good coating??

i have a blued revolver, it had rust but i now have it rust free. at the back of the cylinder there is bare metal all the way around in a narrow line as well as spots here and there. the top strap had a line on each side bare as is the barrel tip and about an half inch down each side from barrel tip, and on bottom of trigger guard. i have tried the bluing pen but it just comes off. is there better bluing stuff?, is there a coating i can put on it? i can't spend a whole lot right now, but would like to darken these area's in. a friend told me put rust reformer on it as it will turn blue black and leave a coating to protect but i wonder how durable it would be? what do ya'll use?, thanks for any help.

Brownells offers a couple cold-blue products that when properly applied may last a long time.....


But it's still just bluing.

WESHOOT2 said:

Brownells offers a couple cold-blue products that when properly applied may last a long time.....


But it's still just bluing.

Click to expand...

bluing would be fine as long as it stayed a while, the perma blue rubs completely off by the second oiling. i wouldn't mind reapplying once a month or so but several times a week gets old. i thought of duracoat but was told i had to blast my gun to get it to stay good, applying it straight over my bluing won't hold and no body near me does that. thanks

I have had good results with 44-40 Gun Blue. It is available through Brownells. I never had much luck with the Birchwood Casey products.

i have been re thinking and it might be better if i leave it be, as i will be carrying it regular and it will wear off anyway's. just hope keeping those bare spots oiled will be enough to stop rust. thanks

Outters used to make a gun grease. It looked as if it had graphite in it. Black as coal. A little on a rag stretched over your trigger finger and applied over a degreased surface will protect it for a long time. Comes in a small tube similar to tooth paste but smaller. Hard to find but worth the effort. I buy all I find and keep it on all my guns. Never had one rust since I started using it.

I used Perma Blue to touch up the muzzle of my Bisley when I cut the barrel to 6" and it still looks good 7 years later. It took a few "coats" to get the color right.

No rust = Robar's NP3

OIL + 1

Turtle wax

i have found this, watched a few video's and this will keep rust away and protect the metal. have anyone used Flitz Rifle/Gun Wax? it supposed to be good, i'm gonna try it. thanks

UPDATE: i messed up big time today, i tried g96 cold blue. big mistake it took my bluing off my cylinder. now i have thumbnail size blotches of bare metal all over the cylinder. i don't know what is in it but it ain't good. now it looks like as much as i like this gun i can't live with it like it is and i need a handgun so sending it off is a no go either. gonna post it for sale soon, if i could kick myself i would. i wished i had left it alone but thats seems to be my luck lately. thanks again for every ones help.

I havn't found any cold bluing that will touch up spots to look like the original bluing. That said, the best that I have found is Oxpho-Blue from Brownells. I blued a Remington .22 from which I had removed all the original finish and reblued and was pleasantly surprised with the result. You may want to remove all the finish from the cylinder and then cold blue it. It will probably give you a two-tone look but at least the cylinder color will be consistent.

I'll second the Oxpho Blue, it works very good on touch ups. I use a Q-Tip, for touch ups, that for me seems to work the best. Just follow the directions on the bottle.

It's your gun of course but think twice about selling it. The value will be a lot less if the cylinder is as you described. In the first post you mentioned a thin line on the cylinder. Is that the drag line you're talking about? On a new model isn't that unavoidable? So it will keep coming back, cold blue or not.

Kevin said:

It's your gun of course but think twice about selling it. The value will be a lot less if the cylinder is as you described. In the first post you mentioned a thin line on the cylinder. Is that the drag line you're talking about? On a new model isn't that unavoidable? So it will keep coming back, cold blue or not.

Click to expand...

no it was at the very back edge of the cylinder, wished i hadn't messed with it. i am a little lucky tho, the frame was at 98%+ so i didn't try to blue it thank goodness. but the cylinder now is about 70% bluing left. i just can't handle complete bare spots unless they are small, if it was just lightly blued i'd be ok. i just need the cylinder blued so may be it won't cost too much. and i can mail the cylinder myself. thanks

I second the Robar NP3....have it on two revolvers....its awesome.

Keep the gun, shoot it and shoot it some more, practice drawing from a holster with it for hours a day, in short make the gun your "knockabout" partner and before you know it it will be the best revolver you've ever owned.

i have a neighbor that came over, he got some duracoat for his guns. said he didn't have enough to try my whole gun but would do my cylinder. i thought well by gun frame don't need it so ok go ahead as i have decided to keep it even if i have to send the cylinder off. i've had several friends that offered to loan me one of there guns till mine is fixed so i have that problem solved. he said he would bring it back tomorrow. i will post a picture when he is done. thanks again

i got my cylinder back, it looks great and i will post a pic soon. seems to be a very hard coating of some sort, all he had was flat black but it looks ok. i like it, and also i wanted to update that i called ruger, they won't blue my cylinder or gun or nothing. they only service current models. i called twice and talked to two different people and got the same answer. they also told me that i could send the whole gun in and get a gp100 or sp101 at a discounted price. looks like if this coating doesn't hold i'll be sending my cylinder to someone who can do it at a fair price. thanks and pics to come soon.