OldePhart
Blackhawk
I did have to remove the trigger - I might have been able to get it out without doing so as some people claim to have done but mine was very tight and I didn't want to risk scratching the lobes on the trigger. I think maybe Ruger has two different parts - one with a deeper tab - because the tab on mine looked longer than the tab on one video where the guy removed it without removing the trigger.
Taking the trigger out is no big deal anyway - one more easily removed pin and the trigger spring and pivot fall out, releasing the trigger. Just remember to orient the spring right when putting the pin back in (spring should be roughly a 180 degree sweep to lock against the transfer bar). It will be obvious if you have it wrong, it will be impossible or nearly so to wind the spring around and clip it under the transfer bar.
There is a good detail strip video on YouTube from GallowayPrecision - it's better than any of the "magazine disconnect removal" videos I've found so far. You don't have to do everything in the video just to remove the magazine disconnect - you can leave the sear and sear spring and even the safety - though the safety will probably fall off as you're handling it anyway so probably better to remove it so you can pay close attention to how it goes back together. One thing I'd recommend different from what is shown on that video - when removing the roll pin that holds the trigger safety in I would not push it all the way through. Push it just far enough to clear the safety lever. That way you don't have the issues of starting a roll pin into the hole when you put it back, it's already started, just line up the safety and push the pin through.
As always, anytime you work on the gutses do a complete function check (safeties, etc.) once it's back together.
John
Taking the trigger out is no big deal anyway - one more easily removed pin and the trigger spring and pivot fall out, releasing the trigger. Just remember to orient the spring right when putting the pin back in (spring should be roughly a 180 degree sweep to lock against the transfer bar). It will be obvious if you have it wrong, it will be impossible or nearly so to wind the spring around and clip it under the transfer bar.
There is a good detail strip video on YouTube from GallowayPrecision - it's better than any of the "magazine disconnect removal" videos I've found so far. You don't have to do everything in the video just to remove the magazine disconnect - you can leave the sear and sear spring and even the safety - though the safety will probably fall off as you're handling it anyway so probably better to remove it so you can pay close attention to how it goes back together. One thing I'd recommend different from what is shown on that video - when removing the roll pin that holds the trigger safety in I would not push it all the way through. Push it just far enough to clear the safety lever. That way you don't have the issues of starting a roll pin into the hole when you put it back, it's already started, just line up the safety and push the pin through.
As always, anytime you work on the gutses do a complete function check (safeties, etc.) once it's back together.
John