welcome to the Forum.......we find it is usually a case by case, gotta see how much, how bad, etc to make a proper determination as to just what needs to be done, myself, I use small swiss files, emery(garnet) or aluminum oxide paper to remove first any nicks, scratches, marks, etc...then I use a Scotch Brite pad to blend the area in to the surrounding areas, as well as use ,go in the same direction of the polishing marks that are on the guns finish..I do NOT use power equipment, Dremels, etc, we do it all by hand...yes takes time to learn "how" hard to press and the directions one needs to polish, but with time and practice it works out...I've been doing this since the late 1960s so have a kinda good idea what and how to.......same goes for the grits of the papers to be used, or the pads ( different colors in the case of the pads) but I use what ever is laying around, mainly "used" pads...new ones can and will be very aggressive...in the case of stainless metals, very simple and easy as the surface of most all gun alloys of stainless are very soft,one reason they scratch and nick so easily.................the pads can and will "replicate" the factroy finish as long as you use the proper direction of polish....speaking of polish any of the "semichrome", Flitz, Maas or our favorite 'Mothers Aluminum Billet polish can make the outside of a stainless gun look like a mirror or a nickel, chrome plating...again folks 'preference' shiny or 'satin' ...if you want "dull" or a matte finsih, we use glass beads and very low air pressure. If you go this route, you should take the gun apart as you WILL get 'glass' in the action and will take a long time to flush it all out properly.......... :roll:
Good luck, and practice, practice, practice........ :wink:
