Single seven fixes

Carbon fouling is one thing - this carbon requires scrubbing with steel wool to remove. Cylinder not smooth. Why should I have to check screws on a new gun? Do you check bolts on a new car?? I own a lot of Rugers and I have not had any issues with any of them up to this point. Yes, they are not major issues but when buying a new gun I would expect better. Why should I have to make repairs to a new gun? From what I have heard they will fix. Will see.

On my 4 5/8" specimen It was so out of time the ejector rod would not enter the cylinder after the click and then hung up when stroked. I used a dremmel as well as sand paper on my loading slot. Before I achieved clearance, I had an opening into the transfer slot. I then opened it up so that I had plenty of room and thinned the ejector rod as well. Meanwhile, I have lost a good bit of resale value as there is no way to replace metal. When my 7 1/2" was bad I sent it to Ruger. No loss in resale value, no sweat. My two early 5 1/2" were perfect, as was my 2nd 7 1/2" model. This is a new innovative version of the SS frame. Some growing pains are normal, meanwhile Ruger has done a good job of fixing the ones sent back. I am very glad that Ruger and Lipseys went out on a limb to make this model. It is a real GEE-WHIZ deal. See below..........

dixie884,

The loading trough should only be opened up on one side for clearance to align with the chambers for loading/unloading. The depth of the trough is adequate and should never be deepened for the reason that you discovered.

32shooter,cars are not my hobby,guns are and yes I am pretty anal about checking every screw and I remove the grip frame from all new Ruger SA's I buy(50 + in my collection at this point) and clean the internals and check everything.
Basically, I consider any revolver that costs less than 1K a work in progress and if I find everything in order, all the better. Let's go shooting friend!

Chuck, I guess I am a little bit different than you. I buy a new gun, give it a cleaning, but not tearing it down to clean. And then I start shooting. I guess if I buy a NEW gun I except things to be in working order. I am still giving the little Ruger a workout minus the ejector rod. Have been working on some powder coated 117gr loads, 7625 looks good so far. Good idea, lets get shooting!!

Dixie... It sounds like that Ruger replaced your returned 7 1/2 inch S7 for a new one, is that correct? ...they didn't repair and return to you your original gun, right?

sdown356 said:

Dixie... It sounds like that Ruger replaced your returned 7 1/2 inch S7 for a new one, is that correct? ...they didn't repair and return to you your original gun, right?

Click to expand...

Dixie may respond for himself but I sure didn't read what he posted to mean that: "When my 7 1/2" was bad I sent it to Ruger. No loss in resale value, no sweat."

I read it to mean that when Ruger fixed his 7 1/2" S7, they didn't grind thru into the transfer bar channel therefore there will be no loss in value if he resold it.

I'm sure the assemblers just weren't aware of the clearances. Someone called it tolerance stacking. The 7 1/2 " was new, I returned it to Ruger, untouched. They adjusted the amount of rotation so that the cylinder indexed earlier, which made it click into proper relation to the loading slot. It seems perfectly aligned. The 4 5/8 that I boogered up is, of course on me. I couldn't shoot it as it was and I badly wanted to shoot it so I did whatever it took to get instant gratification. I definitely lost resale value but some one else will have to worry about that. I'm pretty happy with it like it is and there is now plenty of room. I probably will keep it til I don't need it. Meanwhile a new gun with a problem is best sent back for a free repair and free shipping. Great warranty service, I give it an A+++.

Dixie one last question .... Were you having trouble with the cylinder pin backing out under recoil?.... if you were having that problem did you ask Ruger to fix it?

sdown356 said:

Dixie one last question .... Were you having trouble with the cylinder pin backing out under recoil?.... if you were having that problem did you ask Ruger to fix it?

Click to expand...

I don't know about Dixie, but I spoke to a gentleman at Ruger this afternoon about my cylinder pin backing out and he said that they would have to have it back to repair it. He e-mailed me a pre-paid return label, so mine will be going back as soon as I can get it boxed up and off to UPS.

I had this exact issue with only one of two consecutively numbered .44 spl. flat-tops. When I examined them side by side VERY CLOSELY I saw that the latch on the offending gun was not seating fully. I disassembled the latch to find a machining "burr" protruding from the bottom of the hole in the main frame. I used a drill bit BY HAND to snag and remove the burr and then installed a Wolf extra strength latch spring. If I hadn't had the two guns side-by-side I'm not sure I would have detected the poorly seated latch. Problem solved.
Both guns now have Super Blackhawk hammers, action jobs and the wolf spring kits. After polishing all the internal surfaces, hammer sides pivot pins etc... I now have two very nice slick guns scaling an even 2lbs. pull. My short fat thumbs love those hammers and they look awesome.
Just. B.S.

My 4 5/8 in is the only one of mine I've shot. It doesn't seem to have the cylinder pin problem.......

I'm going to disassemble my cyinder pin latch and look for burrs...I've compared the machining in the frame with my SS Bisley and the SS7 looks like it is machined shallower.

The latest issue of Handloader 294 pp 28-35 by Brian Pearce has a section covering this problem. There is a picture illustrating the problem on page 30. He also gives some great reloading information.

sdown356 said:

I'm going to disassemble my cyinder pin latch and look for burrs...I've compared the machining in the frame with my SS Bisley and the SS7 looks like it is machined shallower.

Click to expand...

Before you take apart the latch, remove cyl pin and cyl in the S7 and Bisley. Then look thru the cyl pin holes and compare the amount of protrusion of each latch into the cyl pin hole. If they protrude the same amount then the depth of the cannelure in the pin could be the problem.

Hunter...I checked the latch protrusion as you suggested... The Bisley protrudsion is visibly higher. And the angle of the latch pin hole in the S7 is not as "steep" as the Bisley....I think it is that shallow angle into the frame is what reduces the protrusion of the latch in the S7.