NM Single-Six hammer function: how many clicks?

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bczrx

Single-Sixer
Joined
Sep 28, 2010
Messages
121
Location
South San Joaquin Valley, CA
Hello,

I'm new to single-action revolvers. I just picked up a mid-'70s Single-Six, cleaned it up and am waiting for a range-day.

As I was cleaning it and preparing it for the range I noticed something that I didn't understand, so I thought I'd ask the collective for some insight.

First off, I am not new to firearms and have done sear/trigger work on many semi-autos. I have also really really smoothened out my GP100, SP101 and SRH in their single-action stage, while retaining a strong sear engagement. Passes the 'push-off' test on the hammer, etc.

So don't be afraid to be precise and/or technical in your explanations. If I don't get it, I'll ask. But I prefer detail to vague explanations.

The characteristic that I noticed is the number of hammer clicks as the cylinder locks up.

What I am seeing is that there are three 'clicks' as I cock it.

The first is at the very beginning of rearward motion [I think as the cylinder latch drops and the ratchet thingy pops down onto the next ledge to start moving up?].

The second will lock the hammer back at almost the rearward maximum of what you can pull the hammer. I can pull the hammer back very slowly and lock it on the sear at this stage.

However, the cylinder isn't locked into place. A slight pressure on the cylinder causes the cylinder to lock up.

If I pull the hammer ALL the way to the rear, I will pull it past the sear lock stage by a tenth inch or so and it will 'click' a third time. I then let the hammer loose and it stops on the sear.

After pulling the hammer all the way back, the cylinder is locked up.

Here is the question: is this normal?

It happens with either cylinder installed.



I didn't notice it at first, as I was just pulling the hammer all the way back and it was staying on the sear at that stage. I thought I had heard a 'click' 'click-click' as I cocked it, but know nothing about how this is SUPPOSED to work.

slow-motion on the hammer revealed that the hammer went past the sear to lock the cylinder up, and then went forward to stop on the sear.


My experience with the da/sa versions of Rugers made me think that the cylinder lock up should happen at the same time [if not before] the hammer locks onto the sear.

Can someone clarify this for me please?

thank you!
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
11,674
Location
Kentucky
I find the timing on all Ruger single actions to vary with the individual guns.

Theoretically, the bolt should lock the cylinder in place at the same time, or JUST BARELY before the hammer goes past the "full-cock" sear notch.

That said. I have guns, both Old Models and New Models, that behave like yours upon VERY CLOSE examination, as well as other variations of the final timing.

Probably not exactly right, but with the "normal" application of force during the cocking operation it doesn't seem to hurt anything so long as the cylinder is finally locked before firing. As long as you are aware of all this, you're probably OK, but I'm not an expert nor do I play one on the internet. Your mileage may vary. Close cover before striking. Do not take internally.

And JMHO.

;)
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
25,444
Location
Lake Lure NC USA
I'm with Ale-8(1). I too have many different ones & find the same results. From your description of things,, all is "normal!"
 

bczrx

Single-Sixer
Joined
Sep 28, 2010
Messages
121
Location
South San Joaquin Valley, CA
Thanks!

That makes me feel better.

I checked the timing by cocking the gun the 'normal' way [to me: pull the hammer all the way back in one smooth decisive motion and leave it on sear/trigger. Not slowly going back until I find the sear] and the cylinders locked up just fine. At lock up, all the chambers appeared to be properly lined up with the barrel also.

My lame test for barrel/chamber alignment was to use my fiberglass cleaning rod and slide it along the left/right sides of the barrel into the chamber. If it met any resistance as it transitioned into the chamber from the barrel, then my theory was that the chamber wasn't properly lined up and the rod was nudging the side of the chamber, before bumping the cylinder enough to make it line up again.

I can't get to my gunsmith until Friday, so I won't use it until after he double-checks everything.

My instinct is that this is a safe condition, but I appreciate the experience you have shared to make me less stressed!.
 

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