P94 9mm Jams Loading Round

I picked up what looked to be a hardly used PC94. Using new Ruger magazines, I have been getting jammed rounds. Mostly the first round but some subsequent.
Sometimes when I push down on the top/back back of the barrel block it loads. Otherwise need to drop magazine and pull back slide to clear.

Happens with both Remington & Winchester ammo.

I noted a bit of scuffing on the cartridge about 1/4" behind back of bullet.

Any suggestions? Is there a way to post pics? Perhaps to different forum section?

The mags are OK since they feed my PC9 flawlessly.

To clarify this is a P94 not a pc94...

You have to host pics off site. Try: http://postimage.org/

Are you riding the slide in anyway? That is my only thought without pics.

Welcome by the way from one of the P-nut group.

Here is a pic, I'll do more and clearer when I clean it.

The slide is pulled back and released quickly.

http://postimg.org/image/vkaj26st1/

Things to checklist...

Check feed ramp [any abnormalities?]
Check extractor [no chips, dings, wrong angles?]
Check magazine lips [these must be shaped right]
Check recoil spring weight [strong enough to shove the round into the toob]
Clean the P94 inside and out!
No limp wristing!

My apologies if this has been covered already. Just my standard checklist.

lbk said:

Here is a pic, I'll do more and clearer when I clean it.

The slide is pulled back and released quickly.

http://postimg.org/image/vkaj26st1/

Click to expand...

"Slingshotting the slide" that IS the proper term.

Maybe the feed ramp is out of spec?

I would also look at:
Round to barrel engagement when the barrel is out of the gun. Meaning just put a round in the chamber when the gun is apart and see if it feels right.
While the barrel is out of the slide, install on the frame and see if there is any drag. It should move freely. Hold the hammer down out of the way too. I had a slide that would drag because it was dropped and the rear was squeezing the frame as it went to battery.

Keep us posted. We'll figure it out.

polish the feed ramp and if that doesn't fix it, polish the breech face. 8)

Before you break out any polishing equipment . . . you most likely have an extractor issue. Look at how much tension is on the extractor as well as how sharp it is. Look at the case engagement area for small nicks in the brass.

Here is an example. I took two identical R1 1911s. And one had a nice smooth extractor that flush fit, the other had a rough extractor that stuck past the gun. I swapped extractors and neither would seata round on the first one. Same situation you described.

Few guns with spring steel extractors don't need tuning. Most likely the bottom needs polishing or the proper angle ground on it. Careful trying to bend the extractor as the bend is what holds it firmly in the gun. Most replacement P series extractors that are sold from Ruger are buffed pretty well so they drop in. When I say buffed, I mean with polishing rouge.

So far modrifle3's suggestion is the one that helps!!

The jams started when I was into my second magazine (as noted magazines are new) and the pistol was spotless and properly lubed.

I did a tear down and the bullets fed into the barrel smoothly.

Slide worked w/o any binding.

I pulled the extractor and did a number of sling shot loading of rounds....smooth as silk, no jams!!

So I'm now having to figure out what tension should the extractor have and where to polish (I'm familiar with polishing the action of my lever rifles) and/or improve configuration.

I'd sure like to get some replacement extractors just to have...

Anyone seen a YouTube on reworking the extractor??

Thanks for everyone's suggestions!!

Have you always started with a full magazine? Try a magazine loaded with just five rounds.

...and can you guys please stop hand cycling live rounds thru your guns, please just take some time and shoot them at a range. You can't hand cycle a gun anything like shooting it will be.

Believe it or not some new mags loaded fully puts just enough pressure on the slide to get it to get out of time, this goes away quickly.

...and polishing breachfaces is truly stupid.

If you have access to another p series you may want to look at its extractor. P89 p94 p95s should have the same extractor profile .... More our less. Polishing is usually done on the bottom and angle cut to promote positive movement of the round under the extractor.

May just need cleaned under there too.?. Remove, clean and reinstall to see how she runs.

OK so I made sure the extractor channel was clean (no dirt or residue found) and worked the extractor claw including bottom and edges with a bit of polish with the Dremel tool. Put it back together and still jams.

I also have a P94 in 40 S&W and the tension on the extractor is not as stiff. It cycles fine.

Can one adjust the tension of the extractor, should I even attempt w/o having a replacement available? I can't seem to track one down on the web -or- just contact Ruger & ship it to them?

Ruger will fix it for sure but I would try myself. Post pics of the parts and gun field striped please. I have a bunch of P-series and have never had any issues like this. Even with beat crap guns.

Here are a couple of better pics.
So the extractor tension feels tighter than on my other P94 (via pressure to move with my finger) . I did drop a note to Ruger to see what they have to say.
You can't see it in the pics but opposite the extractor on the breech there is a small crescent cut-out for the shell case. From below that where the shell should slide up and in it place it appears there is a little build up of metal outside where it as milled. I wish my camera could take that close up...I'm OK with polishing but hesitant to take off any real metal.

I've been manually working a shell case through the breech seating area and it feels a bit better than before but still will get quite a resistance.

http://postimg.org/image/9rw3u7iol/
http://postimg.org/image/rgnultufp/

Ruger will simply say ship it in. They won't commit to anything over the phone etc. Looks like it has not been shot much at all. May just need to losen up a bit from use. That cresent cut shouldn't bother anything. I have seen that before. You can try to weaken the extractor by bending it a little. In my limited experience it doesn't take a super tight extractor to do the job. I had a P95 that was almost loose but still worked.

Not 100% sure if this would work (i'm no gunsmith) but you could even remove the extractor and see if it feeds ok. Sort of take what you think is the issue out of the equation. You will have to manually remove the round so be safe.

Cheesewhiz said:

...and polishing breachfaces is truly stupid.

Click to expand...

Why? 8)

5of7 said:

Why? 8)

Click to expand...

I don't know , I guess I'll think about.


Oh now I know, most semi auto pistols headspace and index on the case mouth of the round being loaded, playing with those dimensions could cause as little as feeding issues to the gun not working at all. what is polishing? At what degree does a person attempt to polish something? Give me a number because someone might need it. Giving out bogus crud for a fix is just wrong. I have never heard of polishing a breachface in order to get a round to feed properly, the breach is basically the last thing that makes contact with it.

Cheesewhiz said:

5of7 said:

Why? 8)

Click to expand...

I don't know , I guess I'll think about.


Oh now I know, most semi auto pistols headspace and index on the case mouth of the round being loaded, playing with those dimensions could cause as little as feeding issues to the gun not working at all. what is polishing? At what degree does a person attempt to polish something? Give me a number because someone might need it. Giving out bogus crud for a fix is just wrong. I have never heard of polishing a breachface in order to get a round to feed properly, the breach is basically the last thing that makes contact with it.

Click to expand...

Polishing the breech face is accomplished by using crocus cloth attached to a thin piece of wood that has been shaped and dimensioned to properly access the target area to be polished, and then rubbed until the roughness left by the manufacturing process has been mitigated. It it quite difficult to remove more than .001" when polishing in this manner.

I assumed,(always dangerous in a discussion forum) that any serious gunner would understand that.

Apparently I was wrong. :lol: