Old Model Hammer questions

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Robsauto

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
122
Location
South GA USA
OK, I feel like I am asking the green horn question here, har har answers welcome. I purchased a pile of project and incomplete guns from a shop in VA. One of them is a three screw .357 frame. I have all of the parts except gripframe and hammer. Oh, and of course the barrel and cylinder. Not worried too much about the barrel and cylinder yet, but the hammer...... I cant even find a picture of one, or a repro anywhere. Do I have any options on the table other than ebay? Are there any other SAA's, even copies etc that can be made to work? This is a project, no deadline, just something I've always wanted to build. Oh, and thanks for any advice.
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2002
Messages
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Ohio , U.S.A.
Here is a picture we were sent some time ago from one of the Ruger displays, I appologize to the UNKNOWN source or provider of said picture but here you go it covers just what you need..........

uB6EIObl.jpg



I f any one claims knowledge of who 'se display this was one please let us know so we can let all know,,,great job !!! mine got lost in the "photobucket" collapse of a few years ago,,,,,,,,


weaselmeatgravy ,had a very good comparison picture also,maybe Bob will fill us in... 8)
 

contender

Ruger Guru
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Sep 18, 2002
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Lake Lure NC USA
An excellent display picture.

As for finding a hammer,, they are easily found,, by just placing a WTB ad in the classifieds. A complete internal OM parts kit for the Blackhawks usually run about $125, give or take. Just a hammer will be in the $60-$75 range.
 

Robsauto

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
122
Location
South GA USA
Thanks, I saw your post. I don't need a parts set just a hammer. I'm studying the various options but appreciate your offer. I'd really like to find a newly made hamnwesl I do t have to worry about worn out hooks etc but it looks like that may not be an option. I've gotten spoiled building 1911's.
 

Robsauto

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
122
Location
South GA USA
What are the general thoughts on the parts sets that Ruger installs? The transfer bar part sets? I know that no one wants their original guns converted but my guns not an original, just a project. I can get that whole kit for cheap, just wondering if the trigger pull is adversely affected. Just keeping all the options on the table.
 

Robsauto

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
122
Location
South GA USA
Thank you for that picture, it was very helpful. I found three of these in my parts pile. It appears to be shorter than the Blackhawk hammer. But it does extend high enough to impact the firing pin. My guess is that it won't be heavy enough for reliable ignition. We shall see. In the meantime, it will work for mock up.

6ib76s.jpg
 

Robsauto

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
122
Location
South GA USA
Spent a few minutes today digging through spare parts. Looks like the "too short" hammer may work. The only grip frame I have left is a -RED so I'll have to whittle out one of those little aluminum blocks for the trigger spring. If this hammer works, I believe I'm only short the loading gate. Except for the barrel and cylinder of course. More parts shopping...

2vxqds4.jpg
 

G2

Hunter
Joined
May 8, 2006
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2,489
Location
UT/AZ
Single Six Hammer,,,
in the "day" they were used to lower the thumb, it lowers it to the Super level, however as you can see the nose is shorter than the Blackhawk/ Super Hammer. They do work, just look phunny. :roll:

My suggestion is sell your NM gripframe, and just get a OM frame especially where your in no hurry. Keep in mind you really don't care about the condition of the finish, either strip it or ceracoat it if you want it looking new. A WTB in the classifieds will bring out some offerings in all sorts of condition & relative prices. :wink:

Same goes for your need of a barrel & cylinder even a 9mm cylinder.
 

Robsauto

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
122
Location
South GA USA
Thanks for the advise. I've sold a handful of gripfranes on the sale board, should have known I'd eventually find a project frame... I'll probably work with this one since it's already here. Maybe swap it, who knows.

Thanks for the info on the hammer. I'm going to run it. All of these parts will be refinisheed and the short phunny hammer doesn't bother me. I can't tell the difference anyway. I'm just building a shooter. 9mm cylinder. Hmmm, I do have more 9mm ammo around, that's for sure. (Hi Power shooter also).
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
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8,040
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People's Republik of California
Are you familiar with safety transfer bar retrofit system which includes a new hammer for old models that Ruger does for free? If you send the gun to them you can get a complete refinish for only $80 and it'll be done expertly and look like a brand new Ruger. The frame is not machined so you can swap back to the old action if and when you find a hammer.

Here's how to do it:

Any old model returned to Ruger for any reason will get the transfer bar safety retrofit whether you want it or not, it's their safety policy.

But you WANT to REQUEST the retrofit safety transfer bar system. WHAT????
Yes and here's why:

You WANT to request the retrofit safety transfer bar system because the shipping cost to Ruger is the killer. About $85 for an individual to ship them the gun. Or most local dealers will ship it for you, and it's somewhat less for an FFL to ship it.

So here's what you can do: call Ruger 1 (603) 865-2442 and request a transfer bar safety upgrade which is free INCLUDING shipping both ways. They'll email you a free shipping label. Tell them you want the gun to be refinished while they have it.

Many send their gun without the internal parts because although Ruger will return them, some people want to be sure to get them back. Understand: the gun itself is not modified or machined in any way for the safety retrofit. When you get the gun back in 10 to 12 days at the most, you can just swap out the transfer bar safety parts and put the originals back in. Total cost to you $80.

The re-blue will be done correctly w/o over buffing, etc., and you'll get it back fast. You can't beat their service and refinish, or even come close to it anywhere!

Actually Ruger's reblue jobs are better than original. It's not done by the regular production people who are cranking out new guns as fast as they can. But it is done on the same type machinery though, so all the surfaces have the same polishing techniques and contours as new factory guns; the secret of a restoration vs. a refinish! AND any flaws or sloppiness from the original factory polish is corrected and the gun has the nicest polish of any originals. They all seem to come back with their 'flagship' Super BH best polish.

If the gun is seriously pitted, they may not be able to get them all out if too deep, but they'll do their best.
 

Robsauto

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
122
Location
South GA USA
I am somewhat familiar with the safety parts they install, I actually have some of the hammers. I have not taken that option off the table. I believe I have all the parts now to get it running, except the barrel, cylinder and gate. I'll matte blue it once I get the barrel and cyl worked out. Any idea what they do in regsrds tonthe wrong grip frame installed if you send it in? Also, just to clarify. I'm no gunsmith but I've built many guns and do this as a hobby. 100% correct etc is not the goal, just another fun shooter is. I could go buy any Ruger I wanted but enjoy building as much as shooting.
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
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Messages
8,040
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People's Republik of California
Robsauto said:
I am somewhat familiar with the safety parts they install, I actually have some of the hammers. I have not taken that option off the table. I believe I have all the parts now to get it running, except the barrel, cylinder and gate. I'll matte blue it once I get the barrel and cyl worked out. Any idea what they do in regsrds tonthe wrong grip frame installed if you send it in? Also, just to clarify. I'm no gunsmith but I've built many guns and do this as a hobby. 100% correct etc is not the goal, just another fun shooter is. I could go buy any Ruger I wanted but enjoy building as much as shooting.

The safety parts are known for a hard trigger pull. But not hard to tune up and make a nice action, I've done a few. The advantage is being able to carry all 6 rounds safely. The standard action should never be carried with a 6th round under the hammer.

You may not like the prices but you may want to look at these new made Power Custom hammers:

Bisley hammer for OM full size frame: (must remove hump for standard grip frame): http://powercustom.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=12&sort=20a&page=3
You can grind a little off the top so it's not too tall to use on the OM 357 mid size frames. Model: PC-3SH

Montado hammer large frame, blue or SS: http://powercustom.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=1125
Power Custom Ruger Montado hammer has the loading half cock notch needed for an old model. Just need to grind off the upper flat on the hammer face and slightly enlarge the pivot pin hole to fit the old model hammer screw. There's no safety notch but that's useless as a safety anyway. This would be a simple swap. You can grind a little off the top so it's not too tall to use on the OM 357 mid size frames. It's $130.

GRIP FRAME:
Ruger won't have any OM grip frames to replace it with so they may just leave it. If it's polished alloy and you don't want it powder coated, just send instructions not to refinish it.


I understand where you're coming from about working on guns. I too enjoy doing that as much as shooting them. Here's one of many examples I've done:

I picked up this old boat anchor for $200 to rescue and also make some modifications that I wouldn't do to a nice one in good conscience. It's a 1967 vintage 3 screw Super single six that came out of Florida and was apparently a coup de gras gun on a fishing boat. But the action was original and mechanically sound. These Rugers are truly almost indestructible.

standard.jpg



My objective:
Make a .22 all steel flat top with matching proportion to my OM Flat top 357 to 44 conversion. I never liked the fact that a 4 5/8" barrel on a single six frame does not have as good proportion as a 4 5/8" barrel on the mid frame or balance as well in the hand. This one ended up 4 1/8"

Modifications:
Cut the barrel: mathematically 4 7/16" is equal to the proportion of the mid frame with a 4 5/8". But that would be a cut right thru the ERH screw. So I resorted to 4 1/8".
Also pulled the barrel and turned it ¼ turn so the rollmark is on the side to match the OM FT. This had two more advantages: it keeps the relocated front sight from covering the rollmark and it allowed me to clean up the course machine tool marks on the front face of the frame so typical on OM Rugers. That in turn allowed the extra ¼ turn of the barrel after cutting the barrel from the front end.
Install the NM single six ramp style front sight which with its shorter base improved proportion.
Turn down a steel ERH to match the barrel length.
Adapt NM steel XR3 size grip frame with by-passed lock using a Bearcat mainspring seat to bridge the lock gap and install a Dave Clements adapter wide Bisley trigger. Super SSs weren't made until after the original Colt size XR3 grip frame was eliminated but the XR3s feel perfect on the small frame.
Adapt a NM Bisley hammer by silver soldering on the 3 notches cut from the OM hammer and filing off the nose for the transfer bar. But I have since put the Bisley hammer in another old model project and went back to the standard hammer. But I just obtained and installed a custom hammer with SBH wide spur and that's the best for me.
Flatten the top strap and install an original Ruger steel rear Micro sight.
File out all dings, rust pits and polish the steel frame.

About 3/4 done:
large.jpg


Almost done, just needed a sight screw:
orig.jpg


Finished with sectioned SBH Hammer:

large.jpg
 

Robsauto

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
122
Location
South GA USA
I think I might have just gotten lucky. I found this in a bag of random hammers I have. Look like an old model super Blackhawk hammer?
1z6xsli.jpg
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
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People's Republik of California
Wow, time to buy a lottery ticket while your luck holds out!

Look in the 'bag of triggers' for an old model super BH wide one to fit the wide slot in the new model grip frame you're using:

OM .22 single six with NM steel grip frame and OM super BH wide trigger:

orig.jpg
 

Robsauto

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
122
Location
South GA USA
That triggers is pretty sweet. I've gone through all of my Ruger parts and I haven't seen one like that. Of course, that hammer was in the bulk hammer container and not with the Ruger parts, so who knows. I haven't dug into the trigger tub yet.

I think I have this little bracket done. Waaaayyy too much work... Files and sandpaper.... the hammer kept contacting the top so I had to keep filing...

Tomorrow I'll screw the frames together and put a mainspring in it just so I can see if the action will work.

xfp3qf.jpg
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
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Messages
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People's Republik of California
Well you did a great job! The first is always the hardest.

Now before you put it in the gun, make a tracing of it. You may never make another one, but if you do, it'll be much easier, especially with the tracing.
 

Robsauto

Single-Sixer
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
122
Location
South GA USA
Ok I think that I have hit a snag. The action seems to work fine when assembled, until I put a cylinder in. I borrowed one from my Lipseys flat top (same frame domensions). The cylinder will not rotate at all. The hammer binds just before the latch drops enough. Could this be the wrong pawl? It's the only one I have to try. Thanks...

ek0tud.jpg
 
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