P85 trigger geometries (angle of the dangle in ALUMINUM)

Now that WI deer season is over (it is IMHO), time to turn back to the P85. Dropped in the blued original (longer) slide stop. Hogue rubber grips (meh). P94 trigger inbound, supposedly with metal removal it will work, but a P95 trigger would be less manuel labor (yeah, I've hear of him, never met him, though). If I get really excited, I might finally install the Millett Accu-site...

After expending slight mental effort, it appears that Ruger did think out a real simple-dimple trigger pivot using the ears on the upper part of the trigger, with a mating relief in the ALUMINUM (not nylon!) frame for the trigger to swing in.

Any attempt to use an overtravel screw in the trigger itself will not be fruitful, what will that screw come to rest against, ALUMINUM (not nylon) or a moving steel part? About the only way to reduce trigger travel might be to shorten the Trigger Bar a skosh, maybe .050 or so, by cutting it in the middle (maintaining alignment) and brazing or welding it back together. I would bet there are too many geometries that depend on the trigger bar to play with it too much.

Confused ... No nylon in the P85. I would not mess with that trigger bar unless you have 3 or 10. Not made any more and they are fitted to each gun just a bit. Usually clearance get for frame differences. I always liked the earlier triggers better anyway.

Best bet for a better trigger is to polish contact surfaces and play with the main spring weights.

modrifle3 said:

Best bet for a better trigger is to polish contact surfaces and play with the main spring weights.

Click to expand...

After I posted, I looked at the frame, and it is ALUMINUM. :wink:

Contact surfaces on what part(s)? Polish with what?

Has there been a thread on this, and what was it called?

UPDATE:
1) polish trigger
2) polish sear and face of hammer
3) polish contact points of abrasion on the trigger bar
4) polish hammer strut (top and side points of contact)