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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 5:44 pm 
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Location: Lake Lure NC USA
I need to strip the blueing off a gun,, and a chemical was recommended to do a good job. I had it written down,, and I can’t find my notes.
What is recommended by those who do more of this?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 6:16 pm 
Single-Sixer

Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2016 9:07 pm
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I've heard that vinegar will remove bluing, but there is probably a chemical that works better.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 6:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2002 2:01 am
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Location: Ohio , U.S.A.
lots of stuff out there will remove bluing,,,for around here I simply use naval jelly or any of the rust removers for farm stuff...muriatic acid but a very mild solution like 2 to 5 % you do not want to "etch" the metal, you can then just wipe the metal down with an old 3M scotch brite pad to burnish it up nice, OR polish things up,,,I stay away for power equipment these days ( no dremel tools and buffing wheels) 3M stuff is our friend.................yes I even still have one on the bench grinder for cylinders, barrels and housings, if "needed" 8) :roll: :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 6:43 pm 
Buckeye

Joined: Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:48 pm
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Location: Sonoran Desert Az.
I have used carburetor cleaner before. The kind that comes in the can with the little basket inside for soaking your parts in.
Not sure if the stuff in the spray can will work as good but it might be worth a try. It's cheaper.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 8:08 pm 
Hawkeye
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rugerguy wrote:
...simply use naval jelly or any of the rust removers for farm stuff...

This. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2019 12:51 am 
Hunter

Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2002 1:01 am
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Location: Daegu, Korea
Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover is readily available and safe to use. Evapo-Rust (auto parts store) will also work very well. Neither one will etch the metal, IME.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2019 7:05 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 18, 2002 1:01 am
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Location: Lake Lure NC USA
Thanks all.

I know I had an item different than above,, but heck,, naval jelly will be fine. I need it to get into the tiny spaces where it's hard to polish it off. I wanted to help a friend restore a cheap rifle,, but still an heirloom. I don't normally do any type of blueing work.
Naval jelly it is!

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2019 8:00 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Fri Apr 03, 2009 7:01 pm
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Location: People's Republik of Kalifornia
Not to be contrary here, but my experience with rust remover, specifically Naval Jelly is that it leaves an etched surface rather than smooth shiny steel, unless your very speedy to remove it. That etching creates a lot of extra leveling and polishing time!

Ideally, you want to strip the blue and be ready to re-blue, perhaps a minimal clean-up. I would stick with a specific for de-bluing product from Brownells or the like.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2019 12:52 pm 
Hunter
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Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2003 1:01 am
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Location: Davisburg, MI. USA
I have found blood works very well......... and quick.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2019 5:40 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2002 2:01 am
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Location: Ohio , U.S.A.
yessir, but it ( blood) will etch,,,,in fact if left on long enough , it can and will eat right through the metal 8) :roll: :wink:

( look at some "bring home" guns from any war ,conflict.........) :shock:

we've had them come in the shop from 'suicides' also....... :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2019 1:56 pm 
Buckeye

Joined: Sun Mar 23, 2008 2:51 pm
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Location: SW Oregon
Pickle juice works well.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2019 8:44 pm 
Bearcat

Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:23 am
Posts: 41
Location: Central Ohio
I used Naval Jelly to remove bluing on my LC9 slide. I wear it IWB and it was starting to react to sweat more than I wanted. I stripped it, used steel wool and cleaned it well, soaked it in Acetone for a few minutes and then used Cerakote. It has held up well now for 3 years. It worked well. I don't recall leaving it on but a couple minutes before wiping it off, and then rinsing it off.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:48 am 
Single-Sixer

Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 3:54 pm
Posts: 114
I used Muriatic acid diluted 3:1 with water. Rinse, neutralize with baking soda water mix and rinse again. Leave it in just long enough to remove the blue. Yes, the finish isn't shiny but for most bluing it will suffice. Since I only rust blued, it was perfect for my needs. But typically there was some degree of follow up polishing required. You don't usually reblue a gun that is free of surface defects. For a high gloss hot blue, yes, you will need to polish but that's a given.


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