super blackhawk grip problems

Buckhorn150 · Nov 21, 2014

I have been working on a blackhawk project for a while now.finally got to the range and can't keep the grips from moving around under recoil. I tighten the grip screw till I feel comfortable, don't want to strip or break grips. Did anyone have same issue, and if so how did you fix it?

NorEaster · Nov 21, 2014

Do you have a locator pin in the grip frame and do the corresponding holes in the grips fit it correctly?

onehandgunner · Nov 21, 2014

Before you tighten the screw and break something go to a hardware store and buy a aluminum barrel spacer 1/2" long to fit a #8 or 10 screw. Place it between the grip panels on the grip screw. Also, how well to the grip panels fit the frame ?

Buckhorn150 · Nov 21, 2014

When I acquired this gun it had pachmayr rubber grips on it. I bought factory ruger grips for it, I must be missing a pin that needs to be there for the wood grips.

contender · Nov 22, 2014

All good advise above. Let me go a bit further.
If you have the correct Factory grips, there should be holes in the lower front edge corner on the inside of each panel, that fit over a protruding pin in the grip frame. That's the "locator" pin. Check that first.
Next, the spacer mentioned above.
I use the nylon ones vs the aluminum ones for a couple of reasons. One, while the grip frames SHOULD be 1/2" thick, I have often found the polishing process has them a few thousands thinner. This causes a grip panel to not quite seat against the gripframe. As such, I'm able to lightly sand off one side of the nylon easily to fit the guns. Next, I prefer nylon over the aluminum ones so that I don't get a dimpled ring in the back of the wood when I use them. If an aluminum one is used, and you do have to tighten it a bit, the aluminum ones will indent the wood just a little.
Just how I do things.

Buckhorn150 · Nov 22, 2014

I am missing the grip panel dowel, thanks for the help. $2.49 at brownells, on order.

Hondo44 · Nov 22, 2014

Too late now, but it's just a common roll pin. Cheaper at the hardware store w/o the $7 shipping.

Enigma · Nov 23, 2014

contender said:
All good advise above. Let me go a bit further.
If you have the correct Factory grips, there should be holes in the lower front edge corner on the inside of each panel, that fit over a protruding pin in the grip frame. That's the "locator" pin. Check that first.
Next, the spacer mentioned above.
I use the nylon ones vs the aluminum ones for a couple of reasons. One, while the grip frames SHOULD be 1/2" thick, I have often found the polishing process has them a few thousands thinner. This causes a grip panel to not quite seat against the gripframe. As such, I'm able to lightly sand off one side of the nylon easily to fit the guns. Next, I prefer nylon over the aluminum ones so that I don't get a dimpled ring in the back of the wood when I use them. If an aluminum one is used, and you do have to tighten it a bit, the aluminum ones will indent the wood just a little.
Just how I do things.

What Contender says about grip frames being uneven is absolutely true. That's why custom pistolsmiths like Hamilton Bowen charge upwards of $100 to 'deck,' or even the grip frame on their milling machine before fitting custom grips to it.

super blackhawk grip problems

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