Major problem today with my sr40c

I went to the range today to shoot my sr40c. I've owned this gun about 2 years and have fired around 2,000 round through it, and other than a rare failure to feed, easily resolved, I have never had a problem with this gun. Today, while admittedly shooting some cheap Russian ammo, Tulammo, the gun suddenly froze up. At first I was able to move the slide back and could see a case still in the chamber. But after two or three attempts to clear the round, the slide would not move at all. I removed the pin, removed the slide, and the spring, but with the top of the slide closed I could not get to the barrel to figure out how to remove the case. I reassembled the gun and now it is totally frozen. At least it was just at the range, not a self defense situation where I would be totally screwed.

Tomorrow I will get to a gunsmith and hope he can help; if not I will have to send it to Ruger. Does make me think about how mayby 5 is enough for carry with an absolutely reliable revolver.

I'm dumping all my plastic guns. I switched to revolver for main carry a while back... Ruger SP101 4 inch 5 shot.

Casing stuck in the chamber. Sometimes the extractor will shear the lip of the casing off making extraction impossible or the steel case round (Tula?)ruptured or expanded getting stuck in the chamber. The round is definitely spent, right? If it's not live and you can get the slide even slightly back, push the round from the muzzle back with a long eraser ended pencil to push the round out of the chamber. Might even need some light taps from a rubber mallet.When you drop the magazine, do you see anything out of the ordinary looking inside with a flashlight? I had this once in an AKM (shell extractor had to be used) and one in a Model 39 where the pencil deal worked perfectly, but I could open the action.The fact that you can't rack the slide open is a bit strange. The ejector is pushed down, the pin out, how far will it slide off the frame forward? Sounds more like the recoil spring has moved out of place.
Did the recoil spring assembly drop off its footing on the barrel? Had that happen with my SR9c and had to push the recoil spring assembly under the muzzle until it had clearance to allow the takedown. I can't imagine how a stuck casing wouldn't allow the gun to be racked open. If the gun is stuck in complete forward battery, the casing shouldn't be an issue because it isn't in the way of anything-just stuck. If the extractor is stuck on the rim of the steel case round push hard with your thumb on the rearward end of the extractor to free up the extractors grip on the casing. Interesting.

Assuming that it is a spent case inside the chamber here is what I would do. Put some soft wood or leather in the jaws of a vice to pad it. Tightly clasp the top of the slide behind the ejection port in the vice. Now, push forward on the frame to force the slide back- this may take two hands. The shell should eject or at least be stuck in the chamber and you can then lock the slide back and field strip the pistol.

Ferguson, can you see any scenario where a casing stuck in the chamber would not allow the gun to be racked? The only thing that could be hung up is the extractor not letting go of the extraction ridge on the round itself, no? The only other possibility I can imagine is the recoil spring slipping off the foot on the barrel.

vito said:

I went to the range today to shoot my sr40c. I've owned this gun about 2 years and have fired around 2,000 round through it, and other than a rare failure to feed, easily resolved, I have never had a problem with this gun. Today, while admittedly shooting some cheap Russian ammo, Tulammo, the gun suddenly froze up. At first I was able to move the slide back and could see a case still in the chamber. But after two or three attempts to clear the round, the slide would not move at all. I removed the pin, removed the slide, and the spring, but with the top of the slide closed I could not get to the barrel to figure out how to remove the case. I reassembled the gun and now it is totally frozen. At least it was just at the range, not a self defense situation where I would be totally screwed.

Tomorrow I will get to a gunsmith and hope he can help; if not I will have to send it to Ruger. Does make me think about how mayby 5 is enough for carry with an absolutely reliable revolver.

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Apparently your pistol was reliable before using the TULA ammo. You fired 2,000 rounds before the Tula jammed the gun. Tula may be OK for an AK, but normal guns choke on it. Some of the steel cased stuff has lacquer coating which can melt in the chamber. When you talk about getting a revolver, I would suggest that you are looking at the wrong end of the horse.

I have several Ruger revolvers and they are great guns but it is essential to keep area under the extractor star 100% clean or the cylinder will bind up. Also I would never dream of putting steel cased lacquered ammo in my revolver as it may cause cases to stick in the chambers. Get some good ammo after you get it fixed and you will be OK.

DA_TriggR4Ruger said:

I'm dumping all my plastic guns. I switched to revolver for main carry a while back... Ruger SP101 4 inch 5 shot.

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That's OK but bad ammo can disable a revolver too.

Mountain Walker: you were exactly right! The lacquer on the Tula is what caused the problem. Apparently as the barrel heated up after firing about 200 rounds the lacquer caused the case to lock up. All fixed, cleaned and not planning to use Tula again.

If you go to the dictionary and look up "Tula" you will see an illustration of dog poop. :wink:

Then what was the mystery of not being able to rack your gun open? A gooey casing sticking in the chamber (I've had that with steel case lacquered in 7.62x39 and 7.62x54r) wouldn't bind your action. The extractor would slip over the extraction ridge and the action would open leaving the casing in the chamber.

22/45 Fan said:

DA_TriggR4Ruger said:

I'm dumping all my plastic guns. I switched to revolver for main carry a while back... Ruger SP101 4 inch 5 shot.

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That's OK but bad ammo can disable a revolver too.

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Right On the money! Double Action Revolvers are pretty tight fitting and the Ruger is more so than the S&W. I have noticed that after firing my DA Rugers for 100 rounds plus that unburned powder flakes can work their way under the extractor star during extraction of spent cartridges. It doesn't take much to start slowing and binding the cylinder. Smith & Wesson has more clearance and is not as sensitive to debris. Also, experience has shown me that short barrel 357 Mag loads are not really realistic due to severe muzzle blast that wraps around and smacks you even with hearing protection. The 40SW in a Glock 27 or SR40c is much more manageable with very good power level. As for plastic guns, they have their place and are better tools for some tasks. I still love my Springfield Range Officer 1911, Kings Custom 1911 and other all steel guns, but for carry and every day use, plastic or aluminum frame guns are very functional. I think Vito is exceeding well armed with his SR40c!

Conn AK said:

Then what was the mystery of not being able to rack your gun open? A gooey casing sticking in the chamber (I've had that with steel case lacquered in 7.62x39 and 7.62x54r) wouldn't bind your action. The extractor would slip over the extraction ridge and the action would open leaving the casing in the chamber.

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I am going to guess here. The Ruger extractor seems oversize and would get an exceptionally good bite on the case rim. Therefore, there was not enough force to break the rim or extract it from the chamber. AK and SKS have more leverage than the Ruger pistols and all those AK chambers and bores are hard chrome lined which is a more slippery surface than machined stainless. Wish more manufactures would chrome line gun barrels.

I think it really was a combination of the heat in the barrel from firing a fair number of rounds in a short time, with the lacquer on the case of the Tula ammunition. After pushing out the case, thoroughly cleaning the entire gun, the action now works smoothly again. If I can't find quality ammo in the future I think I will have to break down and learn how to re-load myself.

I would never dream of putting steel cased lacquered ammo in my revolver as it may cause cases to stick in the chambers. Get some good ammo after you get it fixed and you will be OK.[/quote]

Never use Russian ammo those steel cases are hard on guns and extractors. There just flat is no way I'd use junk ammo like that. I won't use it in an AR. I sure wouldn't use it in a gun for SD. The lacquer just gums things up too bad. Pull your barrel and clean it out real good. Lesson learned. I picked up a 1000 round pack of 9mm recently UMC stuff. Still Remington. It's out there seems to be more 40 around than anything where I've been. I've given up on 40's but I may have to rethink that theory.

Its true! Capacity is very important. Shot placement is key, but capacity facilitates you getting more chances to place the one that matters.

I have been using a revolver in my carry rotation for years. But many autos out their would serve the purpose better.

I had a problem with tula brass 9mm in my sr9c,the slide would not go fully into battery and would jam with the action slightly openie not seated fully forward.
I had used boxes of it before but samples from three seperate 100 rd bins gave the same problem.

I guess the lesson from all of this is to stop using Tula cheap ammo. Its not worth the aggravation.

A gun should be able to run anything and everything, so long its the caliber that gun was designed for, out of the box.

Steel case, brass case, my guns run it all. If it cant, I replace it with a gun that can.

Accuracy. If a gun cant meet my minimum accuracy standards, it gets replaced by a gun that can.

You can cheapen up a firearm to only a point...