bought it to give myself a bit of a larger grip and some more weight to my Blackhawk, plus I wanted the stainless look against the blued revolver.

Click to expand...

Also, saw these grips - those are the ones that fit this frame?

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/grip-parts/grips/grip-panels-laminated-silver-black-prod11705.aspx?psize=96&avs%7cMake%7e%7eModel_1=Ruger__Blackhawk

Whoever you quoted described what a brand new Ruger grip frame looks like and no one else makes a Ruger Hunter grip frame copy, so I guarantee it was a Ruger part.

Yes those grips are correct. SBH Hunter grips and SBH dragoon grips with sq back trigger guard are the same, and interchangeable.

Ordered both today - thanks for the guidance.

Told the wife she can wrap them up for under the tree.

There ya go!!

Even my HUNTER grip was too short! Enter Bisley!

That's completely accurate. In my experience at least, not enough to help me though.

In Cary's sketch below, unfortunately the front edge of the two grips are not aligned for easy comparison. The SBH and the XR3-RED standard plow handle grips are effectively a slight 1/8" shorter on the fore grip. But both are wider than the Bisley at that section of the grip frame level with the trigger guard, and at the butt. The Bisley is longer on the backstrap which I think is why some prefer it. I don't like the dragoon sq trigger guard so I've opted for the SBH Hunter with round guard on all my big bore single action Rugers.



But the Bisley grip measures .177" (almost 3/16") closer to the trigger guard than the standard XR3-RED size (aluminum and steel), and the SBH Dragoon/SBH Hunter grip frames which have the most space. Because the Bisley trigger guard is larger, therefore closer to the grip frame, it gives the Bisley the absolute least space of any Ruger grip frame. Even closer than the old 'knuckle busting' XR3 size plow handle grip frame! The XR3-RED size and the SBH plow handle large grip frames with more distance behind the trigger guard, have the benefit of less chance of rapping the knuckle under recoil.

Below is a good illustration, of the increased difference (~3/16") in horizontal finger distance behind the trigger guard on the Hunter (and standard XR3-RED size grip frame) and the increased width, compared to the Bisley grip with less finger space:

http://www.dustinlinebaugh.com/gallery_009.htm

Well, the standard grip on my new SBH (5.5" barrel - round trigger guard) doesn't give my pinky a good purchase - leaves half of it hanging - like the little LCP .380. And I don't have big hands.

My brother's old 3 screw SBH grip fits just right, but the square back TG beats up the fingers too much. So that's why the Hunter TG is my preference. the square back "dragoon" style looks pretty cool, but it's not practical for me.

Got an email from Brownells - the order was shipped this morning.

Armybrat said:

....the standard grip on my new SBH doesn't give my pinky a good purchase - leaves half of it hanging - like the little LCP .380. .......

Click to expand...

One of the traditional ways to grip an "ole hawg leg" or plow handled grip like on the original Colts, and now the Ruger and other Single Action revolvers is with the pinky tucked UNDER the grip.

Try it, you may like it. It's my favorite (and best shooting) way to grip a Single Action.

As for Bisley's - - I cannot get the hang of ALL my fingers on the grip. Give me the good old "pinky under" plow handle grip!

Got the new grip frame & wood - now for a bit of Dremel work to fit & finish:

You'll love it when done! Heck, just screw it on and go shoot. You can fit and finish it tonite.

And it'll be a great looker!

Anything to look out for when changing the mainspring over?

Armybrat said:

Anything to look out for when changing the mainspring over?

Click to expand...

Just cut you a ~5/8" of hanger wire,
Cock the hammer, capture the spring by sliding the wire in the hole in the bottom of strut,
Move the entire assembly over.
Un-capture ONLY after you have everthing screwed down and ready to go.
Trigger spring & pin, move right over, hopefully the new Hunter Gripframe came with the trigger leg pin installed, if not moving this part can be a PIA.
Grip Panel locator pin is just a roll pin, I use some solid stock that I chuck up in the drill press and using a file dress a slight angle on each end. This method ends up being "equal" vs the roll pin has a slight out of round.

When attaching the New Grip Frame, install all the screws loosely, as you slightly tighten them up, tap, tap, tap the GF with the handle end of the screw driver to get the wiggles, binds, kinks out. Biggest error I see with "rookie" GF swaps is over tighten of the screws. Snub em up & take a driver to the range with you, fire 6, tighten, fire 6, check em again.

No nothing, it's a clean swap. From my Ruger tutorials:

Note: I always check the grip frame screw holes for machining chips left in them (especially stainless guns) from threading the holes and clean them out if present. The two screw holes behind the trigger guard usually have huge rollover burrs from drilling the hammer pin hole and milling the frame. This will cause screws to screw in too tight and/or break off.

Grip frame installation: Always unhook both legs of the trigger spring and assemble grip frame to main frame. Install all five screws but do not cinch them tight. Align the grip frame edges flush with the cyl frame by tapping with the butt of a plastic handled screw driver. Tighten one trigger guard screw, then front screw and then one ear screw. Then tighten them all.


These are helpful:
Videos: Good New Model Ruger factory disassembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfOXBa8K8Ow

NM Reassembly (shows hammer plunger assembly too):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEKDqwkgEs&feature=related

Thanks G2 and Hondo!

Will do as advised.

One other little caution:

Always leave the cyl out so you can confirm the cyl latch spring/plunger is properly aligned on the latch so it has tension on it by seeing it sticking up thru the frame, before putting in any grip frame screws.

Done, finally - it's is a MUCH better fit for my hands:

So,,,,, how does it shoot?