removing light rust

on my service six i have light specks of rust on the gun, i can't afford a hot blue and i don't do cold blue well and wouldn't want to cold blue as it don't last for me. the blueing is good on the gun, just the specks of rust are on it but they are stuborn. they aren't all over it in patches just tiny pin head size specks on the frame and cylinder here and there. i have fritz metal polish and wonder about it. now i have one more question, if i keep it cleaned and oiled will it get worse? it will be my woods gun so as long as it wouldn't get worse i'm fine with it. but if it would i want to stop it if i can. thanks for any help

I've had pretty good luck using very fine 0000 steel wool with a liberal helping of oil and a very, very gentle application.

Very gentle.

As long as you wipe it down with a lightly-oily rag occasionally, it shouldn't get worse.

JMHO

I use ATF & 0000 steel wool with very lite hand.

Another vote for 0000 or 00000 steel wool and oil.

I would NOT use Flitz on it. I think it can take bluing off (it's a very fine abrasive). It's good on bare steel or stainless, though.

The reason steel wool works is, it's harder than rust, but not as hard as pristine blued steel.

Jeweler's rouge or pencil eraser...very gently?

There's also a type of steel wool which resembles linguini - flat strands of steel wool.

Here it is:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/metal-wool/stainless-steel-sponge-prod21175.aspx

The explanation I've had about this product is that the "flats" scrape the rust off the flat surfaces of the gun without abrading the bluing.

It has worked well for me.

I did soak the rust spots with gun oil for a period of time before using the steel wool.

Oh - be very gentle on any edges of the gun (with either type of steel wool).

In my experience, that's where the bluing will come off quite easily.

And gentle is the operative word for the entire process.

Monty

P.S. Here a Brownell's video about this topic which I found:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=10990

I recommend against using steel wool. I use a flattened rifle cartridge as a scraper, to "knock off" the rust spots then use an oily rag. keep it oiled and the rust will stay away.

The important thing to realize is the rust itself is very abrasive so you want to scrape it off dry so that it falls away. You don't want to rub it in with a rag.

I use a product called "Blue Wonder" for any surface rust. It is also available as "RB17" at gun shops and through gunsmiths. Spread it on and then give a good rub with the finest steel wool. This removes rust but will not touch bluing. It is also biodegradable and has no harmful chemicals. Just keep it well oiled after every use and the rust will not come back. I have used this for many years on antique military firearms with great success. Why fool with other more invasive methods?Dave

0000 Steel wool, Gently!. ps

TRY A "TRUE" COPPER PENNY(FOR ME THAT IS PRE-64), RUB OVER THE BLOOM AND WIPE OFF WITH OILED CLOTH. IT SEEMS TO FILL THAT MINUTE VOID SOURCE OF RUST AND DOES NOT ALLOW RE-BLOOM...........

I've had great luck using HAWKEYE#28's method. Copper penny and oiled cloth. In my experience, it leaves behind some white spots since the bluing is gone from the rust, but no further rust occurs. And, most importantly, no damage to the surrounding bluing.

Chad

we too have done what 'Splitz' said, using the edge of a REAL copper penny ,and yes have used 0000 steel wool or if you can find it, at the Ace, 'Bronze' wool is even more forgiving.......gotta get at that "spec" of rust, and knock that "crust " ( or as Splitz stated , "the bloom"...) keep the surface oiled or we like to use 'RIG" (rust inhibiting grease)
any and ALL 'cold blues" are only temporary and do NOT replace 'hot bluing' but can be used to blend in some of the spot, this is usually a hit or miss (works or doesn't) gotta try different ones as some can ruin the surrounding area, say on the middle of the side plate or below the cylinder release latch on a double action revolver...............we have tried and used them ALL over the years, and always go back to the 44-40 formula from Gun Parts ( Numrich Arms) West Hurley,NY............everyone has their OWN 'favorite' :wink:

Since using conventional steel wool (of any size) WILL embed deposits of said RUSTABLE material (right back on the thing you're trying to de-rust), might I instead suggest using STAINLESS STEEL wool, available from folks like Brownells?

For light rust, no deep pitting, I use aluminum foil and light oil. The aluminum is softer than the blueing but harder than the rust. I cleaned up a nice old Colt Police Positive Special with this technique and it worked great. Takes a little time and one has to keep wiping the excess away.
I was surprised how well it worked with no damage to the blueing. Got this from an old timer.
Terry T

Dantforth said:

I use a product called "Blue Wonder" for any surface rust. It is also available as "RB17" at gun shops and through gunsmiths. Spread it on and then give a good rub with the finest steel wool. This removes rust but will not touch bluing. It is also biodegradable and has no harmful chemicals. Just keep it well oiled after every use and the rust will not come back. I have used this for many years on antique military firearms with great success. Why fool with other more invasive methods?Dave

Click to expand...

Thank you for this recommendation.

The website claims that their product will remove oxides of Cu and Pb in the bore, and, since rust is an oxide of Fe, it can be used for rust removal, also.

And it's non-toxic.

http://www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderGunCleaner.html

I'll look into this further.

Thanks again -

Monty

I will second Blue Wonder. I had a rifle that I had shot corrosive ammo out of. I thought I got it clean, but not quite. It sat for a number of years and you can imagine what it looked like coming out of the safe. Used the Blue Wonder and it cleaned it all up. I'm sold on it, FWIW.

Montelores said:

There's also a type of steel wool which resembles linguini - flat strands of steel wool.

Here it is:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/metal-wool/stainless-steel-sponge-prod21175.aspx

The explanation I've had about this product is that the "flats" scrape the rust off the flat surfaces of the gun without abrading the bluing.

It has worked well for me.

I did soak the rust spots with gun oil for a period of time before using the steel wool.

Oh - be very gentle on any edges of the gun (with either type of steel wool).

In my experience, that's where the bluing will come off quite easily.

And gentle is the operative word for the entire process.

Monty

P.S. Here a Brownell's video about this topic which I found:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=10990

Click to expand...

+1 for this product. I bought some to remove rust from my Coyote Edition LCP that had formed on the slide from sweat in my pocket holster. It removed the rust nicely without harming the bluing.

RB17, made from horse manure, is a secret bore cleaner for certain specialized rifle shooters.

I use it exclusively to clean the bores of my handguns.

+3 for Blue Wonder.

My gunsmith friend highly recommends Blue Wonder applied with Brownell's "linguini" steel wool sponge. If you can't find the BW, use the "linguini" sponge with a medium weight oil for best results. Again, be careful on or near any edges.

Once you've successfully removed the pitting, it's important to wipe off any excess BW or oil and apply 2-3 coats of Renaissance Wax to help prevent further pitting. This stuff is like magic and is readily endorsed for use on valuable antique and modern firearms, all stock & grip material, custom knives, antique furniture, rare paintings, etc.

Shadow