Not a ruger but looking for help. Glenfield 60 22lr

The rear receiver screw was cross threaded and or seized. Head stripped and then bolt broke off. I have drilled it but there is still some of the screw in there. I was hoping to retap but not sure on thread size or if I have a good tap. Am I going about this the right way? Learning the hard way and looking for input.

I was lucky to find a couple loose parts inside the gun but still need an "E" clip to make it whole. May just leave it off for now as the stock holds the pins in anyway.


Thanks,

I posted in the lounge asking about take down info. Now I am asking how to fix a broken bolt etc.

I figured the smith area would be better to get help on repair.

This is going to be almost impossible for someone to help you with without more details about your firearm. I went on Numrich to see if I could see a picture of the screw you are referring to, only to learn that there are at least two different styles of Glenfield 60, both of which seem to have a pin in the rear of the receiver. You should probably determine which style you have and give a part number on a schematic so at least we know which screw/hole you are looking to fix.

That said, the repair will depend on whether you damaged the hole in drilling out the old screw. If you did, I'd be looking a thread inserts like Helicoils if the screw size is critical and D&T to the next size up if it is not. You should be able to pick pieces of the old thread out with a sharp metal pick, and if the hole was not too badly damaged by your drilling, just running a tap through to clean up the threads may be enough.

Pictures would definitely help here.

Thanks for the reply.
Oh man did I learn today.

This is the screw that goes through the stock at the back of the trigger guard up into the rear of the receiver.

So again, original bolt broke off. I drilled that out, used an extractor to get the end of the bolt out. Then didn't have the proper tap to clean the threads. I used the next smaller tap to sort of scrape the threads just to clean out the hole basically. Then a took a donor bolt and tried it. The threads on the bolt rounded over and started to bind so I took it out and thought for a minute. I have used self taping bolts before and they worked well so I figured I would try to make one out of the donor bolt. Ground a small slot in the end of the bolt and tried it. seemed to work. I put it in and took it out several times and then I had to try it just once more before being satisfied... and it snapped off...

Tried to drill it out but somehow got off track and ended up slipping and drilling off center. Then my drill bit broke off in the hole... I yelled a little bit but that didn't fix it either. Got a smaller drill bit and started again. Got the broke bit piece out by sure luck at this point. then couldn't get the piece of bolt out. So I figured I would cross drill to push the back of the bolt into the big hole I had already made. Couldn't hurt I thought and I was in way to deep to stop.

Cross drilled two holes and was able to push and get the broken bolt out.

Cleaned up the half threads that are still there and that is what is holding the gun together now.

The receiver has a second bolt holding it to the stock and then there are two bolt / screw holding in the trigger group (someone had already drilled the rear of the trigger group for a second screw.

So it is all back together and I learned a little something.

Hope everyone had a good weekend,

If I understand correctly, you damaged the hole that #47 in this schematic goes into: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/marlinglenfield/rifles-marlin/60-old-style

From a bit of research, looks like the receiver on these is aluminum. Neglected steel fasteners in aluminum are a recipe for galling, corrosion, and having to rethread holes. As a general rule, if you're fastening dissimilar metals and there's a chance it needs to come apart again, use anti-seize. Otherwise, use Loctite.

Also sounds like you had an adventure "fixing" the various problems created along the way. This sort of thing is the reason why I have several sets of extractors and a left-hand drill index. Even then, if you break of something hardened (drill bit, or worse a tap), you are lucky to be able to recover anything from the hole.

The proper fix for this, I would venture, is a thread insert. Depending on how large the hole is at this point, you might get by with a Helicoil-type insert, or you might need something more substantial like an E-Z Loc. But if it's functional and you're satisfied, it might be wise to cut your losses and live with the status quo.