new sights on a kp95dc
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I have changed a front sight but not rear. What do you want the sights changed for? Do you use the gun in the dark or just target in the day?
Night sights would be the first choice for me and I would go Trijicon. I actually have an old set but they are very old and getting dim. Never installed. My thought was to send in and have the sights redone and then pop them on but haven't.
Welcome here
Night sights would be the first choice for me and I would go Trijicon. I actually have an old set but they are very old and getting dim. Never installed. My thought was to send in and have the sights redone and then pop them on but haven't.
Welcome here
OldePhart
Blackhawk
I'm a real fan of the TruGlo TFO (tritium fiber optic) sights - especially since my vision is dimming with age. I don't know if they make a set for the kp95 but if they do that would be my first choice as they work very well in just about any lighting conditions. Front sight is the most critical, of course.
Beg, borrow, buy, or steal a sight pusher if you have to replace a dovetailed sight that doesn't use a set screw (i.e. a true, tight, dovetail fit) - there are some available now that are crudely built and require a little ingenuity in terms of using shims and stuff to fit a particular slide - but they are inexpensive enough to pay for themselves the first time you use it.
John
Beg, borrow, buy, or steal a sight pusher if you have to replace a dovetailed sight that doesn't use a set screw (i.e. a true, tight, dovetail fit) - there are some available now that are crudely built and require a little ingenuity in terms of using shims and stuff to fit a particular slide - but they are inexpensive enough to pay for themselves the first time you use it.
John
22/45 Fan
Hunter
Years ago I installed a set of Millett fully adjustable sights on my P-95 and they were a great improvement but, unfortunately Millett no longer makes iron sights of any kind.
Currently the only replacement sights for the P95 I'm aware of are LPA fiber optic fully adjustables like these: http://precisionsalesintl.com/Product/ttf91ru.html
Installation is pretty straight forward. Field strip the gun and remove the barrel and recoil spring from the slide.
The front sight requires a small hammer, a 1/16" punch and a 1/16" drill bit, preferably in a drill press. Using the punch, drift out the two retaining pins and remove the factory blade. Seat the replacement blade firmly in the slot and tape it temporarily in place. Using the 1/16" drill bit, drill one of the holes using the hole in the ramp as a guide. I like to drill about half way through and turn the slide over and complete the hole from the other side. This assures the holes line up. Insert and seat the one pin and repeat for the other.
The rear sight requires an allen wrench to loosen the set screw and a brass punch to drift out the rear sight. Clamp the slide firmly in a padded bench vise and pound out the sight from left to right. It may be VERY tight or a slip fit. I've seen both. Be very careful not to lose the firing pin block spring and plunger under the right side of the sight as it comes off. Try fit the new rear sight and, if necessary, file the sight base dovetail (NOT the slide) until you can push it into the slide about 1/3 of the way. File slowly and try fit often . You can remove more metal but can't put it back. Once the fit is good, replace the spring and plunger and trap them under the new sight as you push it in, then drive it all the way to center with the hammer and punch. Tighten the two allen set screws and you are done.
Currently the only replacement sights for the P95 I'm aware of are LPA fiber optic fully adjustables like these: http://precisionsalesintl.com/Product/ttf91ru.html
Installation is pretty straight forward. Field strip the gun and remove the barrel and recoil spring from the slide.
The front sight requires a small hammer, a 1/16" punch and a 1/16" drill bit, preferably in a drill press. Using the punch, drift out the two retaining pins and remove the factory blade. Seat the replacement blade firmly in the slot and tape it temporarily in place. Using the 1/16" drill bit, drill one of the holes using the hole in the ramp as a guide. I like to drill about half way through and turn the slide over and complete the hole from the other side. This assures the holes line up. Insert and seat the one pin and repeat for the other.
The rear sight requires an allen wrench to loosen the set screw and a brass punch to drift out the rear sight. Clamp the slide firmly in a padded bench vise and pound out the sight from left to right. It may be VERY tight or a slip fit. I've seen both. Be very careful not to lose the firing pin block spring and plunger under the right side of the sight as it comes off. Try fit the new rear sight and, if necessary, file the sight base dovetail (NOT the slide) until you can push it into the slide about 1/3 of the way. File slowly and try fit often . You can remove more metal but can't put it back. Once the fit is good, replace the spring and plunger and trap them under the new sight as you push it in, then drive it all the way to center with the hammer and punch. Tighten the two allen set screws and you are done.
Cheesewhiz
Hunter
I think 22/45 meant to say "file the bottom of the rear sight dovetail". You don't want to touch the top portion of the dovetail.
...and I would not ever use a file, I use a stone for dovetails. I have a whole bunch of stones for working on guns. They take off a slight amount and with a dovetail, I use a oil bench stone by Norton but you can use something else that would allow multiple uses. It has to be large enough to be a larger flat surface that you push the sight (part) across and keep it dead flat against the surface.
I do recommend an oil stone though.
This one might fit your use and still be used for sharpening knives and such:
http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Crystolon-Combination-Oilstone-Coarse/dp/B0001MSA5Y/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420923517&sr=1-7&keywords=norton+stone
...and I would not ever use a file, I use a stone for dovetails. I have a whole bunch of stones for working on guns. They take off a slight amount and with a dovetail, I use a oil bench stone by Norton but you can use something else that would allow multiple uses. It has to be large enough to be a larger flat surface that you push the sight (part) across and keep it dead flat against the surface.
I do recommend an oil stone though.
This one might fit your use and still be used for sharpening knives and such:
http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Crystolon-Combination-Oilstone-Coarse/dp/B0001MSA5Y/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420923517&sr=1-7&keywords=norton+stone
22/45 Fan
Hunter
I've actually both stoned the bottom of the sight's dovetail and actually filed the bevel on one side using a small triangular file and being careful to maintain the angle. Only file one side to assure the sight remains at exactly 90 degrees to the centerline of the slide.Cheesewhiz said:
Both techniques work but I've come across dovetails that were quite oversize and a lot of filing was needed. Stoning that much off the bottom could shorten the dovetail's height enough to let the sight body interfere with the top of the slide. As I said above, try-fit it a lot. There is no going back.
