P-Series trigger modification?

Being new here I searched the past posts, with negative results, so I thought I would ask the wizards.

I took the new-to-me P89T out for a bench rest sand bagged trial. It is consistently accurate, however the trigger has long travel and more than a bit creepy at the end. This is not a new revelation for me regarding Rugers, my P95 was exactly the same. So, is there anything that can be done to improve the trigger pull.

No, I doubt it can ever be like my Walther P5, which when cocked if the trigger moves it fires. I really like the look and feel of the P89T, but it needs a better trigger function.

Thanks

Osage

Some switch to a P95 trigger to change the reach a bit. If you still have your 95 it would cost nothing to try it. But if you like it, it may prove hard to find another 95 trigger to make the change.

hard to see but my avitar has 95 trigger and decock levers.

P series guns don't lend themselves to trigger mods very well. You can look for interlocking edges that could be a little sharp and possibly stone them but my guess is you won't find anything that sticks out that will need work. Changing out the mainspring will lower the trigger pull a bit but it will also cause light strikes. I will tell you that the more you shoot that gun the better the trigger will feel but that's more likely a case of you getting use to it than the trigger actually getting better.

I changed the hammer spring on my old .40 caliber P94. I never had a light strike & it did lighten the pull. It didn't change the length of travel, etc. though. After shooting the gun more & a discussion with a local LEO I decided to change back to the stock spring. I actually liked the way the trigger felt better with the stock spring after it had wore in (after about 1500-2000 rounds and a lot of dry firing).

Mike J said:

I changed the hammer spring on my old .40 caliber P94. I never had a light strike & it did lighten the pull. It didn't change the length of travel, etc. though. After shooting the gun more & a discussion with a local LEO I decided to change back to the stock spring. I actually liked the way the trigger felt better with the stock spring after it had wore in (after about 1500-2000 rounds and a lot of dry firing).

Click to expand...

Was your spring a -1? I know Wolf's -2 caused light strikes in P85/P89's with some ammo.

It was a 19 pound spring. I bought a kit that came with a 19, 20 & 21 pound spring. I believe the stock spring that Ruger used was 22 pound. Maybe I was just lucky.

Mike J said:

It was a 19 pound spring. I bought a kit that came with a 19, 20 & 21 pound spring. I believe the stock spring that Ruger used was 22 pound. Maybe I was just lucky.

Click to expand...

Yes, 22# is the stock weight, at least for the 85/89's, I am surprised that your gun didn't have issues with a -3#. I know that even a fair few on this forum had problems with light strikes when they changed out their main springs on P series guns.

Added Note: changing the length of travel on a trigger in most DA/SA pistols requires that the "hooks" position be changed within the trigger group; on P series guns this would need to be a newly designed hammer at least.

Oops, pushed the wrong button and started a new post, but I think I fixed it.

Even though I'm not a competition shooter I like a short travel, solid final, trigger function. However, it sounds like that may not be possible with a P-Series Ruger. I recently learned there is an local area gunsmith who is apparently very good, so that will be my next inquiry. Actually, I rather doubt I can ever become consistently accurate "off hand" with my new-to-me P89.

Anyway, thanks again for the wisdom.

Osage

Osage said:

Oops, pushed the wrong button and started a new post, but I think I fixed it.

Even though I'm not a competition shooter I like a short travel, solid final, trigger function. However, it sounds like that may not be possible with a P-Series Ruger. I recently learned there is an local area gunsmith who is apparently very good, so that will be my next inquiry. Actually, I rather doubt I can ever become consistently accurate "off hand" with my new-to-me P89.

Anyway, thanks again for the wisdom.

Osage

Click to expand...

Most Ruger DAs are designed such that changing the trigger geometry is very hard to do. As was stated properly stoning the surfaces will smooth it out, but length of pull will not change. I do not recommend changing any stock internals on the P89 because Ruger has almost nothing left and if it breaks due to modification you may be hunting on ebay for parts.

Or as I recommend with anything, pull the stock parts put them in a bag and modify new parts so your pistol can always be returned to its factory state. Unless you are building a gun of course.

roylt said:

Some switch to a P95 trigger to change the reach a bit. If you still have your 95 it would cost nothing to try it. But if you like it, it may prove hard to find another 95 trigger to make the change.

Click to expand...

I've looked. I've not been able to locate a source that has them in stock.

I suspect folks doing the conversion have bought out stock everywhere.

Modrifle3:

After reading your post, I had already decided against any modifications to my pristine P89, however since I had an appointment with the gunsmith, I went.

Not too surprising, he stated the trigger travel in the P-Series Rugers could not be feasibly reduced and that the final creep would improve over time.

Other interesting insight from the gunsmith, was as he stated that, modifying a gun normally only increases the value in the owners mind.

With regard to the Ruger P89, he also said that the only problems he had ever seen were owner caused, in other words, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

Osage

Amen. the P-guns just work and work and work. I have a few and they all run anytime I ask them to.

Enjoy.