Getting light strikes on my blackhawk, firing pin or ?

I don't think I could wait. I'd be filing on the top step of the hammer. Don't even have to take the gun apart. Just shove a Kleenex down in the hammer channel to keep filings out of the action. When that works, you're done and you have a spare transfer bar. Plus you can always reverse it by filing the same amount off of the 2nd step of the hammer face.

Gee, he told me 5 to 10 days.
It took two days. Was I surprized or what.
OK,
It was stainless and not blued...but who's complaining. Maybe I can get to it tomorrow evening.

All transfer bars, other internal parts, triggers, hammers, and ejector rod housing screws are stainless parts on blue guns. Ruger no longer has blue versions of any of those parts anymore.

Ruger generally has about +/- 2 week turn around. I've always had good experience with their support.

Rock Island was like 6 months almost. They sent my gun back to the wrong customer. Then had to get it back so they could send it back to me. WTH???

New part is in.....has been in....and out...a couple times tonight.
Slightly WORSE than the original one...(pressing in the transfer bar by mechanical means).
So...other than a new firing pin, the only way I'm going to get more firing pin protrusion is to grind material off the front side of the transfer bar (except for where it hits the pin)...since I cannot see what is holding it out. Since it is not a machined part,..I'm assuming it's just the garbage that came out of the mold.

By the way, the new transfer bar....as well as the old,..only cover the back of the firing pin and 40 to 50 percent (when being fired). Why does my redhawk cover the firing pin all the way,.. and I checked one other gun too, but can't remember if it's the security six or what...just seems to be the blackhawk that thinks half the pin is fine....Which kind of defeats the purpose of having a large hitting area on the back, as compared to the front. No point in the large area if you're just going to be striking a portion of it...is there. I wonder if this whole thing is the trasfer bar not coming up fully over the pin.

Ok,
I'm really up for ideas. I may order a firing pin...but will sure be pissed off if I put it in and it's the same or worse.

Spent a few minutes on the grinding wheels taking the new transfer bar face down except the last 8th inch or so where it strikes the firing pin.
The new bar started out thicker than the original blued one (enough thicker that you didn't need a micrometer to tell.
Now the new bar (except the end that strikes the firing pin) is as thin as the original blued one...maybe even a bit thinner but I don't think so. Hope I don't break it.

I'm getting the full protrusion of the existing firing pin now, which is somewhere between 35 and 40 thousands. Only a new firing pin will get me more. But if this will reliably fire my reloads with the primers a tad deep, I'll be happy. I gained around 15 thousandths of protrusion....and there is not a chance my primers are more than 4 or 5 thousands deeper than standard ones. I think I've only had 1 standard ammo. with a FTF in the last couple hundred rounds of standard ammo. shot.

You will be pissed off with a new firing pin, especially after all the work. You've no doubt fixed it.

That's not a guess, the transfer bar thickness vs. hammer step thickness is how dozens of Rugers with your problem have been fixed:

As posted earlier, if the firing pin sticks out more when you push it in flat with transfer bar, than it does when the hammer is down with trigger back, that's the problem! (You posted above that it does stick out about .009" less, that's about 30% short of full pin protrusion. No wonder it miss-fired.)

The transfer bar covering only half of the firing pin is not abnormal on the single actions, forget about that.

Where you ground the transfer bar is where they break, hence why they beefed them up. Therefore polish out all the grinding lines so you don't have any grind line induced fracture.

When thinning (polishing) the transfer bar, it is best to only remove the ridges
(mold part lines) and to polish any grinding marks off to prevent stress risers that will cause places for a crack to get started,as Hondo said. It is possible to measure (accurately) the firing pin length without removing it from the gun BUT from your posts I gather that you do not have the tools to do it with. I will explained that method if you wish.

I assume the hammer is more expensive than a free transfer bar....so I decline to file the hammer anywhere...if at all possible.
Realizing..with THIS firearm and existing firing pin, the maximum full protrusion is still under spec...even when tweaked by me.
I have a big guess that I wouldn't be able to get ruger to send me a firing pin even if I paid for it... So I am going to try this before I order one from someplace. I mean, when I order a new transfer bar and it is WORSE than the old one, that's a bit scary...but since it was thicker I was able to remove material from everywhere but the strike area..how nice of them to make a thicker one.
I now have (give or take) around .015" MORE firing pin protrusion than I had to start with. .015 is an awful lot more in real terms. I will be surprized if this does not clear up my ftf problem.

The blackhawk lives again.
Did test firing today and so far....NO FTFs. yipee.
Also, I chronied some 200 grain lead loads with about 10 grains unique (actually, if I remember that charge right).. It was right around 1000 fps,..with a rather large standard deviation...I think the average deviation was plus or minus 40 or 50 fps.
The gun only has a 4 5/8 barrel, so the velocity seems to be ok,.. I didn't chrony any of the 255 grain loads. But I think they are around 800 fps... from last year when I chronied some.