Base pin question.

What is with the shoulder on some base pins? Does that serve a purpose or just for looks? Is one worth more or some other benefit one way or another?

Keeps you from pushing the base pin in to far and tying up the gun.

Initially the collared pins were only supplied on the 44 Mags. Some like them for looks or because a set screw can be installed in them. But only the single six pins can be pushed in too far. The standard pins for the med and large models had a slightly larger head and can not be pushed in too far either. Then all the large frame old and new models were supplied with them. The last couple of years they were phased out completely, even on the 44 Mag.

Thanks.

Not sure which I like better yet. I will see how my project goes. I may swap a shouldered one onto my blackhawk.

If you're going through the trouble of buying a new basepin, unless you really like the factory style - "not that there's anything wrong with that" in my best Seinfeld impression - you might consider one style or another of different basepin profiles. Belt Mountain and Power Custom both have readily available aftermarket pins in multiple profiles (Belt Mtn has 7 models in 5 profiles, with different locks on 2 of them).

I'm a big Fan of Elmer's, so even though my hand doesn't prefer the Bisley/#5 grip (Ron Power makes one), the Keith #5 basepin is a nice touch, and I like the hourglass profile much more than the standard cylinder shape. These were pretty standard fare for cowboy action shooters at the turn of the millennium, so I only wore them privately, lest be "just another face in the crowd" at the matches. I find, however, that the hourglass gives much better purchase than the standard basepin.



While I'm not a huge fan of the Colt style pin as stock, I've modified 4 of them for specific projects to make a very minimalist style basepin. Here's a picture of the stock condition:



I just figure if you're going to buy parts anyway, make it your own.

I highly recommend Kelye and belt mountain pins. Awesome guy to work with and his parts are secound to none.

Knurled locking



Sheriffs



Number 5

Interesting. What is the price point on some of these? I was just going to mod the factory unit. Factory is 10 bucks.

$25-30 and worth every penny. Tightens up the gun appreciably and ends any jump problems. Any ruger that proves to be interesting gets one. Getting ready to do another order for some new toys.

I've read that belt mountain pins make the gun too tight and the forcing cone erodes unevenly over time. Any truth to that?

drastic_quench said:

I've read that belt mountain pins make the gun too tight and the forcing cone erodes unevenly over time. Any truth to that?

Click to expand...

If that is the case,that gun has other issues like timing problems. :wink:

Yeah never had any problems with belt mountain products at all. Ever.

drastic_quench said:

I've read that belt mountain pins make the gun too tight and the forcing cone erodes unevenly over time. Any truth to that?

Click to expand...

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I'm thinking it's a safe bet to guess where you heard that...

Forcing cones erode eventually over time regardless of your basepin....

I'm a bit of a stickler for revolver specifications - a modified range rod dipped down the throat of my revolvers proves that there is no truth to the "oversized basepins cause misalignment of your cylinders" rumor.

Belt Mountain Webpage with Pricing

You might think it's a bit cumbersome to have to email an order form considering that this is 2014, but Kelye is damn quick at responding, and his delivery time is usually faster than getting parts from Midway. Most of what you're paying for in the belt mountain, is a "custom look," but you could also tell yourself that the extra $10-12 is for the lock. If you bought a drill bit, a tap, and a set screw to make your own locking pin, you'd have a lot more than $10-12 into it.

drastic_quench said:

I've read that belt mountain pins make the gun too tight and the forcing cone erodes unevenly over time. Any truth to that?

Click to expand...

The truth is more like this:
Mass production firearms are not line bored, therefore they are not as precisely fitted. If the base pin fits perfectly like a custom revolver, any cyl chamber to bore misalignment is accentuated. While a greater tolerance base pin will allow a little 'give' for the bullet to line up better with the forcing cone. That's why forcing cones were invented. There are cases where an accurate production gun actually shoots worse with a replaced, tighter fitting base pin because there's no 'give'.

To say the forcing cone will erode unevenly over time may be technically possible but from a practical reality, should not be a concern in one's lifetime. An immediate drop in accuracy however, is a concern.

Rule of thumb: keep a tight custom gun with all tight parts; keep a production gun with all production parts.

If a gun needs a base pin with greater grasping ability, it either has a fit problem or isn't cleaned regularly enough. A little polishing will cure the fit problem. Personally I've never had to use an after market pin in any of my numerous single actions and consider it a waste of money.

Properly fitting the base pin is just another item on my tuning checklist for any acquired SA, new or used. Same as the base pin latch. If the latch doesn't keep the pin from moving forward under recoil, it's not properly fit. I never compensate for poor fit with heavier springs!

That's why many manufacturer's action springs are usually overly heavy. Tune the parts and lighten the springs; then wear is reduced and longevity of the revolver is increased every time.

Belt Mountain pins are the cat's pajamas, and so are the Belt mountains. Right out my window.

They are oversized so they remove extra wobble and slack, thus improving the lockup. I highly recommend them.

Oh they're top quality, no doubt about that. And for looks, their Colt replica beats the heck out of the Ruger 'nail head' pin.

First thing I do to all my Ruger BH's (other than Bowen customs, which are already fitted) is install a BM locking base pin and a Bowen target rear sight (when available).

Some interesting cons to oversized base pins here:

http://singleactions.proboards.com/thread/7316

I think I will just mod a couple stock pins. I want to turn the "handle" part down, shorten it so I can get it out of the Blackhawk, and maybe knurl it too. We'll see though. Having issues with Midway right now and not sure if or when my project will start.