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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 11:41 am 
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Yeah...I am also working on an old Marlin lever action right now. Have noticed that different manufacturers use different steels. All take the bluing differently. Ruger 10/22 barrels finish in 3 or 4 coats while old remington barrels have taken me 9 cycles.



I am 100% convinced that it is a better finish than factory hot salt bluing.


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PostPosted: Sat May 01, 2010 6:41 am 
Buckeye
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I_Like_Pie,

How do you deal with areas where you do not want any bluing. Can they be taped off, coated with something, etc.?

Thanks

Wheelgunner


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:40 am 
Bearcat

Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 12:26 am
Posts: 59
Location: Savannah, Ga.
Wheelgunner: I have a similar question for the experts. When rust bluing what is the procedure to protect and clean up the action. Say you have a barreled action that you are rust bluing; you give it a coat in the areas you want to blue, but not in the interior of the action. Then it is placed in a sweat box and allowed to rust, or if the area is humid enough just left to hang and rust. I would think one would not want rust to form inside the action but I do not see how it is avoidable in a no lube, damp environment. How does on e clean up any rust that forms in the tight small nooks and cranies of an action; toothpicks, dental picks and fine steelwool and a lot of attention and elbow grease? Do the experts apply a rust preventative to the areas they do not want to rust, that seems impossible with the need / requirement for an absolutely oil free surface.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 10:13 am 
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For the inside of barrels I plug them up with dowel rods to prevent the acid from pitting.

I suppose that one would have a similar situation when hot salt bluing with rust getting into nooks and crannies. With that respect there are no shortcuts with rust bluing. You have tho take everything completely apart just like you would for hot salt bluing. A toothbrush, wet cotton cloth or toothpick can be used to card the nooks and crannies in the receiver. Items like the barrel to receiver threading are so tight that you should not have any issues with rust or acid getting into the threads.

I do think it would be possible to rust blue only the barrel with the receiver still attached (or visa versa). Rather than use oil or grease to protect the receiver you could layer a temporary coating of spray paint to the parts that you don't want blued and then remove the paint with thinner or a remover that wouldn't hurt the bluing after you are done. Same for the internal bits you are wanting to protect. I have done this with parkerizing and it worked very well.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 5:05 am 
Buckeye
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I_Like_Pie wrote:
For the inside of barrels I plug them up with dowel rods to prevent the acid from pitting.

I suppose that one would have a similar situation when hot salt bluing with rust getting into nooks and crannies. With that respect there are no shortcuts with rust bluing. You have tho take everything completely apart just like you would for hot salt bluing. A toothbrush, wet cotton cloth or toothpick can be used to card the nooks and crannies in the receiver. Items like the barrel to receiver threading are so tight that you should not have any issues with rust or acid getting into the threads.

I do think it would be possible to rust blue only the barrel with the receiver still attached (or visa versa). Rather than use oil or grease to protect the receiver you could layer a temporary coating of spray paint to the parts that you don't want blued and then remove the paint with thinner or a remover that wouldn't hurt the bluing after you are done. Same for the internal bits you are wanting to protect. I have done this with parkerizing and it worked very well.


I_Like_Pie,

Thanks. Sorry for the late response.

Wheelgunner


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:51 pm 
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Location: Beaver Pa Usa
If some one would be kind enough to post some pictures of a black hawk or single six that was rust blued I would be a happy man. Can a firearm be media blasted and then rust blued? Now in retirement I have the time thank you very much. Mtn Jack

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:57 am 
Bearcat

Joined: Thu Aug 30, 2012 5:03 pm
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Location: Florida
I_Like_pie, here's a sticky by Valmet 76 on AKFiles.com titled "Rust Blue." Loads of pics. Check it out..... Carl


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 9:34 pm 
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Does the firing pin assembly need to be removed before rust bluing a blackhawk? I am comfortable stripping everything else down but I've never removed the firing pin before and I wouldn't want to get rust down in there.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 3:02 pm 
Buckeye

Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 2:01 am
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Location: Maine
While my "current" method is not rust bluing, it has served me well for the dozen or so guns I have restored in the past 10 years since returning to Maine. I have enclosed "before and after" photos of a Springfield Model 87A I restored over the winter. It was one of the most rusted guns I ever undertook to restore. It had layed in a field behind an old barn for several years when it was found. The method I have been bluing these restorations is very simple to apply. A lot easier than either the hot tank bluing or rust bluing. (Been there done that)! After much preparation, draw filling, sanding strips on the lathe, (up to 600 grit) and polishing, the gun was ready for bluing. I hang the barreled action on a wire at face level between two hooks. I use Brownell's Oxpho Blue pretty exclusively that comes in a pint bottle. Use surgical gloves and apply the blue with cotton balls. "BEFORE" I apply the bluing, I "HEAT" the barrel and action with the "high" setting on a hand held "hair" dryer, (I get these from Goodwill used for from $1 to $3) Since one end will cool before the other end is heated, I do a 3 to 4 inch section at a time and coat the whole gun moderately. I repeat the process with several coatings until I get the color I want. The next process is to "stop" the bluing action with a clean rag and cold water. Take the barreled action off the wire and wipe down well with a dry, clean, red, shop rag. Apply a good coat of oil (I use RemOil) and let set for 24 hours. Apply another coat of oil and "LIGHTLY" rub the bluing with 0000 steel wool. From here on out, I put a coat of oil on the gun every 24 hours and simply rub it out with a clean, dry, shop rag and coat again with oil and let cure 48 hours. I do this last step several times over a couple of weeks. That's it. I'm then finished except for putting the gun back together. For small parts, I use the "heat with torch and dip method" in 30W Motor Oil. This method as you can see, puts a very nice blue on the gun. You do "ALL" the bluing in less than an hour and clean up is very easy. I have tried about 8 different bluing solutions with this method and Oxpho Blue definitely gives the very best results, gun to gun!...................DickImageImageImage


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:16 am 
Blackhawk

Joined: Sat May 15, 2010 5:39 pm
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Location: Northwestern Wisconsin
I know, I came to the party way late, so when I'm done I'll go to my room. :D The ONLY type of bluing I do anymore is "rust bluing". I used to do the hot dip caustic bluing, but with the EPA restrictions involved with the depleted bluing salts disposal, I just don't need to have black helicopters landing on my empire. Here's a Stevens Favorite 1915 that a Grampa brought me to refurbish for his grandson. Before and after photos:

Before:
Image

After:
Image

Before:
Image

After:
Image

The bore on this fine little rifle was rotted out so badly that the only way to get it up and running was to reline it. It now shoots very well and Grandpa and Grandson are both very happy.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 11:39 am 
Buckeye

Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 2:01 am
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Location: Maine
D A, Very,very nice job! This work is a labor of love. I love it when grandpa and grandson are involved. Nothing like that first time the boy sets his eyes on it. Again, congrats on a well done job!.................Dick :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2014 5:22 pm 
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thanks for the story/photos/inspiration!!.....now.....where's the "How to" part?????

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2014 4:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2006 1:01 am
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Location: Chattanooga, TN
That Favorite looks awesome!

I am doing the same right now with two old Winchester model 69s.
It is a good thing that time isn't money (despite the saying).


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 4:32 pm 
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Location: TX, home of DeeDee Snavely's Used Guns and Weapons
Very nice write up, thanks!

Two questions:

Can bronze wool be used instead of steel wool? I've always read steel wool can leave bits behind that may rust later. Might be an old wives tale, but I figured it's worth asking. :mrgreen:

You mentioned over polishing can make the process harder, or at least it takes longer. What about fine grit sandblasting? I have a Martini Cadet that was covered in surface rust that I blasted in the cabinet at work and we use a fine grit. Should I still polish with 220g, etc before the rust bluing process? My gut says yes unless it's a step that won't improve the finish or actually lengthens the process.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 5:11 pm 
Buckeye

Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 2:01 am
Posts: 1532
Location: Maine
Bronze Wool is too course. You need to stick with 0000 Steel Wool. Rubbing down after the steel wool with oil and a smooth rag will negate any problems with the steel wool. I have been doing this for over four decades without problems. Sandblasting with fine sand by itself, actually leaves a nice blued/phosphate (frosted) type finish which I find extremely durable in the field................Dick


Last edited by Pinecone on Sat Aug 16, 2014 3:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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