Opening Loading Window in new Single Seven

FINALLY brought my single seven home, and am excited to get it out to the range.
As has been reported elsewhere on here, the chambers do not line up with the loading window "on the click", so I either need to get good at holding it just right, or open up the window just a little bit. The extra opening would be at the very bottom of the window, and it doesn't look like it would take much. The question is, is this something that is risky for the novice, and what actual tool would I use? Stone, file, Dremel(r) :twisted: :roll: ? I do have the patience to go slowly and carefully, and am willing to try, but obviously don't want to mess up my new gun. Is this something best left for a return trip to Ruger, and should I go ahead and shoot it some to see if there are other issues that need addressing also?
Thanks.
Don

I frequently open up the loading gate trough on Ruger .32s. I use a Dremel with a stone wheel bit close to the size of the trough. Keep the Dremel moving from the cyl all the way to the rear of the trough to keep it even. Try a case in the chamber. The rim will leave a brass line where it's still contacting and tight in the trough. Grind some more to remove the brass line. Check with a case again, etc. Use low Dremel speed so the stone doesn't jump out and gouge the edge of the trough.

When deep enough, switch to a rubber polishing wheel bit of similar size to smooth the grind marks. Then a small buffing wheel with white polishing rouge (for stainless steel) for final polish.

Use a grinding wheel 'dressing' stone to grind down your stone and rubber bits to the diameters you need for different tasks. Also to true up and dress your stone bits to maintain nice flat and square surfaces on them before each use.

JUST FYI: It is possible to grind the trough deep enough to cut into the milled slot for the transfer bar on new models. However, you have plenty of material for the .32 Mag size. I have also ground it deep enough for the larger rims of the .25-20/.32-20 for conversions I've done, without grinding thru. It's only an issue when you go deep enough for .38/.357 conversions which require exposing the transfer bar slot for their larger rims.

Hope this helpful,

Hondo44 said:

Hope this is helpful,

Click to expand...

Very. Thank you.

One thing I found that is curious (not related to the loading window):

The grip frame screws appear to be blued, not stainless.
Just the two at the rear, that you are looking at when you're holding the gun so as to look through the sights.
The screws on the bottom of the grip frame appear to be stainless.

Is this normal, or acceptable?

Don,

No, that's not normal. If you call them, they'll send you new stainless screws for free. If you decide to return it to Ruger there's no problem shooting it first, and I would. They'll send you a shipping tag so there's no cost to you and you will have it back in 10 days or less.

I might suggest shooting it first. If you are a novice as you say. I am as well around gunsmithing work. Using a dremel is not something I would suggest. The part of the gun you are talking about modifying is the serial numbered frame. Which ain't the cheapest part on the gun. Dremels just aren't forgiving of mistakes.

I appreciate your caution as a novice. But this is one job where the Dremel is the most appropriate tool, in fact about the only proper tool. A Dremel is like a new gun, don't expect to load up and shoot bullseyes the first cylinder full. A new gun and a Dremel both take some skill and practice like any tool, to achieve good results.
Don posted he had "...the patience to go slowly and carefully, and am willing to try...". My hat's off to him. He won't be a novice for long. Nothing ventured nothing gained and one would have to try pretty hard to destroy the frame doing this job with a Dremel tool.

I own Single Seven's in all three barrel lengths. Only one, the 5 1/2", needed any work in the loading trough area and then only a few thousandths of an inch was needed to make it a slick operation to load it.
Hondo explained ,to a tee ,the method I use to do the job. With a fine grit stone the finish will match very close to the factory finish also.

Many / most of the new stainless guard screws that I buy appear blued on the exposed top area but they are stainless. They need to be polished if you want them bright. I have a mini lathe that I chuck them up in and polish the heads using wet and dry sandpaper or one of the wife's black fingernail boards. You can also spin them in an electric drill.
Note: those black ( emery ?) fingernail boards are a very handy tool to keep in the shop.I buy them by the dozen to use for many of the small polishing and deburring jobs

My 4.6" Single seven didn't even nearly line up, in fact the ejector rod wouldn't even start in the chamber. I dremmeled it and have a void into the transfer slot. My 5.5s were both perfect. My 7.5 was pretty bad, but I called Ruger and they had my UPS man pick it up. It came back in less than 10 days and indexed perfectly. No charge. I wish I had sent the 4.6" in as it is my favorite length and will always have a hole in the loading slot. It is your gun and if you feel lucky, It is your right to alter it. I'm just telling you what happened to me......

Consider swapping barrels with one of the other less favorites. They will usually swap and index properly on same vintage guns. Swap cylinders 1st and check barrel cyl gap. If they differ, swap the barrels and cyls. The timing is not likely to change, but on the rare occasion, timing is off, just swap cyl pawls as well.